adamt

If your car is a unibody with no frame rail to run to it can be tough. Usually a good clean body ground will work but a run to the front is probably better

Some sonata models do have "premium" sound systems. The amp is in the trunk. You can run speaker leads from the hu to the speakers but the factory speakers are probably not 4 ohm. Might want to replace them if they aren't. It's your call. You can remove one of the speakers and it should be printed on the back what the impededence is.

You should be able to get them at autozone. I got mine at radio shack. I got a 40a 4 pin. Seems like the Green parking brake wire goes to the vertical pin the remote goes opposite of that and the two ground wires go on the other two pins. You will have three wires on the ground pin. You need some female spade connectors also. Post back when you get done

At the very end of the video the guy explains how it works and it's the remote wire not an accessory wire. It's been awhile so it's a ways back in my memory. I know I tried a couple different methods and it was really starting to bug me since it had worked once. Seems like when I was havin problems it was popping up a warning screen on turn on everytime and wouldn't play DVDs and did not respnd to the toggle. All I know is it works flawless now and with no effort. The relay is much simpler then you think. Some of the comments are very helpful if you look through them.

I know when I first installed mine I had found something that explained hooking up a toggle switch. I forget exactly how I had it hooked up but had the ground on a toggle to the ebrake wire. I took a road trip the day after and watched a movie. Something happened and it never worked again until I installed the relay. It's super easy and way more clean and effective then a toggle anyways. Watch the vid-it's very explanatory and works. It's totally worth it

This model needs a relay. You splice into the ground then bridge over to another pin. Hook up the green ebreake to one pin and an accessory wire on the other pin. When the car is switched on it triggers the relay and grounds the ebrake. Works like a charm

this is the vid I was talking about.

Is it the avh p3100 DVD? If that's the model it's the same as what I'm running. I found a really good vid on YouTube that shows how to do it. You have to get a relay. I forget the exact way but the vid shows exactly how to do it. I think they do it on the 4100 model which is the same but bigger screen

I believe those are the sizes of the batteries not the prices Sounds like usaci rules

That wire is really important if you are wanting to run any significant power on your system. What kind of car do you have?

Which? They have about 3 different 6.5 models. The Crescendos I am talking about are the ccx65. The mustang DD install are 6 DDW6.5's on a DD M3A amp @ .667 ohm. Here's a pic, I've seen him hit a 151.3 sealed on the term lab. I see a guys head in front of that box!! Haha dd is the shit. I think I'm going to give them my money on my next upgrade

I have been talking to some people and I am partially wrong here. The voltage I reported was my amp voltage and not my system voltage. It is the ac voltage output from the amp that was 11v. my numbers are still the same 11vac output on speaker leads and around 70a on positive speaker lead. Where I am right is the output on my alt I only used 35% of it's output. I am getting together with some people soon to measure amp output in watts and see what it does in ratio to system voltage off the battery. I apologize for my error. The cool thing is-the numbers don't lie as longas you got the right numbers.

Any good trobleshooting place to go from here would be to swap a known working amp in your system or put your amp in a known working system so you can isolate the problem to either being a bad amp or bad elecrical system in your car. If the amp is faulty it would either need repaired or replaced. If the amp is good you need to identify why your voltage is dropping so low it shuts the amp off- if that's even the reason it's shutting down. At this point it's hard telling telling what the problem is. If the amp is good you would need to get a reading off the amp when it shuts down. If it is voltage drop that's doing it it would either be alternator output or a bad ground at the amp. I suspect for some reason bad rcas could be causing the problem as well as a fault in your head unit not sending output when you turn the volume up. I think swapping out is the best place to start. Let me know what you find out

I've never read a bad thing about Ohio generators. Their price is high though. I bought from irragi and would look else where next time. Not the customer service I feel comfortable with. As far as the alt itself it is running fine and gave no probs with it. Hey jay- what are your numbers when you are testing? Do you have any numbers during a burp? I forgot what you said the mechman was putting out after you got it fixed-14.1v?

You can use a switche accessory wire to power on the amp. Splice into the red wire on your headunit. Also you might want to check all your grounds. Hopefully somebody else will have something better to say

Then your alt is broke....... :-/ at 11v your alt should be working it ass off. At least mine does, my 240 does around 227 at 12.4v and 1,400rpm. the alternator is only going to put ou what you call it to do so. If you are pulling 227 amps at 12.4 volts your system is putting out 2800 watts. Like I said I was only pulling 750 watts so my alternator only had to put out so much current. My shit isn't broke man- it just means I've got tons of overhead. I really hope all of these numbers you are posting are based on measurements of the actual voltage, amperage flow, and output of amp/amps that you have taken. And not just you knowing the math behind it and assuming it's all correct. Example 1a: 227amps x 12.4v = 2,814. So, based on your math, my vehicle needs NO power run any of the systems it needs,and also that my amplifier is 100% efficient. Example 1b: You said your amp was putting out "750" watts, based on your math since you were at 11v pulling 70amps, it should be making 770. But then, again, the vehicle has no power to use and the amp would have to be almost 100% efficient. Both of those seem pretty implausible, but I'll go with it. Example 2: "If you use ohms law you can figure the max output of your current system by multiplying your volts by your amps." Really? It's that simple............... P.S. Your alternator will work at "max output" until the unbalance in supply/demand is met. So, your "200" should have been damn close to putting out 200 if your at 11v. And all this was done a 2a.m. Sorry for any mistakes. the cool thing about everything is the numbers don't lie. Your alt isn't ever goin to run at max output unless the max load is called for. If your alt can only put out a max 180 amps and 15 volts then I'll be pucking damned if your amp ever pulls more then 2700 watts. When I say system I mean all current load on your electrical system not just stereo system. That's how you figure your max output. Your not going to get 15v so this max is actually higher. I wouldn't just pull some shit like this out of my ass. Yes- like I said- last time I was clamped. That means I had meters on my shit measuring my numbers. I don't remember the actual numbers for each measurement but if I dig deep it was like 10.98 volts at 66 amps. The actual total wattage was 768. I did 143dB at that time. Whatev In essence I was only utilizing 35% of my Alts rated output. Like I said my shit ain't broke I just have lots of overhead. To op- sorry bro

Not really

Then your alt is broke....... :-/ at 11v your alt should be working it ass off. At least mine does, my 240 does around 227 at 12.4v and 1,400rpm. the alternator is only going to put ou what you call it to do so. If you are pulling 227 amps at 12.4 volts your system is putting out 2800 watts. Like I said I was only pulling 750 watts so my alternator only had to put out so much current. My shit isn't broke man- it just means I've got tons of overhead.

If you use ohms law you can figure the max output of your current system by multiplying your volts by your amps. I've got a 200 amp alt and haven't got anywhere near utilizing all of it and I'm running a sundown saz-2000d. The last time I was clamped I hit around 750 watts. My voltage dropped pretty low- around 11v but was some where around 70 amps. I never push it that hard on daily use. That was taken at about 1200 rpm idle. Aside from that you have to consider running your air conditioner, wipers and headlights for normal usage. I think you will be okay. A second battery will help alot since you've done the big 3. If you find your lights dimming after you get your install done it means you probably should upgrade your alt.

DIY Speakers at Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com they have all kinds of build designs. Some even show you how to build the crossovers. I got into it pretty heavy about 5 years ago but kind of lost interest. I think home theater shack is by far the best place for information. Good luck

Sent you a pm on what I found. That should tell you everything you need to know. The rules are crazy particular about shit

Good to hear you got your problem fixed. I think there are a lot of people in the world that would have been fucked on getting that straightened out without having to send the alt back in. Also good to see you got some extra hands on the job!! I'll tell you what I know about competing. There is a documented rule book for whatever organization you are competing in. Is it usaci or db drag? I'll have to look into the flyer and see. Db drag has all their classes listed and regulations of each in their rule book. As far as your enclosure you might have to wait for a judge to determine. I'm not familar of either usaci or db drag classification but you are running some kind of blow through truck class so I don't know how the wall setup will play into that. As far as the rules for being in the car and remote setup and all that should be easy to lookup in the rules. I'll see what I can find after I finish here. I know my organization has stated rules on this but they are not enforced at all.

Good idea on calling re for the tshirt. I figured somebody in the chain of command would see this. I'm totally a rookie but it makes very promising economic sense to have a guy like me advertising. I obviously believe in the products and a lot of people get to see that. My equipment is a representation of myself and I'm proud of it all. And the coolest thing is I'm doing something with it. My balls look like balls- my install is definitely function over form but doesn't look bad. It's solid as hell too. And I will tell you something else. I already know what the answer is if I don't ask. Haha!!!

The math on an 80a alt is not good. I thought I read it was a 110 alt and I figured the max output in watts was 1600 if you were getting a full 14.4v. It's even less for an 80 amp. In that case you can have a 10kw amp but you are only going to get 1500w out of it. You can probably get a lot more then rated output from the stock alt but it's going to suck the life right out of it. My suggestion is to get the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle. That's all you can do aside from adding a second alternator or switching to a 16v system. Batteries won't really help if you are only putting out 80 amps. Amperage is really important in how many watts you can put out. I paid $400 for my 200a alt. It's worth whatever you have to pay. To me it's the heart of the system. You might be able to get your stock alt rebuilt for more output locally.

How the hell did u find that?? I couldn't even find that in my own posts. I think that's just the box build and not the entire build. So where am I on getting my tshirt??