audiolife

I would do the big 3 before I did anything. IMO that should be part of amplifier installation.

If you have the electrical most people I know who have ran both say the RF puts out more power (going of of last years models bigger amps) Asking which one runs better crippled by a weaker electrical would lend my thought process to suggest running a smaller amp if you are worried about having juice.

My friend has the kicker 5 channel on the same subs and it hits pretty good for what it is....I would make sure your phase is correct on your subs or make sure your box is ok. His box is a prefab subthump box.

The smart power supplies are a constant voltage powr supply. The 45 amp would work fine but if you mix different sized batteries you should charge them individually. For practical uses I would lean more towards their inteligent charger (35 amp as you put it). A high output alt should be put in however and use the charger to keep the batteries maintained..it is a handy item to have to maintain all of your 12v car batteries.

I would go smaller and make the only thing that can be seen without removing panels is the subs. Use the lil stealth amps and frame them in neatly and pay attention to detail.

http://www.yourautotrim.com/autbodclot.html Lots of cover materials here

If you have a tight area you can use 4 or 5 smaller powercells like a kinetik hc600. You could even make a step to hide the battery because most agm cells can be laid on their side.

I would get a high output alt of at least 200 amps and a larger battery in back. A group 27 (Kinetik HC2000, Odyssey pc1750)or a group 31 (Odyssey pc2150, Kinetik HC2400, Optima D31).

To run 16v your alt would need an adjustable regulator and or need step up modules, step down modules or multiple kinetik 16v cells to help run the 12v for the car. 0 ga in your big 3 would at least help in simplifying the wire job. Unless you are looking to gain every tenth of a db you can I would stay at 12v. For the cost difference you could simply just move up in amplifier power to get the same result as the 16v and save money.

I heard about a marine dual bank battery charger that I was gonna get from a dude at a local audio shop, would those charge both batteries equally if not then I wont waste the money on getting one. Thanks Depends what it is designed for. If it is not designed for agm batteries and you are charging agm batteries I wouldn't do it.

a 12v battery has 6 2 volt cells, where a 16v battery has 8 2 volt cells. I do not have an issue with my auto charger at all always charges my kinetik to 14.8 volts and trips into 2 amp charge. If you are charging up more than one battery it would be a good idea to charge them up individually so they are BALANCED before you try charging them both up together where 1 might be setting more charged than the other when new or adding a newer cell in a system with an older. If the batteries are different as in brand and or size I would charge them seprately because they will not fully charged together, and you would run risk of over charging the smaller or weaker battery.

A smaller reserve just equals a dead battery quicker. 30% depth of discharge happens a lot more quickly to a 35 ah battery than a 120 ah battery. I have had nothing but good luck with my kinetik 1400, this February it will be 5 years old and it has driven systems from 500 watts to 1700 watts. I tend to stay within kinetik's recommendations and even a little bit above no issues. I have tested other batteries within their recommendations and experienced low voltage and dimming.

If it shorted inside it would have melted inside (the case would get deformed) put something across both posts and you would get an arc and melted posts. Also a loose cable would be highly resistive and also arc. Only times I have seen lead actually melt was from battery terminals actually touching the hood and a from tools like wrenches/screw drivers and ratchets laying acrocc touching both terminals.In fact I have seen it melt brass.

Short happens to be where there is heat, looks like something shorted across the teminals or the rings were loose to me.

Alt has not arrived yet

Will do. Will more than likely take better pics tuesday with a better camera. We still have to do so wire loom in the back but not too much- (ran out of loom by the rear battery) I cant wait for the new alt to get here Friday, stays in the 12.9v range as is though on overly heavy bass lines.

Well it is done but most of the pics are too darck to see. Here is the view from the front window. Sounds better than I thought it would with the deck the system has and no eq.

Should be done Saturday, the kicks are in and so are the front speakers, the fans are wired as well as the amp rack lights. Center console and the ps2 will be next. The rear battery hold down is finished (diamond plate aluminum) All we need to do is put the car up on the lift for the mounting bolts/holes and wire it up and tune it.

To make the kicks the same would require the moving of the ECM (which is not small) and to do a corner loading kick up under the dash would require moving of some VERY larg parts under the driver side dash. The speakers are however in roughly the same sized enclosure the same distance off the floor and at a very close angle. The kicks squeeze into the factory plastic kicks and fit the contour of the floor. Everything done to this car except for the dash mod can be put back to stock. pretty easily.

I need a better camera !!! The tweed looks like fuzzy carpet and the fuzzy carpet looks like bear fur. When you see it in actual light it looks very different.

lol, a dying pig? Nice. I'll definitely start opening up my options again. Set backs in money have made me put my priorities straight so the subs will probably have to wait a while, so I have plenty of time to full on decide. I just wish I could hear them in person. I'm even thinking about seeing if I could fit a regular sized sub in the back and going a little bigger. The box might be small and a little under recommended size, but we'll see. I got offered a really good deal from a friend on 3 kicker comps and a 2400w amp, but I think I just want the amp. Depending on specs of course. Either way, anybody have any videos that do shallow mount subs justice? I know you can't full on comprehend the sound from a video, but most of the shallow mount videos on youtube are recorded with pretty shitty cameras. Or any suggestions on regular sized subs that take tiny boxes? As long as the mounting depth is below 7", I should be able to work something out. TS-SW251 is the model number. THEY NEED at least .5 cft. You go smaller than recommended they dont get very low at all.

TS-SW251s from pioneer are not too bad. Both sets I put in were in about .5 cft sealed with a memphis 500 watt mono amp on each. Both were in full sized trucks. 1 extended cab the other was a standard cab. Was not the loudest 10's I have heard but you could feel them pretty well..enough to make the neighbors look out the window. The didn't get sloppy either.

Pioneer shallow mounts are not all that bad. I have put in 2 pairs and the bang without hanging and sounding like a dying pig.