bassahaulic

There really isn't. lol This is my shops truck that I built. Build as in design, build and fabricate all on your own or just build? I copied Scott's over all layout of the 6 subs on one side, then designed it around my power level and desired performance. Then my boss and I spent about 2 weeks building everything while still running the shop. 158.3@54Hz 157.8@45Hz 155.9@30Hz 154.2@20Hz

Thanks man. lol Usually you're right, SPL is ugly, most guys don't care anymore what it looks like. Which is beyond me. Even my personal car has everything setup half decent looking.

You should be fine as long as you keep the signal clean.

There really isn't. lol This is my shops truck that I built.

I'm not sure if I've made a log for this or not, but here we go. We have here my shops 1994 Isuzu Pick up truck. Old system, 12 db Drive K9 10"s on 3 db Drive A73500's. Metered 157's at 54Hz and honestly sounded like doodoo. Here we have the first quick sketch I did after seeing Scott Bowemans truck in a video. Picking up the first 1/2 of the birch plywood we needed for the build. We jump forward a bit here to half way with the box. 1/4" Steel angle iron to hold the baffle in place and help keep box together. We have the baffle in. Sealed with wood glue, then silicon over the metal and all seams. Wires for the subs ran and cleaned up a little. Bolts for the wire to go into the wall, sealed with silicon on the inside. Sitting in place. being sat on. lol Wired all three of the Rockford-Fosgate T2500bdCP's real fast to get a basic idea of how the truck will do. All subs in and angle iron brace done. Not seal off yet. We had a booboo during testing when the budlight started flowing. Got the amps all mounted up in their final locations. Added the lighting in the wall after we sealed it all up and made it pretty. They can be any color we choose, these are the two I like most. And then boom, dual 350amp alts, 4 runs of 1/0, and a isolator for the truck so it has no clue what's going on. lol Here are some videos of this thing doing work. Two Step mega C&S And of COURSE, the windshield breaking!!

God that thing looks nasty!!! I think I might post some video's of my shops little beast now. lol

So from what I'm being told, there is no difference at all how the coils use the power going from series to parallel? None at all?

Wait till one dies though, and it will, you'll see the companies true colors. It happens over, and over, and over again. The exact same thing.

It isn't that. People get annoyed (including myself) when missinformation is posted and it is justified under the "well lets test and find out" banner. Not only does it misslead people, but it drags down this site. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with creative design, but making things up (like most of the "transmission line" enclosures, "I need clean power class D amps" and "The RMS of subwoofer is how much power it needs" for instance) doesn't help anyone and just perpetuates ignorance... Well I'm sorry you feel I'm dragging down the site by questioning something like this.

Far from thousands of people are waiting to see what happens with your build. Lets be honest here. I'm sure some people are sitting, waiting, crying until it happens, but not that many.

Very sweet man! You will find there are but a few of us on here who go for the big bass. lol Most keep to smaller, amazing sounding installs. I understand, just never really posted on here, and got tired of all the b/s on the other forums Oh ok. We try to stay reasonable, civil, and helpful.

Just to give some more information, they are Morel Maximo's with a Pioneer PRS-800 as the EQ, Crossover, and T/A controller.

Very sweet man! You will find there are but a few of us on here who go for the big bass. lol Most keep to smaller, amazing sounding installs.

I will be building some custom tweeter pods for my new Morel tweeters that are coming, I was wondering if someone with a lot of experience can tell me some of the better directions to aim them. I'm looking for good staging, and good response. Any help will be much appreciated.

Very nice! Any numbers?

Ok, check this out. I'm going to need everyone to CALM DOWN. Jesus Christ, it's like I said Obama is a swell guy or something shit.

Well the Type X's have an un-winding coil and the Morel's seem pretty high quality. So we will see. And it's finally my chance to fiberglass some A-Pillars.

I won a set of Morel Components in a Facebook contest! I can't wait to get them in to replace the Type X mids and stock PT tweets still in the dash. They should go well with the PRS and C5b. http://www.morelhifi.com/car-audio/maximo

Well, we shall see. I might probably see an SPL gain simply from having the amps not strapped together so the starting ohm load is lowered over all, which I could easily attest to changing the wiring. But I know that there are a lot of variables.

As I have said twice now, the amount amperage and voltage being outputted from the amplifiers will not be changed just how the coils distribute everything is supposedly changed. We will see if anything happens with this, if so good. If not oh well, maybe at least they will stay cooler while I play.

Have you tried it ? Soon as my new re-cone arrives I will be testing the theory.

From what I understood it had nothing to do with changing what amps/volts the amplifier produced, which I know cannot change, it had to do with how the coils distributed the power between the two.

Welcome back to the game.

As it sits, it will be there will now be NO series wiring at all. Previously, each sub was Dual 1 coils wired series to 2ohm, then paralleled at the amps, which we're strapped together @1ohm, putting each amp at a final 1ohm. Now, each sub will be on it's own amp with the Dual 1 coils paralleled into the amplifier at .5ohm. Ed Lester did such a good job breaking down the math as to why it's less amps over the coils in parallel then it is in series, seemed legit.

I watched this and thought what he said made perfect sense.