TechSys

Thanks for the info. Will be, hopefully, doing business with you soon.

I am seriously looking at the MLD 18s right now, for a complete rebuild of my van. What are the T/S parameters of the MLD 18s as well as the recommended enclosure sizes? Thanks in advance.

I use both of them, but like the older one better.

Real simple/basic design. Top/bottom (green): 34x16 Back (yellow): 34x10.5 Right Side (red): 15.25c10.5 Left Side(blue): 14.5x10.5 Baffle(gray): 31.25x10.5 Port(purple): 10.25x10.5 2.52Ft^3 after sub and port displacement. 21sq. in port, 11" long for 33.47Hz tuning. I could probably mess with this a little more to get it closer to 33Hz flat. Without the height, width, and depth measurements of where you'll be putting the enclosure, it's kind of hard to make a design.

O.k. let's think here for a minute... If you're traveling in a vehicle at 50mph and suddenly come to a stop due to an accident whether it's your fault or not, the loose items in your vehicle can AND will continue traveling at 50mph until they slow down, or hit something(you, your seat, the windshield, or whatever). Now imagine, if you will, a 50+lb enclosure pinning you between the steering wheel. You'll be lucky if you survive. Please secure all enclosures for your safety

Little things can make a bit of difference. The way the enclosure is angled. If the seats fold forward (or backward). The sun visors being down or up. The way you sit in the vehicle while testing. This is pretty much why Shizzzon was saying that about owning a TL. Without one you'll probably never get enough time on a meter to get things like you want. Take for example. You could position the enclosure .25" towards the passenger side of the front window and gain .5dB OR you could lose 1dB. Without owning a meter you'd not know if you gained or lost. As close as you are to a 150, every little small adjustment will make a difference. Some will lose, some will gain.

I should do this. I've been wanting to "upgrade" my system (get rid of all the old stuff) for a long time now.

It wasn't the sub, unless there was a manufacturing issue (which is very likely). I've seen the XXX subs on 2 6500D amps at 18volts without any problems. Burnt coils is due to misuse. Plain and simple. Could be dirty power coming from the amps at a certain volume level. He is probably turning it up to high and doesn't realize it (listening to the system while driving with the windows down. Turning it up to hear it over the other noises). And why would anybody in their right mind get a recone from PAP? Jeezus, shoulda went to Pyramid, it'd probably be better quality. So, I'm leaning towards user error on this. No, I'm not saying that cause I'm sponsored by SoundStream. 9 times out of 10 a blown sub is caused by user error.

25' 4/0 red, 10' 4/0 black, unless you have a battery bank, then make sure you get enough of each to jump between batteries. 100' 8 gauge red and black. 10gauge will work just fine though, especially if the tinsels are 10g.

Kinda what I said. Wrong bolts = wrong grade. Easy fix. Just hope there isn't any other little problems that may turn nasty when you get them reinstalled.

I can imagine. Now get the pressure from behind the subs and into the cabin.. hahaha. It's good that DD is working on the problem though. Maybe you found a weak point in their subs. I don't know, just saying.

Thing must be loud to break the bolts holding the motors, unless they skimped on the grade of bolt holding the subs together.

You could overload it going that route. But you might be able to put a better microphone on it so it'd do better. Just an idea.

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