TechSys

Thanks for the info. Will be, hopefully, doing business with you soon.

I am seriously looking at the MLD 18s right now, for a complete rebuild of my van. What are the T/S parameters of the MLD 18s as well as the recommended enclosure sizes? Thanks in advance.

I use both of them, but like the older one better.

Real simple/basic design. Top/bottom (green): 34x16 Back (yellow): 34x10.5 Right Side (red): 15.25c10.5 Left Side(blue): 14.5x10.5 Baffle(gray): 31.25x10.5 Port(purple): 10.25x10.5 2.52Ft^3 after sub and port displacement. 21sq. in port, 11" long for 33.47Hz tuning. I could probably mess with this a little more to get it closer to 33Hz flat. Without the height, width, and depth measurements of where you'll be putting the enclosure, it's kind of hard to make a design.

O.k. let's think here for a minute... If you're traveling in a vehicle at 50mph and suddenly come to a stop due to an accident whether it's your fault or not, the loose items in your vehicle can AND will continue traveling at 50mph until they slow down, or hit something(you, your seat, the windshield, or whatever). Now imagine, if you will, a 50+lb enclosure pinning you between the steering wheel. You'll be lucky if you survive. Please secure all enclosures for your safety

Little things can make a bit of difference. The way the enclosure is angled. If the seats fold forward (or backward). The sun visors being down or up. The way you sit in the vehicle while testing. This is pretty much why Shizzzon was saying that about owning a TL. Without one you'll probably never get enough time on a meter to get things like you want. Take for example. You could position the enclosure .25" towards the passenger side of the front window and gain .5dB OR you could lose 1dB. Without owning a meter you'd not know if you gained or lost. As close as you are to a 150, every little small adjustment will make a difference. Some will lose, some will gain.

I should do this. I've been wanting to "upgrade" my system (get rid of all the old stuff) for a long time now.

It wasn't the sub, unless there was a manufacturing issue (which is very likely). I've seen the XXX subs on 2 6500D amps at 18volts without any problems. Burnt coils is due to misuse. Plain and simple. Could be dirty power coming from the amps at a certain volume level. He is probably turning it up to high and doesn't realize it (listening to the system while driving with the windows down. Turning it up to hear it over the other noises). And why would anybody in their right mind get a recone from PAP? Jeezus, shoulda went to Pyramid, it'd probably be better quality. So, I'm leaning towards user error on this. No, I'm not saying that cause I'm sponsored by SoundStream. 9 times out of 10 a blown sub is caused by user error.

25' 4/0 red, 10' 4/0 black, unless you have a battery bank, then make sure you get enough of each to jump between batteries. 100' 8 gauge red and black. 10gauge will work just fine though, especially if the tinsels are 10g.

Kinda what I said. Wrong bolts = wrong grade. Easy fix. Just hope there isn't any other little problems that may turn nasty when you get them reinstalled.

I can imagine. Now get the pressure from behind the subs and into the cabin.. hahaha. It's good that DD is working on the problem though. Maybe you found a weak point in their subs. I don't know, just saying.

Thing must be loud to break the bolts holding the motors, unless they skimped on the grade of bolt holding the subs together.

You could overload it going that route. But you might be able to put a better microphone on it so it'd do better. Just an idea.

XS Power - Lasting longer than the Energizer Bunny

It's always good to have XS Power XS Power - You need it, we got it. XS Power - the trouble with being the best is never having to prove it XS Power - People who say you can't buy happiness just don't know where to shop If at first you don't succeed, get XS Power.

I found a place on Ebay that has it in US currency, however, $74.90 plus $9s/h. Still in Hong Kong though, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=320653338283&nma=true&rt=nc&si=pJwiHOkQkMcJeuNmtfkuST4h52M%253D

LEDglow, as far as I know, does not offer anything but the aux input/line level on any of their kits. I just checked and it looks like even the $180 kit only has a sensor/microphone. You possibly could use a controller from a different brand, but buying the controller itself will probably cost just as must as buying the whole kit. I even checked Oznium (even though I usually buy from LedGlow), to see if they have a separate controller to do what you want. Nope. The only thing I can find, and it's in Hong Kong and uses GBP currency is LedBo. It sells for $35.99 GBP plus $9 s/h http://cgi.ebay.com/5m-5050-RGB-LED-Light-Set-Music-Audio-Input-Controller-/220781736344?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item33679df198 If you can find a US dealer for it, that may be the thing you need. You also might have to modify the kit you currently have a little bit (cutting power wires to match to the controller). Not sure though.

^^^ This You said Kicker CVX's, and you want 4 15s, correct? That's going to take 7.2 to 20.8 sealed OR 12.0 to 20.0 ported. You have, with the measurements you posted in the first post, 17.129 ft^3 I would honestly go with 4 12s in a ported box since the recommended is 8.75 ft^3. Gives you plenty of room to put your amp(s), batteries, and whatever else AND will get loud in the properly designed enclosure.. God I just woke up. I hope that makes some sense.

Right now, from what I understand, it's only in a few cities/counties here. Kind of sucks though, cause I ain't down south. Still, I wouldn't turn it up loud. They can/will pull you over for something else just to screw up your day. Think about it, $100 loud noise violation or more for something else. Alan knows how the cops in Florida are. hahaha.

I wasn't trying to make it look like you were trying to scam anybody Shizzzon. I guess I must have typed it the wrong way. Sorry for that. Yes, the ones that I mentioned can take up to a month to receive. I got mine from China for $7.99 shipped. It does have a POT in it. I am not sure of the accuracy but do know they'll go up to 19.5 volts. Shizzzon's meters look to be better built. His are fully encased where the ones that I've mentioned are not. This isn't a big thing, but, it is worth mentioning. A difference between the one Shizzzon and I are talking about, and ones from companies like Stinger, is no remote wire. Stinger has a remote turn on wire, these don't. Not a big deal either, but still, I thought it's worth mentioning. (wait a minute, do I see a white wire on Shizzzon's meter? If so... his has the remote wire.) All in all, you'll be better off with the ones he is offering.

Nothing against Shizzon, but... kraz3one, you can get the one you posted the image of on Ebay for $7-$8 with free shipping. I've got one and it works great. I just need to get aorund to removing the stinger meter I got and installing that one permanently.

I see you used sketchup, but what did you use for recording the screen? I used VLC to record. Seemed to come out pretty good. It says it's 1080p but I haven't tried it on the flatscreen yet. Keep up the videos man. They look great.

What are you tuned to? Right around 26 but peaks at 45

That is the reason why I said it may work for some and not for others. As far as my application. I needed a quick way to do my roof in the van (1989 chevy astro). When I first installed the system the roof looked like a tidal wave, when the bass hit. One layer of the stuff took care of that. Yes, it did still move but no where near what it was before. Plus it was a lot quieter after the installation of it. And I might be wrong on something. I did say I used Protect-O-Wrap. If I remember right it is a Hybrid Butyl product. I am not 100% sure on that and am looking for the specs to see. I am wrong.... Found the info on the stuff I used. I probably could have used the super stick building tape as it's a hybrid butyl and is 45mil.

You're right. There's the proper way to accomplish a goal, and then the improper way. PNS and equivalent products fall (pun intended) into the latter category. For you, yea. For me... it isn't a fall or fail if it lasted 3+ years and worked great while being where it was.