c0smo kram3r

He will randomly make the options free for different subs. One time it'll be a Q, then next time it might be the BL. It's nice to mix things up, eh?

Well. If you are not going to be installing the subs, then I would DEFINITELY not trust you with 5k to each sub. Might as well order a recone kit or two.

They are both made by the same people and use the same boards I believe.

Why not get a bigger amp? That amp would be good for one, but two?

Have you already purchased these amps? Look at: DC Sound Lab LV5 Fi BTL Incriminator Audio (Death Penalty series & Warden series when released) New SMD sub when it is released... so many more... Why do you have to wait 103 days to buy these subs?

Why is a IA DP out of the question? They are exceptional subs. You also have DC LV5s to look at. There's A BUNCH of subs out there that can compete with the BTL. The BTL is still amazing though.

How about a single Incriminator Audio, Death Penalty 21". That would be a good matchup with your Kicker amp.

I "THINK" the BTLs should still be louder b/c they are more efficient? Don't hold me to that. Why not sell that amp and get a new one?

scroll down on main forum page...lol It hasn't been released yet (mid May is the ETA I believe.) Get in touch with "sundownz". He should be able to help you out the most.

Oh, it's a 2004 Land Rover Discovery II SE7. I was a little off as well. Excessive Amperage wants $430 for a 220A alt Dominick (Iraggi) wants $440 for a 220A alt DC Power wants $490 for a custom GM 250A alt & he would have to build a custom bracket. and yes, Leister, that would up my total to $2100. Out of my budget as of now. Might be able to get one later on in the summer but not as of now. Especially if I don't necessarily need one.

well that's what it would cost...

lol I know for now. The reason I was considering 2/0, was in case I ever go bigger. Have a run of 2/0 to the rear & use 1/0 for everything else in the rear. @fis10, a 220A alt is about $500 for my car. That's kind of out of my budget for now.

I'm not running 2guage. I'm talking about running 2/0. Two totally different things...

bu-bu-bu-bump

you want the fuse 12" closer to the battery. Not the amp. If the cable is exposed and wires are shown, well get ready for a fire show. Get it closer to the battery IMO.

Well, I'm going to be running a AQ2200D (as some of you may know) to power a IA DP 21". Now I'm having some worries about my electrical system. These are my plans: STOCK ALT. It's a 150A Bosch alt. (Possibly 130A, but I'm pretty sure 150.) either 1/0 or 2/0 wiring all the way around. Positive & negative run to the front. (I know bigger is better, but do I need 2/0?) (1) Deka 9A31 in the rear. (Would go PM, but that's out of my budget. Plus, I can't justify spending that much on a single battery when I can get two Dekas for the same price, even though the PMs are better.) That's my starting plans. If this does not work out, I'm going to throw another Deka 9A31 under the hood or maybe in the rear. I know I can fit it under the hood (already measured), but I might just keep stock and isolate it and have both in rear for amp only. Suggestions are welcome. I want to get my power cable from coppercableman on eBay (Trystar cable). How flexible is this stuff? Well yeah, that's about it.

I don't want to sound rude or anything but everything you just said was wrong lol. I still have diff lock (center only, but that's what all LRs have regardless of the years), Hi & Low, and I can lift it with ease. The 2004 is actually the best Discovery II offroad wise. Not the h-gear setup, and a stock classic can outwheel the d2. I would know, we own 3 defender 110s, 2 range rover classics, and tons of series vehicles, and i have worked on plenty d1s, d2s. Im not too much of a fan of them. And you lock the tcase, but not diffs. Its not a complete lock. In fact, I don't think it locks at all. I go offroading with the Virginia Land Rover Owners Club every year. And i am building the other classic right after im done with the current one. ANd yes you can get lifts to just about how high you want them from various Rove dealers, just installing the lift is a major pain in the ass due to all the unneeded electrical. Oh, I never said that Classics weren't good. They are amazing off road and ride amazing while doing it. I just prefer the discos over the RR unless you bobtail them. Plus, it is VERY hard to find a good classic these days. I only found one w/ 60k miles & it was $16k. But to each his own...

but testing requires money..... lol

I KNOW this. It's locks the transfer case, not the differential. This makes where the back & front get equal power. This is how all Discoverys/Range Rovers/LR3s are. I think the Defenders are the same way but I have never got the opportunity to play with one. How is it in the muds? don't know really haha. I think these shine more in technical stuff rather than going deep. Eh in mud, NOTHING can beat plain 'ol locking diffs. I have a '07 Yamaha Big Bear & it puts all of my friends' Hondas to shame(In mud & pulling wise). This is b/c Honda uses 'Traxlok" which takes at least 3 tire rotations to kick in and then you're already stuck. With the Yamaha, I just lock in all the diffs and go. God I love this four wheeler. I pulled a friend's Ford Expedition out of mud with it. Of course, it had some help from my Warn 2500lb winch . I had an 04 Big Bear with 2 inch lift and tractor tires....... It is teh beast. yes. yes, they are. The newer models only get better w/ the independent and what not. I've pulled some HEAVY stuff with mine. The solid axle in rear though is better for pulling. Plus I love the fact that it's carb & not EFI. That saved me ALOT of time when I sunk 'er. She's still running strong though. @ denim, the AQ should still put out more power than teh Sundown at relatively the same price. Right? Don't get me wrong though, we all know how amazing Sundown is. Would that extra power, make a large diff. in loudness?

can't afford them ... Any upgrades, I must pay for. Do you figure I'd tell a good difference b/t a Sundown 1500D & the AQ amp? The only way I could afford the Sundown, is a refurb which I'm fine with.

Budget? For those subs, a pair of AQ 2200Ds would work out nicely. EDIT: nvm...I thought these were for a car lol.

well thats great to hear and ive honestly never heard of sundown...all ive ever heard of is jl,kicker,mtx,etc...the popular. i had never heard of fi until recently. then looked on youtube and realized how much of a BEAST they are..lol thats what made me wanna get two of em..i originally was gonna get 2 mojo's. but i want the best who said BTLs are the best

After hearing that question along with your others, are you sure you're ready to invest in this kind of setup? What I've always heard: If you don't know what it takes to run it, then don't run it. I have heard/seen that from a lot of people. BTW, I'm not saying I know a chit load...far from it really.

I KNOW this. It's locks the transfer case, not the differential. This makes where the back & front get equal power. This is how all Discoverys/Range Rovers/LR3s are. I think the Defenders are the same way but I have never got the opportunity to play with one. How is it in the muds? don't know really haha. I think these shine more in technical stuff rather than going deep. Eh in mud, NOTHING can beat plain 'ol locking diffs. I have a '07 Yamaha Big Bear & it puts all of my friends' Hondas to shame(In mud & pulling wise). This is b/c Honda uses 'Traxlok" which takes at least 3 tire rotations to kick in and then you're already stuck. With the Yamaha, I just lock in all the diffs and go. God I love this four wheeler. I pulled a friend's Ford Expedition out of mud with it. Of course, it had some help from my Warn 2500lb winch .

I KNOW this. It's locks the transfer case, not the differential. This makes where the back & front get equal power. This is how all Discoverys/Range Rovers/LR3s are. I think the Defenders are the same way but I have never got the opportunity to play with one.