kirill007

I'm sorry, but WRONG. yes, they are both compressed. But there is a HUGE difference between lossy(mp3) and lossless formats such as flac. lossless formats compress without throwing tons of data out, they keep it, it is an exact replica of the source. Err, sort of. Large difference in what data is there yes, but most importantly there will be NO difference to your ears. Don't believe me? Easy test. Rip a well recorded song onto a disc in FLAC. Save it. Convert to 320kps. Convert the 320kps song to FLAC (note it will still whatever was lost before lost again). Have someone blindly A/B you both songs, or even easier just have them label them and try to pick which one is the mp3. I guarantee you won't be able to pick the one that is compressed. I've done this with some of my friends and they can't pick the 192's even. A few years back when I was ripping my library, I did have somebody blind A/B me..... And I could pick out the 320s from the lossless. However, I am sure the technology has improved over the past couple years, and I may not be able to hear a difference if I tried today. I also hear difference between 256kbps, and a lossless. There is the most difference at the higher freqeuncy ranges, and on some songs you have "hidden" instruments, on 256 they fade away but not in lossless format. (But for most of the time 256kbps will do.)

You will never hear difference in 1 or 4 ohm.

Just don't listen to him, he doesn't knows what he's talking about. I'm surprised he didn't said that you need round ports for round subs and square ports for square subs, because if it's a square port the waves will mess themself up...

Looks nice to me, it responds faster then the TL and it has better freqeuncy analyser. But kind of weird,if you turn it up to 135db, the freqeuncy changes.(mayb it's because the amp is distorting? if my calculations are right it ditstorts 3%.)

A box will sound worse with Fiberglass, but you will not hear it.(the stronger a box is the peakier it will sound.) If u don't want to spend the few dollars for fiberglass, then don't do it. But if you use fiberglass, you can make it louder.(not only because it's stronger, but also because you can sand it really smooth which will increase db's) Don't use only resin, like some people do, resin doesn't helps. It's the fiberglass that makes it strong. There will be less flex, hurt SQ(inaudible) ,peakier response curve, db gain(in all the cases i've seen), no change in mechanical noise, no audible difference in sound, air flow get's better(cause you can sand it smooth, and maybe even polish it), no difference in distortion,or cancellation , Really don't know about the last one.

I think it's because a clipped wave is square('d), if it's square the cone stays longer at the upper and lower side of the wave. Less movement=less cooling.

Because all the rest is crap. The JBL will probably sound the best and be the loudest.(most of their woofers are good quality)

If the voltage drops to 8-9 volts if it's not even playing and just going in protect, then its probably a dead battery.

Was it hot after you have played it 4-5 hours? Could be fried because you were playing too long, and the voltage probably dropped and keep on dropping till it fried the amp.

If this is what u mean with super tweeter, then there won't be anything SQ about it. But they are really loud and more then 2(per side) of them is overkill. super tweeter

but 0.1db is a lot when approaching the 160range. Ok then.. I see serious competitors keep resining and sanding over and over again til their score just doesnt increase anymore. I guess i should stick to resining then. If you're already in 160range then it probably won't even help for 0.1db.

You can make the resin more smoot then a lexan sheet. If you polish it after using sanding paper. EDIT: but i don't think it will affect the score more then 0.1Db.

Sand will not help a lot. But yes, you're first plan is the best. Use a lot of 2x4's to build the frame, and then lay a piece of oak in it.(and then maybe resin and fiberglass.)

Concrete? EDIT: you said extreme...

That's not the amps fault. (user error) I would take the first one, but i think the best choice would be the AQ. (by the way, you're links don't work.) EDIT:Jay-cee ninja'd me ....

Please don't use those graphs anymore if you are designing a subwoofer for a car or in-house. Because Winisd gives the graphs but it doesn't accounts for room/car acoustics and the gains you get at certain freqeuncies.(that's probably why M5 said you cannot read those graphs.) He is trying to help you by saying that 28 will not fit you're goals if you wanted LOUD and low. (tuning a 32hz would be perfect for you i think)

I live in Belgium...

Well, i have 90 grand worth in pennies... (but you pay shipping costs of the pennies...) LOL

The SSD is underrated, that is a good thing, means it can handle more power then it's RMS. (i think that is what you asked.)

New jackhammer is a square 24 inch.... EDIT: ok, whatever.

yes really. it's called head room. , you think all people will use it as headroom?(i like headroom too. ) Instead of cranking it up to the max, with sometimes not properly set gains. Not really smart to post that kind of stuff on a forum, where a lot of beginner's read up to gain knowledge and then they read that and think they need a bigger amp.(and burn woofers, and then ask what happened.)

HOLY, rainbow isn't a cheap (nor is bad quality.) brand. But i would also consider BladeICE to buy a Fi sub, like the BL. Not a IB3 like a guy suggested. IB3 is for infinite baffle aplications only, no box at all. EDIT:NCSU ECE, 10's get low as easy as a 18 inch sub, no difference in sizes,except output.

Just don't do it, much easier. Just kidding, the best idea would be a power converter that converts from 12v to 110v-120v?(don't know how high the voltage on normal american equipment is.) Make sure the power converter you use is a good quality one and make sure to take one that can convert more then you need , so you would have headroom.

Get ready to blow all wofoers....