haydenlake

I should mention that by home app. I didn't specifically mean home theater but more along the lines of music. I just wanted to indicate the sub is not going to be used inside a car thus changing my box size and tuning. thanks, b

Thanks, just wanted to mention that its been done for a few weeks now and I'm thinking about writing an IDMAX/Rl-p comparison just for kicks. It sounds freaking amazing thanks MIKE!

Way late but as promised here are a few pics, sorry it took so long and even if you don't know it all you guys on the forum have helped me in some way or another. The idea was to obviously keep a sub inside the car (like my 8's that were in there before) those of you who know BMW trunks understand why. Keeping it stealth was a main focus hence the flat black paint it really blends it into the car. Any and all comments are welcome, keep in mind I designed it to be way stiff, sound great, and astetics came in last. I estimate that it is around 1.2 net after polyfill. I set it on top of my 1.5 cu ft net box and it was fairly close. Later, b

Hey guys, thanks for the help, I'll have to do some research on ABC enclosures (any hints as to how they perform diff than a slot ported enclosure?) Any hints as to good info on ABC enclosures I tried a T line with my 8" A/D/S/ 308's and they def go way deeper but I don't think it sounds any better than a ported box. Meaning I dont really want to try a T line for my ID Max. Denim did you ever build one of those deathboxes or was that someone else? Check out my fiberglassed RL-p inside my car in the other forum section.

Hm, I can't say that I know what a ABC enclosure is. Are you talking about a horn? Just for ref I listen to all types of music, the sub will be used in a large room, and the box can't be bigger than (roughly) 40X16x17" Thanks, b

Sorry this took so long It's done now 1 12" IDMax in 3.2 tuned to ~24hz Thanks to Beerman for the calc it worked great Braced, milkshaken terminal cups, flush mount, double mouting baffle, rounded edges on everything, small amount of stuffing, NOTE THIS IS MY SECOND REAL BOX so don't be too harsh. It sounds great, the only problem is that things inside the house rattle so much it just doesn't sound clean at high volume. later, b

Not to jack the thread or anything but what would you rec as far as a SQ ported box for an RL-P 12, a bit bigger? I'm not sure I'm still toying around with making a transmission line for the Rl-p just for fun but I might put my IDMAX in that instead, since I just made a fiberglass box for my SS

Thanks for the input! Today I ran my boat for 30 min at 3400rpm's so the bats would charge a little, I don't know how long it takes to really charge em since they were fairly charged when I got them. So then I turned off the boat and ran the stereo for an hour and thrity min's and according to the volt meter on my sub amp (as well as my multi meter) the voltage only decreased from 12.7 to 12.6 in that amount of time. I figure this is pretty good since the volume was right below distorting on the subs as well as mains. (I could hear it inside my friends car two house's down! Sweet!

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting battery and then (somewhere I don't know where, whereever the factory grounds it). Questions -Is this wrong, if so help -I read somewhere you have to have you're second battery grounded (somewhere near, vs wired to the first battery) or else it won't charge, is this true. -Although it would be a pain in the ass I could try to run a ground from my aftermarket bat to a ground in the motor, (this goes for my amps too. Should I do this, if so will it make much differece. Notes, My old set up (1 original battery 5 years old) is being drawn on my an Audiobahn 1800d (supposedly 1800rms) and a very small kenwood amp. When the bass hits the volt meter really shows it, I don't know if it will still do that now bc my subs are at my friends house and I wanted to ask a few q's before I really taxed the electrical q -The inital wiring (one battery and both amps was done my a reputable shop in town, they didn't ground the amps to anything but the battery; again I'm wondering if this is okay) -as it is now the boat works perfectly (both batteries and I only hear my small kenwood bc my subs aren't in yet) Thanks guys, you really help out. B

For resin try a local marina they usually have way better prices than stores like home depot and lowes. As far as chop mat, I got a great deal from cardomain. They only charge like 5 bucks for one package that is a TON of mat. I haven't put it on a scale but each package is easily over five pounds. The shipping is going to run like 10 or 11 bones so that's why I ordered a grip of mat at once (I ordered five packages). If you want to buy one of these packages from me I'm open to that bc I have way too much. Note it is 1.5oz mat. I'll try to post pics of my new box soon. pm me or email at haydenlake@gmail if you want

Thanks, but does that mean I shouldn't mount my sub until the smell is gone? Do you know if resin/fiberglass vapors are harmful to the sub (I ask bc people say don't mount a sub until the silicone is dry etc.) thanks, b

Okay, sorry I can't upload pics of my fiberglass project right now (I'll try later) but I had a question. The situation -didn't use enough hardner on the fleece and it was still gooey when I came back 24 hrs later. -I tried just smearing plain hardner on the sticky resin and that seemed to work okay -then I made my next batch of resin pretty hot (meaning lots of hardner) and layed two layers of 1.5oz. Now the fiberglass is as stiff as normal and when I stick my hand in the box and move it around I don't get anything wet or sticky, but its still smells like resin really bad (its been dry for 20 hrs) The questions: "how long does resin continue to smell." "Does a completely dry and finished fiberglass box smell at all? If I use some milkshake and run it around on the inside would this help seal my problem? "Do the vapors of resin deteriorate rubbers and other foams like those of silicone" Meaning I shouldn't even mount my sub if it still smells right? Thanks guys, pics soon I promise b

Alpine type r's are not too bad, but I wouldn't pay anywhere full retail. As far as the best sounding sub for the money (that can play fairly loud) I would say get a Kappa Perfect (I've found them for 100 buck consistently. Keep in mind you have a few more expenses to think of, like amp install (pro or DIY, wires etc) box. and well amp obviously. If you can find an older version (most likely all you can find anyway) of adire audio's tempest, those are great for the money (esp considering how loud you can get with em). You shouldn't pay more than 150 bc that is what they retailed for. (keep in mind their website shows the new ones which are more expensive). 400 bucks isnt' much but here are some other options Diamond Audio M6 15" (always on ebay for $192) Diamond Audio M6 12" (around 150 I think) check out cbrstereo.com they always have nice last years stuff check out car domain they have older image dynamics 15's for 63 bills, you might be able to afford two of them. I'f you want loud for the money you almost have to go with a 15 (and if you want it louder then port it) later, b

Okay the title says it all. This summer i'm going to put my RL-P in a fiberglass box (my first one, and yes I'm doing lots of research now). My question has to do with the compostion of the box. I've heard that nearly all fiberglass boxes contian quite a bit of wood (the glass is usually just for an ascetic front) and I've heard that 100% fiberglass (minus the mounting ring) usually sound really bad or "hollow". With that said, do you agree (considering the glass will he hella stiff, I'm going to overkill this thing). If including wood does make it sound better, do you have any rough estimates on percentage. Could I get away with glassing in and exposing a few sections of wood, think rib cage here (I think that would help strenght as well as acoustics. Thanks, B Oh and Jelly, good job on your glassin, I've learned a lot.

So why is the sub with 10mm less xmax louder? Can anyone explain, I just don't get it. I'm assuming that he has enough power to make the RL-P's move to their potential, so why are they not louder. (is the 1db in efficiency the reason?)

Hey eric I just ran the math for a 2 cuft box tuuned to 34hz (diver disp .18) external width 30" External height 13.5. And my math came out very close (at 2.186) (note I rounded a tiny bit and this is perfect since the driver displaces .18) so I'd say its legit, another guy on a forum said he just followed exactly what it said and he really liked it. -oh one more thing, keep in mind if you are going to use bracing you should def include this in the driver displacement collum

Yeah, I was hoping there was an option to manipulate the vent area. I sent the guy an email but he hasn't responded yet (I'll let you know later if there is an option). The best way I've figured out to increase port area with this program is to increase the height of the box. Sometime this might not be practical but who knows. later, b

I just though I might make a post about this guy's website I found. He's an active member of a few different forums and it looks like he knows his stuff. So put down your beer and pencil and just start clicking. If it looks like the program isn't functioning it is probably becuase you are asking for a F3 that is too low for the size of the box, etc. It even tells you the dimensions to cut, how easy is this? Later, b http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/l-ported-box.htm

By all the stats and reputation of US Amps I think they are great but my god the grafics and images on the amps make them look more like legacy or something cheap. Clean up in that department (which shouldn't cost to much) cosmetics are really important to customers. Just my opinion but I'm guessing other people feel the same way. b

Okay thanks, but how does this explain rms power (I thought that was the continous power going out of the amp and only the signal changed)? thanks, b

Would the subs be receiving different amounts of power? Or were you asking about the age old "headroom" question? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes I meant the subs would be receiving differerent amounts of power, but if you can explain headroom the I would appreciate that as well. Thanks, -if they were receiving different amounts of power does that mean they couldn't be moving the same amount?

I totally agree that sound quality is way more important that overall excursion. My RP-L 12 is in a tiny enclosure (.55 ft^3) and I'm wondering how much power compression it is undergoing as well as how that small box is limiting its excursion capabilities. In comparison to the vids mine moves just as much or more, but I still don't know how hard those other guys were pushing their subs (video is not such a great medium for this kind of thing). My sub (maybe) starts distorting when driven hard, but I think this is the amp clipping. I was just trying to figure out which it is. The reason my RL-P is in such a small box is bc I have it on the inside of the car not in the trunk (BMW trunks kill bass) -before you slam me for running it in such a small enclosure, I have to say it sounds really good. It's super accurate and goes pretty deep (obviously not as deep as when I put it in 1.5ft^3) but that box is hardly going to fit behind the passanger seat. the amp I'm running is the old series PPI PC2150 (when PPI was making good stuff) it probably puts out around 600wrms. -if anyone could answer another question I would really appreciate it. If you had two identical subs and boxes playing the same frequecy and they were both moving the same amount but they were powered by different size amps would one sub be louder than the other. (consider the amps and subs well within their operating capabilities). -thanks b

First of all let it be known that I'm super happy with my RL-P and I've had it for 3 months now, so I'm not trying to bash SS. But I was watching a few vids on Realmofexcursion and it just doesn't look like SS's move all that much for a sub with a rated xmax of 24mm. In comparison to other subs out there that have less rated excursion it looks like the SS's move even less than these. -is it because the SS vids just are not showing full excursion? -I don't have a video camera -yes the RL-I 10 vid shows the most movement but why not someone with a RL-P 12 thanks, and remember I mean no offense b

I've owned both subs and I would agree. The ID Max is louder (and is more able to be abused) but the RL-P just sounds better. For a sub you want to listen to (vs. one you want to punish and make your whole car shake) go with the RL-P. Keep in mind if you didn't like the ID Max that very well could have been a combination of things (car, box, amp, etc.) The RL-P is capable of going into smaller boxes than an ID-Max.

I agree with everyone, they aren't blowing smoke. I've owned JL products (the old W6 and the newer V2) and I like the SS way more. Louder, clearer, and when you look at the construction it makes JL look more like fosgate. The only sub that I have heard/owned that has the SQ over a Rlp (and yes I own an rlp) is a A/D/S/ 3 series, they are not nearly as loud but they sound sweet. For 250 new there is no better sub. I've heard a few W7's and I don't really see whats the big deal! I've owned (PPI flats, Rockford hx2, Jl W6old W6new, A/D/S/, Infinity Kappa, Adire shiva, and a couple others not worth mentioning. later, b you won't have any trouble with 600 watts, sealed or ported