sqjeep

Great Sub choice and welcome to SSA

The 1k is his budget

As in front stage im talking about the front speakers. ( doors and tweets)?

First off What is your budget?? Are u doing anything with the front stage?? There is absolutely nothing wrong with undering powering the subwoofer. With that being said u have to be careful the amps gains so u dont send the sub a clipped signal. Clipped signal = good bye sub

Welcome to the SSA

switched amps and its gone!!! i was wondering how u ground the rcas???

im hoping not cause its an ESX

yes and no if i would fade it to the buzzing side the buzzing came more pronounced and when it faded it all the way to the opposite side the buzzing goes away. Im going to try a different amp i have laying around it see if it stops

I recently have gotten an old school amp and when i hooked it up on monday everything sounded great. Yesterday i go out and start play i hear a buzzing/static sound coming from the driverside. so I turn up the volume and did a fade from left to right and the sound was only coming from the driver side. I went and cut the speaker wire and ground wire to give it a fresh end and it that seemed to stop it. An hour later went out the sound was back so i swaped the rcas around took channel ones rca and plug it into channel two and vice versa. Im going out now to see if that worked and ill let u know.... nope it is still ther but it seems to get softer as it plays but as soon as i restart the truck it happens again.. What do u guys think could be the problem??

U dont have to mod the amp to use the controls up front. On a class D just turn the xover knob toward the high frequencies and then set the headunit xover.

Yes they are rated at 800 watts RMS and if u now how to use your gain and volume knob they can take up to about 1000 Watts but no more. If you are just looking for loud i wouldnt put the copper coils on I would do flat wound coils and if u want more than a 1000 watts from that sub you could put the BP power on it and it can do additional 200 - 500 watts of power. Box size i think should be 2.5 cuft tuned at 32Hz

Need a little more info.. Are u going to have 1 amp on 1 sub sub?? Or are you going to have the amps strapped and have the subs wired together?? -- in this state the lowest impedance can only be 2 ohms!!

U will be very happy these sub are built like tanks. Nick that works over at FI has an SSD in a 1.1 sealed and giving it 950 watts and the review written about the SSD the guy was giving it a 1000watts. Not saying you can't. I just wouldn't personally. Fi does underrate their subs though. Anyway, the OP won't be sending that much to the sub so nobody has to worry I totally get what you are saying, i just want to say that cause he was talking about putting the bp option on it.

U will be very happy these sub are built like tanks. Nick that works over at FI has an SSD in a 1.1 sealed and giving it 950 watts and the review written about the SSD the guy was giving it a 1000watts.

I am looking at getting the Dual 1 version of the sub and getting the Audioque AQ1200d (870w RMS @ 2 ohms). I have a stock electrical system but plan on doing the big 3 upgrade. I may would like to get the BP power but I think that is going to be over my budget ($250 total for sub). As of right now im running an audioque 1200d on a dual 1 FI SSD with copper coils. I have it on my jeeps stock electrical and with it all running I drop to about 13.6 and it sounds amazing. The SSD with the copper coils in a 1.1 cuft sealed box can handle up to about 1000 watts. If u get that amp I would not put the bp option on it.

The manufactor says 3cuft box with a 4" x 13.5" aero port... That would be tuned at 26hz with and f3 of 25hz here is the link to the manufactures page crsytal cmpx15

We need a little more info... do u have an amp?? if so what amp is it?? Are u running stock electrical??

Welcome to SSA Here just email Nick that works over a fi and he would be gladly to help u. His Email is [email protected] Ive personally have had no problem with fi customer service.

My father (Ford Freak) posted the pics over there. But those are the pics of the two 2 amps. But like he said im getting the bottom one (175.2) replace because it flickers in and out of protect.

i cant find the t/s specs to punch in the program by chance do u have them?? NVM i found it heres the link crystal cmpx215 specs

When u run the amp in tri mode the final impedance for the speakers has to be 4ohm. with that being said the speakers impedance has to be dual 2 ohm, dual 8ohm, or single 4 ohm. also u dont want to mix impedances. it says it puts out 100 watts by 3 at 12v so u can expect a little more when ur voltage is higher. a good average is about 15% more power at 14.4

My son just picked up an ESX q60.4 and a q175.2 yesterday. Has anyone ever had either of these benched? What realistic power do they put out? How about with upgrades?

1. Capacitor are more harmful than they are good. but if u still want to use it let us know and we will tell u how to wire it. 2. Yes. Cause the power block protects only ur amps. so u will need one close to the battery big enough to protect the entire system. and u might need a ground block but that al depends if u are running different gauage wires. Ex. 0awg from batt to distr. and 4awg to amps than u will need a ground block. but if u use a straight run of 4 awg then u will not need a ground block. 3. run the rca from the headunit then take the neg side of it and put on the splitter and do the same for the pos. side now u will have 2 sets of rcas.

^^^^like cutra said^^^^

Glad i could help