ClinesSelect

Thank you Mike. I don't think there is anything wrong with the driver. I reset the gain with a DMM over lunch and it was set correctly. I just built the new box this weekend so I will continue to dial it in. I was just surprised at how quickly it reached (exceeded) max excursion. With the birth sheet of the amp showing 1,458 watts RMS, that's only 2.5 times the rated RMS of the sub

The gains are set by ear. It's not an issue of introducing distortion. The sub is being pushed to full excursion and "blapping" (if that is a word) but it is happening sooner than it should. I am running it active off a Alpine 9835, crossed over at 40hz with a 18db slope and no bass boost. My 10" Brahma handled the same set up (smaller box of course) with ease so I am thinking the box is still too big which is reducing the power handling of the Rl-p. But then I read that I need 1.25 for better low end extension which has me wondering what is the ideal size box.

This is the thread I was referring to regarding sealed box size. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...opic=3435&st=15

I first built a 1.7 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 32hz for my RL-p 12 and it handled my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 with no problems at all. This weekend I built a 1.4 ft^3 sealed box which would give me 1.28 ft^3 net after sub displacement. The problem is that my amp easily overpowers the RL-p causing it to emit some less than favorable sounds when I turn it up. I then put it in a 1.13 ft^3 box (net), which helped some but I still cannot crank it. The enclosure specs say I should be using 1.0 ft^3 or less but then I read on here that 1.25 was the ideal amount of air space for this sub. What would be the ideal size box for the RL-p with 1200 watts RMS? Any help would be appreciated.

I did one 12" RL-p in 1.7 ft^3 tuned to 32hz in my Dodge Ram and replaced the center console. I was going to build a sealed box for 2 but it sounds like I won't have enough air space.

My order number was on the list :dancingsmilie: