haydenlake

Sure I'll help you with box designs but the last three people that expicilty asked for the same thing never replied, I even sent em pm's! What you need to tell us is: what are your maximum dimensions (all pinch points in the car or wherever it is going), roughly how you want it to look, what music you listen to might help, weight maximum's are nice to have too. other than that it should be an easy start.

From what I've experienced with T-Lines certian types of stuffing work better than others. Polyfill for instance does nearly nothing to increase the apparent length of the line but acousta stuff and fibbergalss (and wool) surely do. At .5-7bls per foot you'll increase perceieved lenth about 30% As far as where to put the sub, the line will act shorter the more center mounted the sub is, but these can be smoother in output from what i've heard. If you want to build something once and build it right then I would go with a ported box or sealed. A 12" T line for my max is well over 130lbs so I don't know if you want to be putting that in a trunk. U could do 4th order and port it to the cab of the car! If you're doing a t line with a pair I'd stick to 8's or 6's just based on size and weight.

1.8 to 2 cubes tuned to 28-32hz on the rlp you already have will likey be louder than a pair sealed.

after building 2 wicked one's I think it would be harder than hell to fit one with the opening upward in a trunk, I mean even if you downsize to 24" you probably don't have that much room. When I built a WO for a sub wtih the exact same motor size as the RLP I couldnt use the normal 36" wide even if I had the baffel in a crazy position, so I went to 45x45 and this thing weighs about 250 easily. I think that would slam most trunks 4 inches. you might want to draw all your lines and then see if the motor of that 8 is going to fit in something that small. But I wont leave you stranded I've got other ideas, why don't you build a Transmission line with an 8" or a pair and make the cone blow thru the rear armrest and the port blow thru a hole in the decklid. Another idea would be to do a 4th order bp and blow thru the arm rest or deck lid. As far as your question about the bass going in the trunk or cab, I've got exp there too. The more you can seal the blow thru the better even if you have little gaps the pressure in the cab just doesn't stay in the cab it goes into the trunk. so seal er up as well as possible.

And that is comming from a guy with a caddy with laced wheels! As to the part about the dampner being partialy open cell I'm not sure if I'm worried about that because Second Skin has partially open cell as well on some of their stuff too. I'm at the office now but DHL says it just got delivered.

I'm not using concrete! I emailed the guy and he said that nuprene stands for "new neoprene" which is differnet because neoprene is completely closed cell and nuprene is partially open and partially closed cell (and it was created specifically for sound dampning). So I guess that's it, I'll try it and yet you guys know. But i haven't bought my next car yet. I'm still trying to decide on. Subaru sedan or B9 Toyota, tacoma or tundra, or landcruser etc. anything else that isn't bad on gas and I don't have to spend more than 20k to get a decent used one.

I didn't spell the word wrong in re-typing the advertisement. Of course I know what neoprene is since I've been wakeboarding for 10 years. Maybe the guy in the add spelled it wrong and I just bought a bunch of neoprene, but I searched google and nuprene comes up under a few difference medical supply places and looks pretty spendy. I guess we'll find out when I get it. Oh I didn't mean to insinuate that I wouldn't be using a deadener, I'm just trying to find something to put on top of about two or three layers of (second skin, Ram mat, fat mat, dynamat, etc.) I'm trying to find the best way to dampen a car for under $500 later, b

that looks okay to me, but I'm not familiar with BBpro but it looks like a nice program. If you can spare the weight I always go with more bracing. the wood thickness at 1" is good if you actually have 1" but most mdf is .75" so make sure you can get 1" before you plan on it. I'll build it if you are anywhere near Spokane WA you should do a double mounting ring and flush mount that way the screws have more wood to bite into and it will be stiffer overall without adding too much weight. I prefer to use hurricane nuts and bolts that way if I take the driver out a few times I don't strip the wood. you should add a bit of poly fill just to absorb motor and mechanical noise something like .4-.5 lbs per cubic foot will work well and it will also make your box larger (to the speaker) so if space is a consideration you can use polyfill to decrease box size and the speaker won't know the diff. Polyfill is almost always a good thing. the port looks fine just make sure to use a roundover bit to smooth it out you dont want 90 deg angles. If you want to go real trick you can fiberglass the port and make it more circular by adding small 45 deg pieces of wood vertically in the port that way the area of the port is more consistent througout the length. later, b

I just bought 4 sheets of 40x55 at 1/8" thick(or something like that) of nuprene off of ebay for 40bucks. Supposedly its used in boeing airplanes and such. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT Does anyone know anything about it? it's got to be worth over a buck a square foot so I'm not really worried about getting ripped off. Once I get it I'll let you guys know what I think, should work well in a car. but I doubt that dynamat used that statement the guy had in his ad. thanks, b

I wish that was my system, that's actually my friends house. Yep he's got a pair of modded XXX 18"s off of something like 5kw+ As to why XXX, why not? cross em over at 40hz and they're tuned to 16hz anyway. His old system with a pair of 15" tumults did 125db at 20hz. Now its louder but I don't know how much but his house is definalty "car loud" Here are a few more pics of what I've got going, I'm going to try to lay the suede tonight. later, b PS sorry about the gross ear picture but I thought that you guys could appreicate that and be happy it wasn't you. Its not my ear but another friend of mine, it was my fault though, I threw him off of water innertube at 45mph. but hey he was trying to throw me off too.

don't make fun, that xover board has been used for tons of projects my real xover is 6x6" on mdf oh, if you do use these I can give you the schematic use a zobel filter to cure impedence and inductance problems (I really dont know much about it my buddy designed em). I guess what it does is is make the inductance the same across all the frequency range. When we added the zobel it sounded like the instruments being played were more defined. later, b

So I couldn't bear the way my system sounded with $40 pawnshop speakers from a decade ago. So I decided on a two way setup. HiVi M8A 8" mid, alum/magnesium cone, and a Vifa X25 (or 35) tweet I don't remember. Under 200 for all of em. 2cuft each tuned to 26hz Baffle step defraction design (the tweet moves that way it can be the same distance from the listening position as the center of the mid driver. At first I thought this idea was just hifi bullchit but if you close your eyes while listening and someone else moves the tweets around you can really hear it. the best distance I've found is about 4" back from the front baffle. The tweeter mounts are not finished, I'm trying to get a marble guy to make me a pair he owes me a favor. The Xover isn't that big, that's just for modeling, Boxes are still up for ideas if you guys have any. I was either going to do 1. Line X 2. Veneer 3. Trim ring out of Faux lizard or ostrich skin and wrap the rest in suede. #3 is the most expensive but I don't even thing Jay Z has suede speakers! Any thoughts on color. Sorry the pics are chit some are off of my cell phone. If these turn out well can I get bumped up from newbie status? Oh, by the way, these sound amazing (or did) on my friends system with a killer front end (like some $4-5k amp) but on my 11year old kenwood they just don't come to life and they actually sound bad. hmm Gotta go sell a few more houses then I can buy whatever amp I want!

Quit being a undecisive pussy and buy something, once you do you won't know that the "other" system was better or worse (and then its) still relative anyway. BUY BUY BUY

When you are planing to spend 500 bucks on subs there are sooo many choices, everyone will tell you their own opinion and hopefully they are only giving you recommendations on gear they own (not just heard in one guys setup). Measure the distance between the floor of your trunk and the lowest point in the decklid and see if a 15 would even fit in there in the first place. If its right around 14-15" you should be able to fit it in there and you might wind up having to use a slanted box design to gain the additional space. If you are thinking about 15"s then remember that the RLP 15 is sweet too. I doubt you could fit two of em but one would be plenty for most people. Strickly by cone displacement a pair of 12"s with the same xmax as one 15 the 12"s will be louder. And very likely sound better because you typically have twice the motor power and power handling if you are using the same series of speaker. (note most companies use the same motor for the same series of subwoofer). one 15 will be a lot less expensive than 2 12's and you might want to save more money for things like sound dampening etc. I put over 300sqft (150lbs) of sound dampening in my little 3 series BMW and you can hardly hear road noise at 45mph on a gravel road! If you quite your interior by 3db you effectively made your system twice as loud. Plus this sounds better and people are less likely to jack your chit if they don't hear it. later, I'm working on my tower speakers today, maybe I'll post when they are done. Should be sweet, faux lizard skin baffle with suede rapped around the rest.

One of the most impressive things a person's stereo can do is get loud while playing low, if you don't tune low you can't get loud low. there is plenty of rap out there that has lots of low notes so if you subsonic filter them out or tune above them you won't hea that much more of the music. When your playing Luda or some three six you want to hear all of it right? tune to 28hz and you'll be fine, its likely you won't know the differnece if you tune to 34hz because you've never had another box tuned lower, but since I've had an RLP in many boxes I can honestly say that I like em tuned lower. My next rpl box for my home is going to be 1.9cubes tuned to 18hz. I loose output overall but gain extention (the ability to play a larger variety of frequencies. an 18hz tuning in a home is one thing but you don't need to go that low in a car. now all you have to do is pay mike and your box guy and your set

It works like this. Lets say your box is tuned to 32hz, and you are playing a note (sound) around this frequency your woofer will not be moving much and the port will have air moving like crazy. It sounds kinda counter intuitive but its how it works. When you play notes around and above 32hz the woofer with have back pressure (like a muffler) which is good this makes your subs feel controled and they have acoustic resistance because of the box. When you play a note below your tuning frequency the woofer acts like there is no box at all. If you have ever played a sub without a box you'll notice they can move very far with little power, people who tune their box to the mid 40 and then play a 25hz tone often hear their speakers bottom out like hell. So the point is that the lower you tune the less chance there is that you are going to be listening to music and suddenly bottom out your speakers. Since you listen to rap this is somewhat more important to you because there are tones that go down fairly low like 20ish. If you only listened to rock and country if you are a real tard you could be fine with a 40hz tuning. Don't worry about a 30lbs driver being too "SQ" RLP's can get plenty loud exp. two of em in a ported box with enough power. A lower tuning generally sounds better because it takes out some of the boomy sound in the mid 30's and lower 40's and adds extention to the lower notes. Keep in mind a box tuned to 26hz will play 28hz way louder than a box tuned to 34hz. It all depends on how low the music goes you are listening to. And yes a subsonic filter could help your situation, if you want really loud and decent sq tune to 32-34hz and use a subsonic filter. did that help? b

seeing how it's going in a car you will need to provide the maximum dimensions that it will eventually fit into as well as any smaller pinch points that tell you how big it can be to fit through the intial hole in the trunk. Height depth width etc. you might want to leave at least a .5" gap because if you had your box tight agains your deck lid it could rattle even more. Who is building your box? local in CT? I could send you a flat kit and then all you would have to do would be get large wood clamps and glue the whole thing together (this might sound odd but many kits are done like this). If you want your box to look really nice have them do a flush mounting baffle and a center slot port, that way the subs are equal distances from the port and the port acts as a brace. Unfortunatly shipping would probably be a major drawback (I'm 100 miles from Canada up in Idaho)

Oh man, that's crazy I've owned everything you have and still do. I had a 10" round solo a long time ago, I still use my PPI PC2150 every day (and I've ran it at 2ohms mono for 7 years). I have a 12" RLP and I'm still in love with it (had it since last March) and I have an IDmax (almost as good sq as the RLP but it's a bit louder) and it has another inch and a half of mounting depth so that's a drawback in nearly all cases. (my max only cost me 150, 50broken then 100recone) One nice thing about an RLP is that 99% of the people that own em are happy with em and would consider buying them again. I've owned lots of subs and the RLP is one of them that I actually like. Most subs just don't impress me, they might boom a little but the ability to play clean quick low and loud are hard to come by. buy one and build a killer box, the amp you have should be fine I use the same one and it doesn't get too hot, but the rlp could take more power of you want.

If you can't build boxes you should find someone to help you, if you are anywhere near Spokane, WA then I'll build you a box and charge a minimal amount. Oh, your post reminds me, i just heard a pair of RE SE's off of 200 watts and it was far louder and cleaner than I expected, and during the group buy you could get em for like 70bones each. But if you can afford a pair of RLP's then you will be really happy and your car will get loud at really low frequencies, (its easy to get loud at 45hz) but when your car is loud at 25 then you really have something. try tuning to the low 30's or upper 20s and you'll get loud. later, b

If you are anywhere near northern Idaho I'll build you a box for material cost plus $15 per hour for labor. I know what I'm doing and I don't screw people on labor. Check out my post about the Kove armaggedons in a Wicked one, I charged my friend a total of $360 for that box including all materials and labor ($254). Try doing that box in a normal shop and they'll tell you to round up $750 then come talk to them. I never screw people on labor and I can get the box lineXed for a reasonable price (maybe $70) I overbuild all my boxes, double mounting rings, bracing, large ports etc. later, b If you are interested in a boxes I've already built for my RLp12. I have a .58cu sealed box with about a 10 degree slant on the front wall carpeted, bracing, etc. ($45) And a 2 cu ft ported box tuned to 30hz I can't remember all the dimensions but let me know if you need em. ($70) The problem with these is that shipping could be very expensive.

what it looks like to me is that you are becoming progressivly more deaf as you go through some great subs. Personally any of those subs you had should have been really loud and sounded great. do you still have any of them? if so you might just pick up another IDmax and run a ported box in the low 30's. If you don't currently have any subs I would go with a pair of IDmax's because they are louder than the rlp's and they still sound really good (keep in mind I've owned both drivers for over a year). The max's are a bit more abuse friendly than the rlp's too. JL's just aren't nearly as good as most people think, and they're not worth the money. Put the Max's in 2.3 cubes each tuned to the low 30's with a ton of bracing and get ready for dampning your trunk. Try to make the port at least 20 sq inches for each sub. How are your box building skills.

go for it, it will fit and sound great too. I've heard a few cars like that and the sound really sounds good up front like that. You're not going to get any bass cancelling issues within a car, just look at how long the wavelenth is. I wound up putting a 12" RLP behind the passanger seat of my 2 door bmw and it sounds great and I managed a bit over 1 cube. Search the forum for it if you want keywords bmw and rlp. If you want to make it look good and save space you'll be doing a bit of glass work. That box of mine was the first time I did glass and although it was a pain in the ass it turned out well. later, keep updating pics

I think the round port wouldn't really help with the tuning prediction because the top and bottom of the outer circle of the port would be different lengths from the back slanted wall too. I would guess that you could run the port with the same slant as the back of the box and then measure from the center of the portslot (from bottom to top) which would give you a better estimate of length (just like calculating volume in a wedge box). Sweet box but with a 50lbs driver I would have went with a double baffle (or at least double thick mounting ring) the bracing looks sweet. If I ever buy an rls my box will be rediculously overbuilt and heavy as hell 1.25" everywhere and bracing all over the damn place. good work, do you really think you need more power? that sub looks like it was moving pretty well. Were you running into clipping?