A.SMALL

You can look at the amp as a two channel amp. Each channel is stable at "1 ohm each" which the manual says will produce 1500 watts on each channel. Like it has been said the amp is not 1ohm stable "bridged". You can either wire each sub in series separately then run one sub to each channel which will give you a 2ohm load on each (900 x 2). If you wanted to bridge the amp you could run one wire from the amp to the sub box and series everything which would give you around 1800 x 1 @ 4ohms. There are amps that can operate below 1 ohm effectively but from my experience the AP3000 doesn't fall into that category. Its a decent budget amp if you stay within its intended uses/limitations.

Well i found the answer to the question in my last post, pretty common sense answer idk why i even asked lol.. Wonder why manufactures don't publish the frequency response graph with amps like they do subs...

Presaite the replies, regarding amplifier frequency response. Would a sub amp with the same power output from 20 Hz to wherever the low pass filter is set mean it has a flat response when compared to an amp that loses power output as the frequency decreases below the where the low-pass is set? I think I've read a review where a lower quality amp started losing output power when measured below 40hz... could it be possible for a amp to put out 1000 watts at 50hz but only 500 at around 30??

I will be starting another small build in my 530i soon and i'm trying to make good informed descisions on sub amps. I've been browsing different forums and reading different articles discussing topics like amplifier distortion and clipping. Since i first got into car audio i have not ran anything but cheap budget systems. The amps i've used in the past 7 or 8 years on my subs have been : (excuse all of the weak sauce) 1. An old Concept cc-504a - ( i think 100 x 4 @ 4 ohms) 2. California Profile AP1000M ( 500 x 1 @ 2 ohms ) 3. Kenwood 9103d ( 900 x 1 @ 2 ohms ) 4. SPL DK2-2400 ( 540 x 2 @ 2ohms ) 5. Kicker ZX 400.1 ( 400 x 1 @ 2 ohms) 6. Audiopipe AP 3000 ( 3000 x 1 @ 2 ohms ) 7. Audiopipe AP 1500 ( 1500 x 1 @ 1 ohms ) and currently i'm using a crunch 600.2 amp rated 300 x 1 @ 4 ohms on a mmats juggernaut. One recent trend that has seem to been buzzing on other forums is the whole "clean" vs "dirty" power threads. From what i understand the general meaning of clean power is power output at less than 1% THD and a un-clipped wave on an oscope. One of the most hated brands in these discussions has been Audiopipe. Now don't get me wrong i'm not ignorant to the fact that there are better amps out there but for my specific application/budget they've been the best amps that " I " have owned. Most recently there was a bench test done by a guy named "Big D Wiz" on youtube. During the test he used a pretty stout power supply, o scope, the infamous dd-1, and a non-reactive load to test the output of a Audiopipe AP 1500. I think he ended up getting about 1,100 "clean" watts out of it at a 1 ohm non-reactive load. So my question is if two amps are set to put out the same 1,1000, or 1,000,000 "clean watts" and all other things are kept constant.......will they both sound the same (or at least unoticeably similar) or since one amps build quality is better sound quality will be improved over a cheaper amp?

This won't be here long, wish I had some extra change laying around. GLWS !

Yea that makes sense, and with his statement about some being dissapointed he's probably not going SSA....ahhhh and so the plot thickens and the mystery continues lol

Serious guess, Custom Steve Mead ZCON's by SSA... Or multiple ZCON 12's something similar to the SSA Mustang .. Since day 1 i've been following this build, just doesn't get much better than Chevy's and Big Bass. I'm sure most of us are feeling like little kids before christmas lol and regardless of what these mystery subs are, those of us who can only dream of building something of this caliber will continue to enjoy the excitement of living through you and your build as well as others.

Ascendant Audio Steve Meade's for Mr. Steve Mead.... It only makes sense.... Bring on the dissapointment....

Definitely some nice and interesting work you got going on there...look forward to seeing more!

I was looking into buying new woofers in the next few months and Fi was on my list as a company to consider but these threads make me think otherwise because I tend to be a little impatient, especially when it involves my money. One thing that I noticed is how many threads about Fi but close to none about SSA woofers and they come from the same build house. I believe that communication is the key there and when running a business that has to be kept a priority. Four and a half months.....Scary! Hopefully they get you taken care of. Most will say "Be patient it's worth the wait" but while they may make great products you begin to reach a point of deminishing returns when the wait is too long. Fi has an excellent reputation for product performance and i couldn't imagine their customer service to be lacking as much as it seems. I'm sure they have good reason for what's been happening with the delays and communication and hopefully they will make these reasons known to their customers at least. Good luck to you Notorious & everyone else with similar issues.

Twas only joking big guy, I see no butt holes on SSA. Tis why I love this place and company so =) .

Hi guys I need them woofaz for the cheap.... ....o ok i'm dealing with a bunch of a**hooles. Screw you guys im going home. LoL... You guys are such a**holes. WHY YOU BE MEAN TO MEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!??? JUST WANT SOME CHEAP PRICE LIKE MUCH OTHERZZZZZZZZ!!! SSA forum should stand for (S)eriously (S)erious (A)**hole forums!!! Heck halfway there because SSA is ASS backswards!!! /funny guy rant

After looking at pics online he is probably looking at the bass knob which has operation LED's (Power,Thermal, & Short) and a clipping LED. I looked at the manual and it states: "It is common to see the LED light up GREEN for pre-clip and is not a concern. But, when the LED color changes to AMBER you will want to reduce the LEVEL or BOOST a bit until this condition is no longer experienced." http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hifonics/pdfs/2010%20Hifonics%20Colossus%20Amplifier%20Manual.pdf Maybe you should read the manual it just might answer most your questions lol.

1.How do you know the amp is clipping? Measuring the output with a oscilloscope? 2.How do you have the sub wired? Is it a dual 1 ohm sub or is it a dual 2 wired to 1 ohm.

Did you go back and make sure you had the sub wired right? Sounds like the amp may be going into protect mode. We could probably come up with a number of things that could be wrong but it'll be easier to pinpoint the problem once you start overlooking the install.

Yea it is. Video files can be played through an iPod if you have one though.

Not sure on the 4400 but I have the 4300 and had the same issues trying to play video files through the usb port. After searching and reading the manual I found out that you can only play video files through a DVD only.

If you cotinually blew subs and can't find your way to your doorstep after getting out of your car then you would understand.....lol

If your truck peaks at 47 I would think setting the subsonic at 47 will cut your output at 47hz ....and that defeats the purpose. Usually your subsonic is set a few hz below the tuning frequency of your enclosure. Never heard of setting it at your peak output, but i'm not a competitor...

If you're not a technician/engineer and will only be using the scope to set your gains then the dd-1 will probably be a better choice for you. I have never used a scope or dd-1 to set my gains and have never had issues with killing my equipment because of it.

Congrats on the new scores! Keep givin'em Hell man!!!

4 ICON 18's , A LOT of amperage to caress a lot of power to caress those ICON's....Sounds lovely man!

lol , I don't know where you guys are getting that two 1500's are more stable. Not trying to be a prick just curious because this hasn't been the case in my installs. What kind of test have you done or what experiences have you had that proves/makes you guys say this??? I've either used or installed every mono amp in the AP line and a few others i know that own the AP3000 have never had issues with stability. Maybe you guys are meaning the 1500 can handle a lower ohm load like being wired to .5 better than the 3K which might be fact. I never did an install that required we wire the 1500's lower than 1ohm, or the 3k's lower than 2ohms bridged for a daily setup there really isn't a point and it's not worth the risk. So with that said maybe the 1500's are more stable when wired lower than they are meant to be, but out of 7 different AP's i've never had issues with stability with either. Maybe I am just lucky though lol.

Is my font and font size out of whack? What's the standard around here.....

If you’re burning alternators up in 45 minutes and the alt wasn’t on it’s last legs then I’m pretty sure it was because of your install and user error. Did you have a volt meter installed? Running that much power without an H/O alternator and a good battery reserve is not something I would recommend to you. I had an AP3000 in my 2006 Galant, Stock 120 alt, Duralast Gold up front, Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and one run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex ran to the back. On the regular I ran the amp bridged at 4 ohms and had voltage drop into the low 12’s . Of course I could get it to drop lower if I turned up the gain and bass boost but I knew better than that. I have also ran it bridged at 2ohms for about a month on the same electrical and of course voltage drop was hideous IF I RAN IT FULL TILT, but I KNEW ENOUGH to not let it drop too low. I installed another AP3000 in my cousins jeep Cherokee almost 3 years ago and he finally upgraded subs that can take all of the power (Kicker CVX’s) in April. Stock Alt, Durlast Battery up front, and 1 positive run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex to a Kinetic HC2400 in the rear. We set the gains by ear while keeping an eye on voltage drop and he never drops below 12 volts. If you don't want to pay for a h/o alt and everything else needed to properly support that amp then don't try to run it at full power. Instead use one channel and wire down to 1 ohm, that'll give you 1500 which is plenty for daily. When you get into running larger amps you need to really understand how the whole system works together and it’s limitations or you will damage your equipment and possibly your vehicle. The AP3K is not a bad choice when compared to two 1500's. 9 times out of 10 if someone is having problems with "stability" or "overheating" it isn't the amp at fault but the user and their install. I've had two AP3K's for about 4 years and they have been nothing short of "Reliable" , "Stable not Unstable", "Cool Running not Overheating", "Together no Broken", except for when my cousin rolled his truck and broke the legs off of one of them but it still works flawlessly. Every amplifier as well as other equipment has it's limits and just because you or others try to surpass those limits or are ignorant to what they are don't blame the amp.