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kirill007

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Everything posted by kirill007

  1. Digital designs Z series. end of thread...
  2. I don't think the brutus does 1700 at 2ohm, i think they put out that much power at 1 ohm, so if you would connect it at 2ohm then you would give the BL max. 850W. And the kicker does 1500w at 2 ohm. So i would take the Kicker.
  3. DC power also has nice alts.
  4. He said he went from a MP3-player to a headunit. The output voltage on a mp3player is lower then a HU. So he should readjust the gain and put bassboost at 0.
  5. Don't know if you can pull it off with 136amps, but you could try, just make sure you have something to monitor the voltage.
  6. Upgrade the Alternator(atleast 200amps) or add a second alternator. How much amps is you're alternator? Do the Big three, there is a thread on ssa about how to do it. And use 0 guage wire from the front to the back.
  7. You think you're electrical will hold that much power without any electrical upgrades? 2000W isn't something you should run on stock electrical. EDIT: btw, 36hz will be the loudest.
  8. Only 162, i think he is going to be depressed with those kind of numbers... No way to tell how much dB a subwoofer will put out in a car, too many things depend on how loud it is. But i think you will hit around 120-142dB.
  9. I would do the 15" sub and a birch enclosure, weighs much less then MDF.(and has the same strenght.) Just make you're enclosure lighter, with single wall and double baffle birch and a lot of fiberglass to strenghten it.
  10. Ow, didn't see the amp. Yea, 3cu ft would a lot louder, 3cu ft and 60sq inches of port area would be loud.
  11. The BTL asks for minimum 1.75cu ft. I wiuld make a box with 2.30cu ft and around 40sq inches of port area.
  12. Holy crap that is HUGE. Why didn't you just used infinite baflle instead of a huge box?
  13. Maybe the Q is better for bandpass enclosures? (just a thought...)
  14. To put it simple: Big box= lots of excursion on low(er) power=more efficient Small box= less excursion on the same amount of power=less efficient Smaller boxes have less air in it, so it support the cone better=less excursion. Too much excursion=blown sub.
  15. That's true, but can the lvl4xl's handle 5k each? don't think so. Lvl 5 subs are better for daily if you put that much power to them. This is going to be a nice build.
  16. Knowing Chop he has already calculated for it, actually you dont do any calculations (the subs displacement is zero, so the only displacement you account for is port and bracing if any when mounting sub inverted). I hope you were kidding, displacement of a sub isn't zero, it depends on the sub. The displacement of this sub is probably around 0.23 cu ft or even more. Nice build, i like the box with rounded edges. And i like the sub, real beefy.
  17. I'm thinking of clipping too, because 3/4 gain is a lot.
  18. Yes, it sounds very good, only minus is that i have a peak at 43hz, but that can have a lot to do with room acoustics. Before the Tline i didn't listened a lot to rock, but now i like to hear and feel the kickdrum. @Cablguy, thx.
  19. Duran, i think he wanted to know how big it looks in real life. (Big pictures) Friend of me holding the top piece. Dog guarding the wood. (dog=golden retriever, so a quite big dog.)
  20. No, It doesn't has a chamber at all, just a port. You can calculate port lenght by using this formula. 1125(=speed of sound) divided by the desired tuning and then divided by 4. Example: 1125/27=41,67ft 41.67ft /4 =10,417ft This is how long the port needs to be.(10.417ft or 125.00400 inches) Then you need to figure out port area, measure the cone from the surround(inside of it) to surround, then divide by two and take the square of that number and multiply by Pi(3,1415926535897932384626433832795) example(12 inch sub,with a 10inch radius cone): 10/2=5 5²=25 25xPi=25x3,1415926535897932384626433832795=78sq inches of port area. So for a 12 inch sub you need 78sq inches of port area and a lenght of 125 inches. You can also add some stuffing to make the Tline sound less peakier, but this is trail and error. You can fold the Line, so the enclosure looks smaller and thicker. A raw Tline with no dampening added is more efficient then a normal ported box tuned to the same frequency.(i have tested it myself) @Duran, yes a enclosure tuned to 27hz is huge even for a Ten inch sub.
  21. I think he meant to say that the bass sounded the same, doesn't mather if it's at 4 or 1 ohm. I think their is no difference in sound quality, never heard the difference even for speakers it doesn't really mathers if it plays at 1 or 16 ohm.(just saying numbers)
  22. The mechanical power handling goes down, because there is no airspace behind it to act like a air spring. So excursion is higher with lower power. 4th order vented box, is a bit confusing, much easier to just use ported or vented box.(Because i'm from Belguim, and english is not my native language.) To the last line: look at my previous post. (i know there are quite a lot of people that think they have built a Tline, but it's just a ported box with a long port and same port area as the subs crossectional surface area.) Lol at J-roadtatts.
  23. If you are talking about me.(which you probably are, look at these pictures) (don't know if i can post links to this forum, but here ,is my link to my Tline Build :Tline Build I know what a Tline is and how it sounds, and most of the physics behind it. And most important, i know how to build it.( but i do not khow how to make it look good) EDIT: like i thought, the link doesn't works, just put Steve mea dedes igns in the URL.(without the spaces.)
  24. Yes, I had both kind of enclosures, Tlines, normal ported, and 4th order bandpass. The 4th order bandpass could get louder, because power handling is better then in a ported box, and Tline was waay more efficient then any of those boxes.

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