Julian

Cone area.

Why does it have to be windows? The market is flooded with Android tablets at good prices, what particular program are you trying to run?

Anything over 4GB of ram you will need 64bit, I've been running 64bit for as long as I can remember. I have yet to have any problems with compatibility because you can run it in 32bit compatibility mode for that program. I'd suggest a 64bit operating system because you could later upgrade to 4,8,16, and even 32GB of ram. I presently have a similar setup on my laptop Win 7 Quad I7 and 8GB of ram with 2GB of video ram and it's speed as all get out.

nice. not to far.. what kind of system do you have ?? haha thanks bro... ya the more i think about it the more i wanna do a wall.. just gotta get a good design We should get a few local guys together and get something going next weekend! I wanna see this build!

I personally have nothing but good things to say about DC Power, like TireFryr said

Starter issues?

They have a huge range in terms of electric cars. 4.5s 0-60 top speed of 130 mph 160-300mi range I mean.. if you can afford it.. by all means its probably one of the best electrics out there. 62 Mi/hr charging time.. I mean.. I'd buy one as a DD seeing how i don't do a lot of mileage especially since electricity is so cheap. I can drive 350 miles in my E55, stop at a gas station, fill it up with gasoline in less than 5 minutes, go another 350 miles, fill it up with gasoline in less than 5 minutes, go another 350 miles, fill it up with gasoline in less than 5 minutes, go another 350 miles, etc. Can you do that with an electric? No? Therefore: Zero compromises? What a fucking joke. You're totally right, But eh.. in terms of electrical cars they're about the best IMO. Would it fit my life style? probably, I rarely if ever travel more than 300 mi in a single day.

Also you can either plug it in a 240v or 120v wall outlet.

They have a huge range in terms of electric cars. 4.5s 0-60 top speed of 130 mph 160-300mi range I mean.. if you can afford it.. by all means its probably one of the best electrics out there. 62 Mi/hr charging time.. I mean.. I'd buy one as a DD seeing how i don't do a lot of mileage especially since electricity is so cheap.

Well, of course..

touche.. a wall.. in a car.. with subwoofers.. and amplifiers...

You're about 2 hours of me and i'm in need of some experience with building.

can't forget hookers.

That answer is a yes. Hey Topgun.. you know anything about building walls? lol

too many monitors top//

Interior is ugly IMO especially with all the monitors.

Interior is ugly IMO

Shock Top is my drink of choice currently

Start out with brazing, then move on to stick/arc, then move to MIG. I would get on some welding forums. You're either good at it or you're not. There's no such thing as a mediocre welder. Thanks, I'm going to look into a cheap arc welder from HF and go from there.

We can detect changes in amplitude much less than 3db. Under the most commonly cited test conditions we can detect a change in amplitude of 1db. That said I'm not disagreeing with your premise.....small changes in amplifier power are not worth worrying about. Is that over all frequencies? Because (personally) I could not tell the difference between 137 dB and 140 dB in the low end range. He used the word changes, not absolute. Interesting, i thought i was going to get eaten up for my math up there

We can detect changes in amplitude much less than 3db. Under the most commonly cited test conditions we can detect a change in amplitude of 1db. That said I'm not disagreeing with your premise.....small changes in amplifier power are not worth worrying about. Is that over all frequencies? Because (personally) I could not tell the difference between 137 dB and 140 dB in the low end range.

Alright, we'll do a little math here Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v. So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps 13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w. So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v 12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output. and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario? The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever. SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range. Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

So... you expect to see 14.4v at all times when running an amplifier? Also 1% THD is inaudiable especially at sub bass frequencies, I don't recall how much to go up to hear it.. but its a lot..