gldnbuddy

Port at the top or bottom, or vertical in middle? Or does it matter?

Should recieve them around the 3rd. I'll post specs. I'm thinking about building a 100% 3/4" plexiglass enclosure so I can add neon. Will that affect sound quality compared to carpeted MDF?

Right now I'm set on a Hifonics BX1208D amp, 1200Wrms @2ohm. I haven't heard bad things about them and I have a credit with the vendor so I can get it for about $100. What did you have in mind. Subs are rated at 600rms.

The first fuse between the batteries is before the wire passes through your firewall, then the second fuse is after the firewall, both within 18" of their respective batteries. Prevents a dead short should you ever get into an accident, or accidentally drill through or pinch through the casing on your wire. Comprende'? Yeah, what this guy said...It does make sense to me! If there's a dead short anywhere on that wire, both fuses will blow! IT'S THE SAME WIRE! Thats good that both fuses blow. If you dont have both fuses and there is a short in the wire somewhere what is keeping the rear battery supplying power to the wire? Sparks will start to occur then fire then bye bye car. Gotcha! But if the truck burns up then I'll get a new truck and a STUPID-loud audio system!

Space is not an issue (Tahoe). But I would rather leave some room in the back. Why do I keep reading that sealed is better. I'm looking for the best of both worlds-Low bass w/ wide freq. range. Is that 4ft^3 one chamber or 2@2? Where do I find proper port size for tuning? Will the sub specs. tell me when I get them? Whats up w/ tubular boxes-any advantages or disadvantages?

The first fuse between the batteries is before the wire passes through your firewall, then the second fuse is after the firewall, both within 18" of their respective batteries. Prevents a dead short should you ever get into an accident, or accidentally drill through or pinch through the casing on your wire. Comprende'? Yeah, what this guy said...It does make sense to me! If there's a dead short anywhere on that wire, both fuses will blow! IT'S THE SAME WIRE!

What happened to that budget? I'm building my first hi-pwr system also and learned quickly if you have a budget, you will be dissapointed at what you can get. 15" IA's are on sale till the 31'st. A good deal!

Got 2-12" Lethal Injections coming. 600W rated rms, they'll be getting 600Wrms ea. @2ohms. Displacement .13. Sealed or ported? Flared or rectangular ports? Internal volume? Two chambers or one? Does port size determine tuning freq.?

If I get a 200A alternator why do I need a battery? How would it be wired? you need the extra batteries to store that energy. Wiring the battery: connect it in parallel with you other battery, + to + & - to -. also it would good to have a fuse at both batteries. for wiring the alternator, a run of 0 gauge from the alternators positive post to the battery's positive (use a fuse). then also use 0 gauge to ground the alt too. Dont wire it like that! just run 1]0 AWG from the front positive terminal, to the positive of the other battery and ground the battery to the chassis. fuses in between. do it like this: chassis ground -----(neg-) front battery +------fuse--------------------------------------------fuse-----+back battery (neg-) -------ground to chassis yea. i was just bein general about how to wire parallel. You have 2 fuses in between the batteries? That doesn't make any sense. The current will not change in between the batteries. By Ohms law a 2300W(peak) system will draw 191A, wouldn't I need 1 200A fuse?

What would be the best enclosure for 2-12" IA Lethal Injections? What's the difference between ported and bandpass? I've seen the response curve of both. The bandpass seems to peak about 35hz and drop about 60hz peaks about 40hz and holds it. What is this telling me? Will the manual for the subs tell me the preferred box dimensions for these.

If I get a 200A alternator why do I need a battery? How would it be wired?

$175 tops for subs. IA Lethal Injections are on sale for $162 I think I'll go with those. Where would I put another battery? Inside my truck!? (Tahoe) Isn't that what the caps are for? Why does it show caps in every car audio diagram then?

Will a 135A alternator do or do I need 200. Whats wrong with the battery(s)? Why is it plural?

That sounds like a feasible suggestion but I was told 12's would be better for me because I listen to more Rock/Pop rather than Rap so 15's have more distance to move to keep up with double bass hits.

OK! How about 2 Kicker CVX12D2 subs 750W. They're $179 new $149 refurb. Thats tops for my budget on subs. Whats wrong with the pre-fab box? I know I'll have to upgrade the alt. I have a Monster 300series 1000W power kit. What size cap should I get. Do I need separate cap for 300W 4ch Alpine amp? What else needs upgraded besides alt?

Amp is 950W @ 2ohm or 1200 @ 1ohm 2 subs in parallel will only be getting about 600W max depending on how I wire them.

The MOFO's are $139 Kicker renewed are $149. I get different answers every time I ask about MOFO's. This is my price range so it's one or the other. (MOFO's are 1ohm coils which makes them more appealing, Kickers are 2ohm) WHAT WOULD YOU DO? Going to power 2 w/Hifonics amp either Brutus 2000W or 2400W in ported Sonic box 3.0^3 ft. Just an average Joe showing off to other avg. Joe's (and their girlfriends-wives-sisters and uh! daughters)

12" Kicker CVX12D2 750W factory renewed or Power Acoustik MOFO-12 1200W(probably overrated) new for same price. Obvously Kickers are better subs, can factory renwewed be trusted for quality and longevity. Don't knnow why they say renewed and not refurbished, that kinda scares me.

I don't have any goals and this is an entry-level system that I want to be better than entry level. I know enough about electronics to be dangerous and that's it. I have money to spend but don't want to get out of control ( this is not for competition ). I'm trying to tweak this plan ( but everyone tells me the stuff I'm thinking about buying is crap!) - vehicle : '01 Tahoe head: Alpine CDE 9874 45X4 already in ( has setable crossovers) door spkrs: Mid price range Alpine (forgot model) already in 4-channel amp: Alpine RP F300 75X4 purchased but not in Mono amp: Hifonics Brutus 2000W not purchased Subs: 2 Power Acoustik MOFO-12 1200W not purchased (wired parallel at 1ohm) enclosure: Sonic ported 3.0^3ft not purchased I listen to old school country (Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings, Willie) LOL No really-Rock,Pop some Eminem/Nelly type rap

Would it sound better to have 1 $300 sub or 2 $150 subs ( 12" powered by 1 950Wrms amp)? Or maybe 2 $150 subs powered by 2 650Wrms amps?

I don't have any goals and this is an entry-level system that I want to be better than entry level. I know enough about electronics to be dangerous and that's it. I have money to spend but don't want to get out of control ( this is not for competition ). I'm trying to tweak this plan ( but everyone tells me the stuff I'm thinking about buying is crap!) - vehicle : '01 Tahoe head: Alpine CDE 9874 45X4 already in ( has setable crossovers) door spkrs: Mid price range Alpine (forgot model) already in 4-channel amp: Alpine RP F300 75X4 purchased but not in Mono amp: Hifonics Brutus 2000W Subs: Power Acoustik MOFO-12 1200W enclosure: Sonic ported 3.0^3ft

Are the preamp sub outs on the head unit low frequency or full range then converted in the mono amp? Excuse my ignorance, I'm as "newbie" as it gets with this stuff. Basically, is there a difference in using them as opposed to line out on the 4-channel amp into the mono?

If my head unit has setable crossovers (Alpine CDE series) would I still want/need one?

Give me some suggestions for WAY better for the money.

I'm building an entry-level system so I probably won't know the difference in sound quality. I Know they're not the best subs but I've heard some good things about them for the money. Don't really want a bigger box-maybe I'll get 2 amps that put out around 650 each (or maybe more if I get mouse-click happy on ebay) Thanks