Spencerk

sounds to me like you have a dead short... that would be the only thing that would pull that much current. Clamp it i know youve got some laying around..... clamp it then plug in the fuse and see what shes pulling.....

I dont know the eff. of this amp but I ran the #'s at 80% @ 13volts bc you proly wont hold perfect 14.4 at this power but.........314 for the amp then the car will need at least 50 so just say 375 amps, I dont think they make single units at that size so your going to need to get 2 alts. Unless you just want to burp this thing then just get 2 group 31 batts and play loud for 10 seconds at a time

I am looking at getting a decent setup for a bedroom. I don't want wires everywhere and space is an issue, so i was looking at a sound bar or the Bose 3-2-1 setup. Does anyone know if either of these are any good? I don't know much about home audio, any input is greatly appreciated.

Sry I got Ahead of myself....is this RMS or Peak power??? and what type of car? Some newer cars have ECU controlled voltage regulators that may or may be on a delay, depending on current inrush to the source...IF you do have something like this you will need batts to support the amp until the delay timer excites the stator.

To play a system of that size you will need about 275 amps of power if you plan on running this thing continuous. PLUS what the car will need so maybe like 350 amps total (im running these numbers in my head just a estimate) SO a 350 amp alt..... and the amount of batts you run will depend on the amount of reserve time your looking for

Well then I guess I need to get a meter..... has anybody on here tried those meter you can hook up to a DMM and get a read out look it up on the lil chart thing and get a db read out ( don't know the name or make of them)

Mechanical failure is when something physically breaks on the woofer. Like the spiders rip, tinsels break, seals rip, coil former bottoms out and becomes deformed. ect...... im sure someone else will jump in and explain more, beyond my knowledge of the subject

What is the average gain you would get from a mid size trunk car???? Like my car....and how do you calc. this out??

All this VCM does is turn your cars electrical system into a constant voltage variable current system instead of the constant current variable voltage system we all have now

I have two Rockford 2500 bd1 that I want to hook up to this woofer? is it ok to get them dual one ohm and hook up one amp to one of the terminals and the other amp to the other terminal??? Thanks NO unless by some grace of god you can guaranty that both amps will put out the EXACT same amperage and voltage, you need to buy a bigger amp or just use one one of those should be about 3k that would be a good match for that sub

That box is the EXACT size boox that I have for my BL.....weird

Whatever set up you decide on you should do whatever you can to get the most air flowing around your box and back into your cabin.

if ya dont want to give out someones screen names then at least give us the name of that amp??????????

forgot to mention to do the BIG 3 no matter what you pick for an amp

Well what kind of cash are you looking to spend??? You could go with this or this just for efficiency I would go with the 12'' and go ported, a proerly built ported enclosure can still be tight and punchy for country and rock but rumble away on rap and will give you the most system efficiency. as for an amp I would look here you can sundown amps just as good as new for cheap. maybe something like a SAZ 1000 just keep it gained back a bit.

Something like an ssd 10 in a small ported box or sealed.....???? wait first what kind of music do you like to lessen to? and if you go with a 600 watt amp your stock Electrical should be fine I thnk your car has a 130 amp alt in it, and if she isn't into loud music you could get a smaller amp 300-500 watts

Alton makes a good point, my bad for not asking SPL or SQ???? I just say BL bc I have one in my Taurus on 2K and I beat the $hit out of it everyday and she takes with a smile on her face

Keep in mind that an HO alt is only going to put out around 125 ish or so at idle. So the extra bats will be needed to sustain at low RPM, Replace the stock under the hood with the bigest one you can fit and two in the trunk. If you are looking to do a 4K set-up properly saving weight is going to be a tall order.....thats like asking for a dragster to run 8's and still get 35 mpg

get a BL it will gladly take 1400 watts that Q may take it but it proly wont like it very much

holy crap i have been on here for a lil over 6 hours .....................im a losser

either im lost or your lost......why do you want to upgrade your wiring harness to you alt??

Hey np man.....I forgot to mention that 277 amps was at 100% amp efficiency so a more realistic number would be around 330 to 350

I know lucky 76 likes fluke bc his pops woks for them, but they make sweet meters i myself have about 9k$ in fluke products in my tool box, but I need it for my job. That Triplett should be fine for you. cant wait to see how that works for you I wanted to get a cheapie for round the house

Are you looking to do burps or do you want to listen to your 4k for more than 30 seconds???? at 4K you are going to need 277 amps PLUS whatever that car will need if you want to play for extended amounts of time, and thats at 14.4 volts. Your looking at a dual alt set up for sure but if you just want to burp the get two more batts.

Yeah now that you said something and it is house wiring which is not good in car audio. Correct me if Im wrong but from my understanding the reason why house wire strands are so thick is because the current flows in the strands. Whereas in car audio the current flows around the outside of the strands. I had a two friends who messed up their amps using this wire, not only was it hard to work with too. You might want to get you some welding wire (weldingsupply.com or weldingdepot.com). No AC or DC it make no difference. Electrons flow over the surface of wire.... home wire usually has less strands bc its cheaper to produce and you are normally dealing with less current in residential applications.