CBFryman

my papa has a table saw that you can lay whole 4x8 sheets on and slide them without having to use thoes gay/unstable roller things. And he has a router table the size of my truck bed. He also has a 13x6ft assembely table and a belt sander thing that has its own table and a 2ftx4ft 5 level shelving system full of all different types of glues and adheaives. his woodshop > All thoes are just the finer points. He also has all of the standard equptment.

yellow top OTW and only $15 came out of my pocket

my dad broke my B&D so i use his skill

co-ax, sorry

BUY.com cant get their chit straight so the girl wont be getting the pioneer REV's kickers componets better than the type s's?

i dont think she would understand that either. She also couldnt understand why i wanted an MD2 for SPL.

the yellow top exceeds my current battery in every single spec including instantanious current and absolutely pwnz it in RC

$50 walmart does like 500cca yellow top D34 does 650 if i rememeber correctly. and the RC on it is like 120min, walmart is like 70min and autozone here doesnt sell optima, discount autoparts wants 205 after taxes.

ok

Honda NSX... That is who the NSX is "made by" everywhere else but the US and close contries. and the B-Series was never used in a USA honda, correct, but it can easily be transplanted into almost any honda.

ummm, when am i going to get that port end?

ok me: Mom, i want to order my yellow top tonight. Jegs has it for $183 shipped Mom: i cant beleive you are spending all of that money on a battery, why cant you just get a $50 walmart battery? Me: Because this is deepcycle, its sealed, and it isnt phased by vibration Her: my battery works just fine and so does the one you have Me: But they dont put out near the cranking amps and they dont have near the reserve capasity and they arent sealed or as vibration resistant. Her: i dont see how that battery is any different than any other Me: ok here ill draw you two diagrams on how each battery works, conventional deep cycle and Optima deep cycle. *draws picture on napkin in texas road house* Her: That doesnt make any sence.

freaking A, why cant women understand batteries?

cus MT's PWN all.

too bad Acura is made by honda and Acura is honda everywhere else in the freaking world except america where an econobox company cant make a nice car unless the econobox company owns the company that makes the nice car. same thing with lexus/toyota

reguardless, 4 people in my buddies CRX when he had itmade it go from quick to mediocure with a B16...and the suspension squated. That was probably~650lbs and he had stiffer suspension than stock.

Its a trailor queen...and you forgot...each of the kenetiks are 75lbs Thats 300lbs just in batteries <{POST_SNAPBACK}> ok so here is the tally 300lbs in battery 120lbs in woofage probably 160lbs in enclosure 20lbs in ampage another 20lbs in wire and 200lbs in operator. I bet that CRX wasnt born thinking it would carry 820lbs of stuff.

You are going over my head my man...I get the idea of what you are saying. Any version Civic/CRX motor will fit in any of the same bay. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Well any CRX/Civic/DelSol/Integra/really anything honda, but you have the idea. Rebuild the carb and play with the timing, if that doesnt get 'er running i say stop by a local salvage yard and find an integra and steal its engine. There are probably 100+ B18 to CRX swap walk throughs on the net.

Jntar, you know you want a B-series in your SPL beater...gonna need it when you put 2 MT 15's in there your old 55horse carburated engine aint gonna be loving life.

and i reccomended the B-series because they are pretty much the honda universal block (doesnt take much modification to fit a b-series into an A,C,D,E,F engine bay...probably easy to drop into an H enigne bay but why would you want a B-series in an H bay) with lots of power for such small cars. They are also very easy to tune as long as you have a working EMS which can be bought really cheap and are quite prevelant (at least around here).

wasnt saying use one type R....i was saying they are that easy to get loud as phuck in. We where dabbleing in the 150 realm with little knowledge of what we where doing with a crappy battery and crappy power. i want to see you touching 160's with that type of equiptment

If youve done anywork on any honda working on another honda is exactly the same. If youve done one honda/acura build youve done them all. jack a B-sereis block and drop it in there and let 'er scoot. Hell, a single Type-R 12 in a 6th order bandpass in one of thoes things got loud enough to tickle my noise. two DD 3512's where deathly loud.

had that happen in my old car never fixed it...just stuck a pen in it and left it that way <{POST_SNAPBACK}> it's my driver's window, and i hate driving with the windows up <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Though i enjoy driving with my window down ive found that when cruising long distances over 50-55 its best to run the AC on low. But how does eDead get gooed up in your window? was it mat or the liquid stuff? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> mat heat = melted tar melted tar = eDead falls off panel and lands on window eDead gets stuck at top edge of outer door panel and adheres itself to the window <{POST_SNAPBACK}> ohh, bad. Not fun either. I havent had any problems with my second skin though. I did some research and when i found damplifier withstands the most heat out of any other dampening product and it was cheaper than Dynamat and alot others with better dampening properties than brown bread and almost as cheap i went ahead and bought 80sq feet. now i have like 20sq feet lying around and im trying to decide where to do it. Anyway, best of luck to you.

had that happen in my old car never fixed it...just stuck a pen in it and left it that way <{POST_SNAPBACK}> it's my driver's window, and i hate driving with the windows up <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Though i enjoy driving with my window down ive found that when cruising long distances over 50-55 its best to run the AC on low. But how does eDead get gooed up in your window? was it mat or the liquid stuff?

x2 she dumped you, dont talk to her.