CBFryman

Well i found my dads multimeter that can measure AC current...the screen was crushed...so off to radioshack i go since im not in the position to buy a clamp meter. here is the results of my impedance testing. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBF...18impedance.jpg and for thoes that DONT exactly understand how to hook it all up it goes a little somthing like this http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/vac.bmp btw, wtf denim? image tags no longer allowed on this board?

big difference between a $30 lowes multi meter and a $100 fluke clamp on multimeter and heh as no use for such a tool and my parents dont buy me anything... so sorry if your cutdown didnt work too well

repwnzjoo foos... lol IMO you should make it exactly 18" tall and compensate for the depth...looks clean that way with no step down from the seat......

the12volts.com has been a good help while planing out my security system...but the form sucks.

DIYaudio.com DDaudio.com and if anyone could find all the papers Dan Wiggins has written on adires new website...i dont feel like looking.

3 of them are like 1.40 at autozone....

Question: For low volume charting, why couldnt you just connect one voltmeter to the amp terminals to measure line voltage and one ampmeter in to the circut? and just makesure you dont go over 10a which is hte maximum for most multimeters. or would the amp meter cause too much of its own impeadance? I have too many multimeters to handle (between my dad and i) but none are clamp and i dont feel like fooling with that formula with the 10ohm non inductive resistor. and if i could do this i wouldnt even have to take the driver out of the enclosure to connect anything...wich would also be a plus. i dont know if this has already been answeared but i am at work and dont feel like taking the time to read 8 pages (7 because i already read the first stuff of course)

may have been, the one on woofervids.com. im working on getting the impeadance charted but now my main project is the security system and getting the enclosure bolted down.

Reset the gains today and put a pice of blue tape on the dust cap, still isnt moving near full xmax, even at 25Hz...but this thing is a low end beast... looking out any of the mirrors on anything below 50Hz is impossible (60 on the inside rear view). at around 30Hz the vibration beings to move the inside rearview out of place instead of back and forth, rear windsheild ism oving a bit the roof has stoped flexing as much (dome light is still moving). maybe it was my imagineation. yesterday. 25Hz, with the gains reset and the bass knob all the way up, the jelly in my eyes goes wave like so (lol) yet audible output is very slim. gear selector (which is in neutral) vibrates eraticly if the door is opened...still havent checked if i could do a little bit of the hair trick though i imagine i will be able to at around 28Hz where maximum cabing pressure with the window cracked feels to be at. still isnt hurting my ears, probably because there is no distortion to speak of. i know output is being cut back by my head unit because the dash vibrates quite a bit. it probably thinks it is going down a really bumpy road. its startin to rain so i had to stop playing and i think i may be starting to piss the neighbors off. so no pron. tomarrow i will do a few tones at 28Hz with door loosely latched to see if i canget the door to move, though i dont think i will. on the song at the end of the funkypup destructo vid...omy the lower note of the beat feels like getting sholdertackled by a sweeper twice your size (soccer) over and over when sitting right infront of the driver. well im on the look out for a good 100wx2@4ohm amp on ebay. even with the bass knob down there is a gap between 70 and 100Hz and if amping these componets my next step will be either Ascendants 6.5's or thoes 6/5's that look like a fire place that are still in prototype stage. my ears feel like they are full of warm water now and ive just been in from it a few minutes. voltage drops now and the dome light drops then recovers right when you hit a tone. now that i think of it, the pain from my friends setup may have been from distortion and higher frequincies... the main discomfort with this is on the low lows with breathing. i cant wait untill i actually get my licence (next tuesday) to go get it metered on the AC.... its gonna be weird burping at like 30Hz...lol but that is the consequince of having such a low Fs (half that of the XXX18). i tried a12.5Hz tone but there is no way to turn off the subsonic and it is set to 15Hz... but on "bass i love you" this thing does move...a good inch or so. well the pizza man is here...g2g

want to know a good grommet for 4ga? get a windsheild wiper bushing and remove the metal inserts then take a razor and widen the gap so it will fit through your firewall.... its neoprene (sp) so its more resistant to oil/grease/gasoline/brake fluid than an old rubber gasketand its very thick...once you get it in (kinda a pain) it wont pop out most of the time like your normal grommets. i dont know if its the same with the mustangs but my truck it was a pain in the arse to find a place to run the power cable (probably is since you had to run it in the wheel well) and when doing an install in a friends focus hatch it was the same way...same thing with a Mazda MX-6...ford must hate stereo/security installers or something.

3ohm isnt uncommon...

it is wired to 1ohm, dumbass... someone wasnt paying attention. "assumeing an impedanct rise to around 3ohm" well impedance for a 1ohm nomimal is benched by Loyd L at 2.67ohm....go figure. tomarrow im going to raise the voltage to 43v (900w into 2ohm impedance around 700w with a 2.67 impedance)

im short, i can still lean back the seat i just had it leaned forward for the ghetto grille shot. im only 5'5'' and i like to be where i have just a bit of bend in my elbow but with my butt close enough so i can completely press the clutch with still good bend in my knee... and so little wattz because im making sure this ghetto RCA setup is gonna work.

OMG!!! this thing is INSANE! i have the gains so so extremely conservative. only to aprox 30v asumeing an impeadance rise to around 3ohms im only getting 300-400w. and my roof is "only" flexing 1/4-1/2"....my dome light is "only" moving 1/16th (or so). not too many rattles but it hasnt gotten very loud yet either. the main test song has been "push that" but little john. no rock yet (im still amazed with its loudness wiht only 300-400w). it is overpowering my componets like they are nothing. speaking is impossible. and in the low lows (30Hz area, near tuning) the pressure changes are starting to take effect (as far as the funny breathing). not the loudest ive been in but deffanitly the loudest with such minimal wattage. already nearly as loud as the "157" set up my friend has (4 JL w1v2 12's with 500w) the only thing lacking is the little hurt of the ears when unprotected. the cone is just beinging to move, hasnt gone below tuning yet. its only moving 1/2" right now (or maybe more...the cone is so large it makes movement seem smaller and with no refereny logo because the CF blends with itsself) like i said, the truck doesnt rattle very much at all. none to be heard inside except on the VERY low/loud notes. and distortion is minimal besides what the stock headunit is giving. to even really hear my componets i have to turn my bass knob half way down which is -9dB. but, i need to get an amp for my componets now and high pass them at around 50-60Hz. well enough talking here are some installed pics excuse the ghetto grille... function before form

you actually want louder than an Ava18 for daily? are you insane or something? anyway. I'd put my money on the MT as far as loudness is concerned but if i where you id get the Rl-P's so you'll sound good too...

ehh....audiobahns are for my room. if the atlas 15's wernt sold out id get one but oh well..these will have to do for a while. and the drill never even touched the cone the plastic was puled tight from the weight of the sub.

goddamn....photobucket makes the images too small. on my computer it was like 1000 pixles by 1000 pixles...

it was like 2-3 months ago, whoever was making the 18" naskets went out of business or some BS... deNim...sorry

it cures faster that way (it may be water activated i dont know. moisture in the air does fine on my hands whne i use it. i only use it for screwless stuff) but its just like unactivated greatstuff....when yo uget it wet it cures/expands faster than not. which is why when using greatstuff its a good idea to lightly soak (more than a mist but not drench) it and the surrounding area with water. as for geting it off. some will come off with sand paper but the rest...just has to wear off over the course of a few weeks.

kool, i know what you mean. ive been to Orlando 4 times in the past 2 1/2months.... well i got you to post. this form is the best on the net IMO. the information source of SIN with the laibackyness of....well i dont know another bord that is as laid back as here....so you picked a good assistant admin or w/e denim is

All this is teh gay....

yes, we smoke lotes of purple haze and listen to bob marley while roller skating naked through the cross walks eating fruit cake... welcome... just dont announce to them that you are coming over here. i like this place how it is and i dont want it to turn into CA or SIN

ya i tried slugging the box before i went, but i couldn't find anything to take up enough room, to really make a difference. so i got in there w/ a tire iron and ripped out about 6-7" port. hoping that the little bit of calculation i did in my head was right. i was at 6ft@31Hz so i guessed at 6.5ft. but i ploted the impedance afterwards to get a tuning of 34-36Hz. i plan on redoing the box w/ more port tuned higher. and a second battery. i do wanna get a second ega1400d... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> around 35Hz should give you a good jump on the TL over 27Hz...what was your peak frequincy with the 143?

you dont even have the super class D like us cool kids

FC? im conpoosed