DC Power Kyle

the 180HP loses 15% output hot versus the 170OEM which loses 25-30%. So in a sense, the 180 maintains higher amperage and better idle as well. You can't go wrong with either, but i personally would go with the 180 so you have more room for growth for your system.

Sounds like mad clipping...

And no, 270 is a large case denso while 320 is a small case denso. I would run a single 270XP over a single 320HP every day of the week...

A/C Compressor won't be removed.. only way it will be done.

i have something different in mind 2 320s maybe!

Eh, it gets used to it. Not really but hahahah. Just thought I would share.

I Accidentally left my carputer on last night. When i started my car the XP wasn't making my engine happy charging the batteries up at full load. Anyways, this is what happens when the 270XP loads down a 4 cylinder's engine at idle. It takes 20 seconds for the computer to actually realize what's going on and adjust for the load compensation. The alternator in this car idles at 2,000 alternator RPMs. 500 alternator RPMS LESS than the competition. It's rated to do 180 amps or so at this RPM. It takes power to make power. This proves it.

Yes, it would compliment the stock battery and help it out A LOT!

180 amp allllll day long 320 is overkill. I have a 02 camry.... and yes, the same are offered, except different case. minus the XP series (230,250,270XP)

My dad has that car. Toyota screwed us on the belt and made it like a 4 rib belt for the alternator. We can turn it into something more most likely but would have to talk with Rob tomorrow when I get in. Give us a call at the shop tomorrow

What year camry? and not for 400....

Here's a couple of pics http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/102298/1/Cabo?h=8d4f96

You heard it right guys, this is a WEB ONLY deal and we have had great success with our OEM 190 series. I would highly suggest you guys checking it out. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/dual-alternator-kits/gm/1999-2010-chevy-5-3-5-7-6-0-6-2-dual-alternator-bracket-with-190-amp-oem-series-alternator.html

Cabo it be!

Starting tomorrow I will be out of the country until the following wednesday. Just letting you guys know! Rob may pop in from time to time but if you guys need anything at all call us at 888-441-0144. Thanks!

We do not have a dual kit unfortunately for the Impala. However, we can do a single 380 amp in there if you really need the top end power. Or we can do our 270XP that will do about 180-200 amps at idle with 270 amps on the top end.

Okay, just FYI that I have a 2002 Toyota Camry 4cyl as well. So we've done quite the testing on it! So here's what it boils down to: The industry rates the alternator output at idle at 2,400-2,500 alternator RPMs. Now the problem with that is our car idles at about 600~ engine RPMs and with the small crank pulley diameter (industry standard is usually based on a GM V8 with a 7.75 inch crank pulley, not like the 6 inch crank pulley in our cars.) This equates to about 2,000 alternator RPMs with the A/C WITH an overdrive pulley on the alternator and NOT what everyone rates them at. We are giving you true idle output ratings and not test bench ratings. Having the vehicle in front of us running these tests have made us very familiar with the engine. If you were to put that 320HP on to a GM V8, you'd see about 140 at idle, but on our Camry's we're losing 40 amps at idle. The 180HP has better idle output due to being able to tone down the top end to gain higher idle output. Now the 270XP version for our vehicles will do close to 190 at idle after the engine catches itself and compensates for the alternator load AT 2,000 alternator RPMs. The 270XP will do over 200 at idle on a Chevy V8 engine. So the difference between us and the competition? I guess you can say that we like to actually tell our customers what they're truly getting and not boast our idle output numbers like the rest. Hope that answers your questions OH and just to let you know. These alternators DO NOT BREAK. They're based of of the Denso OEM Hairpin platform and have the most sophisticated regulators out there. Heat is NOT an issue with a hairpin. I rolled around with a 130HP (130 MAX OUTPUT) for 6 months running a SAZ-3500D at .5 and beating the crap out of it. Guess what? Didn't break So you can expect 100 amps at idle MINIMUM.. not something that we're guessing. We know this because of our actual testing on the vehicle.

That's not even needed. Take the battery out. Take the airbox out. remove the alternator positive from the battery go to the starter b+ terminal and put the accessory positive on the starter b+ along with a brand new 0 gauge wire and call it a day. did it on mine and oh boy does my car start faster that way, no bare wires! i dont even use my stock alternator positive.. just ran 0 gauge across to the battery by the radiator.

By the way home made extension is a bad idea... if it grounds you'll have a fire.

By the way, Let me know when you want one of these bad boys 270 on the top end and 160-180 at IDLE not 800 rpm idle but IDLE on the bottom end.

We actually do have a 270XP for it as well does 160-180 at idle. If you're interested feel free to call me and we can either upgrade ya and pay the difference or walk ya through the pros of it

He'll have to drive it, not just let it run. It will have to cycle through a couple open/closed loops to worlk everything out. Interesting cause everytime mine fixes it own in park. heh maybe im special

Just let the car run and it WILL fix itself.

Cause I'd have to reformat the whole post