A.SMALL

And i am not a competitor so i can't speak on using them in competition only from a daily standpoint. From what I have read on other forums it looks like most guys that are competitors frown upon using Audiopipe in daily setups let alone in the lanes lol, but hey to each his own i guess.

I haven't had any experience with the APSM seris but have had plenty of experience with nearly every mono amp in the AP series in the past 4 years so i can only vouch for them. Never had a problem with reliability or amps blowing up in my face like so many people seem to have happen. I've had two AP3000's and a AP1500, no issues except for one DOA i got back in 09 but that was switched out with a new amp no charge through the place i ordered it. I also installed a AP1800, 2 AP1500's, and a AP1000 in friends cars and they all are running fine to this day. One of my AP3000's that i sold to my cousin has been through hell and back (Nearly full tilt for long drives, low voltage, tossed around in a accident when he rolled his jeep in the snow) and still performs like the day i bought it. From what people are saying the APSM's are somewhat better/stronger than the AP's and i love my AP's

This GCON in the top right corner of my screen is beautiful ....

Im pretty sure most old amps wouldn't complain about a solid 14.4 either lol

OK lol i just wanted to be sure i didnt have something messed up somewhere and it wasnt just my amp. So basically, i need another amp to kill/reduce the heat is what im getting? Looks like its time to start saving for the endo i want... Like others said first make sure your install is up to par proper power wire, solid battery and fuse connections at all terminals, good clean ground, and amp settings. Then you can probably draw the conclusion that it’s just the amps nature to run hot like I have from installing and using these amps. You said you never drop below 12 but that is still enough voltage drop to heat an amp like that up with ease. I have the 600.2 and when bridged at 4ohms, with my electrical it never drops below 13.8 from a 14volt start and it still gets a good bit warm after about a half hour of heavy beating, but that’s to be expected. I have wired it down to 1ohm before (its not 1ohm stable of course) and it only takes a couple minutes of high volume bass heavy songs to make the heat sink hot enough to “cook eggs” before it protects, even with very low voltage drop. One difference I believe between a cheap quality and good quality amp is that the designers of the lower quality amps seem to try and squeeze the most power they can out of the already cheap parts used in the amp, pushing them to their limit to do close to rated power. This is how you end up with a cheap amp running very hot and failing quicker than a better quality amp overtime. Most quality amps use internal components that can make the rated power without putting that much stress on the components used, making them able to run cooler and last longer than cheaper amps. I’m not downing our amps in anyway because they serve their purpose when you have realistic expectations of them, but there is much better to be had out there.

Cheap crunch class A/B amp in a hot trunk, ran at 1ohm getting hot enough to burn flesh is normal lol...I have a 600.2 and does the same thing if I beat on it hard.

Had no idea , background on my screen is white and everyone's post have been in black font.

1. If you have dual 2’s your wiring options are .5, 2, or 8 ohms. It would be a lot safer to wire them to 2ohms. 2. Generally speaking larger enclosures tend to be more efficient meaning they usually yield more output around tuning on the same power when all other enclosure aspects are kept equal. 3. Relatively cheap is a relative term. What’s relatively cheap to me might not be relatively cheap to you so stating a specific dollar value or range will help with suggestions for an amp. Regarding the port size you make the port based on the amount of port area your specific woofers need and the desired tuning frequency you want to have.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/47700-options-explained/

Have to agree with Shizzz as far as the KonFused terminals being a PITA. Used a pair on a Kinetic HC2400. Fitting the wire into the compression terminals wasn't fun and the positive terminal would not secure to the battery post at all. Sent it back, got another one, same problem. I personally would choose regular ring terminals over the compression ones but to each his own.

Thanks jj, I'm not sure if those t/s parameters are correct either. According to Dave at MMATS the t/s parameters left their building YEARS ago. But he suggested 4.5 net with 50 square inches of port @ 18 inches long. Im assuming he got the 15 mixed up with the 12 , but either way they are the same enclosure recommendations as the current line. When i asked about the power handling I was told it should be good up to about 1000 watts so those could be correct. Having the correct t/s parameters is not a major concern but would be nice to have. I'm just trying to find as much information about this driver so i know what it is i have in front of me. Anyone know the production run of these models? I found this review from back in 1999 of the 15" Juggernaut by Car Sound & Performance : http://www.carsound....bs/juggrnt.html Im no expert but isn't a bl of 8.9 pretty low for a driver with a "loud" reputation?

Only thing i could notice was a small amount of tinsel lead slap while in the sealed enclosure. After removing it and looking it over i saw that two of the leads were somewhat flimsy and kind of flopped around when i free-aired it. Also there are two very small tears on the spider surface where it looks like the two more loose leads had been rubbing against it. I built a 2.3 cubic ft ported enclosure for it tuned to 34Hz with 2 4 inch round ports and it sounds decent. Won't know how good of a condition it is in until i can put real power to it, hopefully i'll be able to hook it up to my cousins AP3000 in the next week or so and see how it performs.

Yea, i tested it in the sealed enclosure it came in on my little crunch 600.2 and it worked. I was suprised at how much excursion i was seeing off that small amount of power, maybe due to the fact that it's old and the suspension is wearing or just because it isn't meant to be sealed? The suspension feels pretty stiff when pressing down on the center of the cone so maybe it's not as worn as i think.

I'm pretty sure they didn't know what they had, the sub was mounted in a small sealed pre-fab enclosure and im sure the shop owners never bothered to take it out and inspect it. I thought it would have dawned on him when he almost broke his back trying to lift the enclosure off the floor! lol

Yea, I see that the newer 12 spoke versions run near $600 new so i figured it had to be a steal for under $100.

Browsing around at a pawn shop around town and i came across this sub hidden in a corner. Owner wanted $90 for it talked him down to $70 lol. So now i'm trying to find any specs or t/s parameters on it just out of curiosity. I have already emailed MMATS. Anyone have any experience with this sub? Im assuming it's rather old by the looks of it.

Build is crazy mayne, The box came out real nice. If you're in Durham i have to hear this!

PM Sent

Thanx Mac, I'll give them a try. And M5? Wow why didnt i think of that. Im pretty sure he will Dutchie. Thanx guys

Whats up SSA Forums, Im looking to replace the alternator on my 2002 BMW 530 ASAP with an HO Alternator. My search online and in person has not been too good, so i was wondering if any of you guys could refer me to a person, website, or shop if it's close to the Raleigh/Durham area in North Carolina. Thanks

Thanks for the worm welcome lol.... And I'll put Fisher Customs on the drawing board... Thnx, Breeze

Yea i am definitely going ported ....and it will be my 1st time attempting a ported design And ill be keeping in touch with SSA since people here seem to know the do's and dont's of car audio....and hopefully i can learn more as i go... Presait the help..... Breeze

Im TOOOO familiar with the efficiency of ported boxes and their higher output over sealed,since most people i know run pre-fabed ported boxes..... jux have never ran ported personally because i havent had the time to build one and i dont like the sound of the pre-fabs...though a custom ported design is going to be my next project. I haven't competed in any events (maybe in the future but nothing serious)... jux mainly street bass and friendly street competition...but i do plan on at least metering my next system... And yea i dont doubt that 2 15's ported will at least get loud as 4 sealed....i have a friend running a pair of HCCA 10's ported in a eclipse and it easily beat my 4 12's sealed as as far as output in the upper range....but 4 15s trunked was mainly more of a personal challenge than anything....that's why it isnt first on my list... My main goal for my next system is to get low and loud ( while retaining sq)... I am all for saving money and making every watt i run efficient as possible so thats why i am stepping into the ported world first.... Thnx, Breeze

I have had a enclose that was about 7ft cubed , that i built, in my trunk before..... Getting the measurements right took some time but it worked.... Fitting 4 normal 15's in the trunk of a galant would be near impossible... But The 15's i were referring to were the kicker solo classics that only require about 1.25 sealed each...So it is possible Thnx, Breeze Oh I thought you were still talking about ported, well yeah you could do 4-15"s sealed I knew that. lol no hard feelings jay-cee.... Yea sealed is my only option there, unless someone discovers a super compact ported design that is equivalent to sealed volume lol Ported is deafenately going to be considered and more than likely tried before i finalize my decision... But this wont be an overnight project either way...a lot of thinking and planning is in my future now... Breeze