CBFryman

I normally dont like to fight at all...untill it comes to pucking up nice cars and guys hitting girls.

If I had a car as nice as yours I would have jumped between the two, punched out his back glass (or damn near tried) and then when he got out decked him with my non broken hand. If he backed into me I would have sued his as wether or not I was injured. Local dude got a 5,000 settlement because a car hit him and just knocked him down, gave him a charlie horse, and that is about it. Kinda chitty in that case but if he had already hit my car that kind of stuff is fair game IMO. Oh, I love steel bumpers too, just cant hit things going too fast...that is when you need a brush gard. Been looking for a low profile/cheap one but thoes two dont seem to go togather on my truck.

Sweet, my friend's dad from back in orlando is a big drum guy. Had a room probablt 10x8 filled with just his drum set, a guitar amp, and a tiny bit of sitting and standing room. Probably had three times that many drums...I'd hate to see how much he paid for all that. Anyway, Nice pick up mang.

same difference.

Well, I'm out. 70% sure anyway. Rotor couldnt be turned without liability issues. Rotors for my truck aint cheap.

We eliminated everything fule from it. We replaced the filter and checked fule pressure, all good. It's down to the ignition or transmission.

FYI, there has been, and never will be, a truely warped rotor. If you dont beleive me google what a "warped" rotor actually is. Bad news, It cant be turned. It can but they wont, liability. The guy at NAPA that quoted me 40 something dollars for a new rotor was an idiot and quoted me for the B2000 with coil springs. I have torsions and mine is $68...for that I can get drilled rotors from Summit. If it comes down to it I will buy drilled rotors for like a nextra $4. I went ahead and had him turn the good rotor to the same thickness as the bad rotor incase I wanted to reuse them. I've got to talk this over with my dad.

Looking at the picture I just had an idea.

Yeah, tell me about it. You have to completely dissassemble the bearings to get the rotor off. The hub is basically a part of the rotor. Probably why new rotors are so damn expensive.

I took some pictures as I took apart the front hubs today and now I am fighting with the inner baring (sp). At this rate they wont make it to the machine shop today. In the dark you can hardly tell the difference, give them some sun and there is a deffanit difference. They got covvered in greese agian when I was fighting to get the inner bearing out with no luck.

LMAO

The power steering pump in my truck wines like a bisnatch, especailly when I get near the locks.

What's funny about that chris craft is each engine had its own independant electrical system and there was no way to jump them past manually doing it. Pretty ghey in my opinion.

I apologise for my lateness in posting my test results. I havent had time to type them and with my truck brakeing they will be delayed a few days.

PE 240w amp for power tap, 4'x8' wind screen and a C-Weighted Cheap dB meter. Not the best in the world.

I'm going to see how my account looks. I'm still replacing the bearings and I already got me some fancy brake pads. I've got a few pay checks between now and then so I will get a quote and aim to hop on by mid september.

and spark plugs didnt solve the problem on her car. It idles smoother but that is about it. All of her old plugs looked good but two where out of gap so I fixed that. No sparks in the dark either. Next I'm going to check to make sure the distributor is in working order (she just had it replaced) and I'm going to figure out how to drain some of the tranny fluid. She has well over an inch above the "Full Max" mark on the dip stick. If that doesnt fix it I'm done with the car and she can take it back to the mechanic.

It would be $10 per if I didnt have the hook up. The rotar is rather thick so I dont think it will be much of a problem. Turns out you CAN see them in the light, when I cleaned them it was about 8:00 (getting dusk) and the garrage lights are less than desireable. In the sun today you can see them. I dont think there will be a problem turning them and for free, why not? I paid $45 for pads, top of the line at Discount Autoparts. Made sure they had shims. I'm going to rebleed the break system and check the calipers so that this doesnt happen agian. Jiffy installed the pad crooked and the caliper was not properly adjusted to have even clamping force on both sides of the rotar. Turns out I have 1/4" of pad on one side and none on half of the other and just a tad on the other half. Jiffy FTL. I'm really not looking forward to repacking my bearings.

It turns out the caliper was the culprit. Jiffy didnt reinstall it correctly and only the outside pad was giving any clamping force. All of my other pads where ~1/4". The new pads I got where $45 and getting them turned for free is better than even junk yard roters. The grooves are not deep deep. Luckily I caught this quickly. I would say that are about 1/16th. You cant see them now that I cleaned the roter, only feel it when you run your finger over it. My dad is going to have me get them turned anyway, I have no say in the matter. He wa a mechanic for 5 years before the navy and 5 years in the navy so I trust him.

I could do it for $125 +tax. $200 was on summit.

I'll give that a try if plugs dont fix it. Plugs are like $3 each and she only has 4. I'm sure they are getting close to due anyway. I solved my trucks problem. I took the wheel off and ran my finger over the rotar, Ive got two or three gouges. I had my dad take a look at it and he says it was from the rivets in the pad and that the pads are cheapie POS (tall rivets and no squaling shims). He says they should be able to be turned. I called down to my friend's dad's machien shop and he said he'll do it for free, I just need to drop them off tomarrow. So today after practice I get to take apart my bearings. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the bearings while im down there and when I get the rotars back I'm going to get some high quality pads. No $20 Jiffy Lube chit balls. I even found the record of the last brake change, a mere 18,000 miles ago at Jiffy Lube. Oil Change, Chassis Lube, and Brake Pads $55 special...I'm going to pay that much just for pads.

junkyard ftw. over here we have shops that buy cars damaged in accidents and take them apart to sell them for parts. try to find a similar car and take the rotors off. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Good Idea. I can also get these resurfaced if they arent to bad. I have the hook up at a machine shop.

Its the FRONT right brake. I have drum rear brakes. It happends below 20mph, mostly when brakeing but slightly when costing. Now that I think about it I dont hear it in reverse...ill double check that today. I've yet to change the pads on the truck but I've only put 10,000 miles on it. Last time I changed my oil thickness was above above 1/4" and they where both evely worn. I was planning on changing them with my next oil change.

I would jump in on this had my brakes not just gone to hell and back.

and new pads and rotars is going to cost me $200.