hondakilla98

Looking good Lunchbox, doing it big as always I see.

Everything but the Kenwood deck is sold. Price dropped to $125 shipped on it.

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It's a bare driver, no box. I'm trading some sa10's and ported box for it. I'll hook it up and at least try it free air.

I'm working on trading for a soundstream xxx 15. It still has the tarantula on the dust cap, so I'm assuming it hasn't been reconed. Were there any different versions? Are they all made by TC. Anything I need to look at besides measuring the coils, checking the color of the coil, and checking for any mechanical noise?

Have you decided what you're going to run for drivers? In the wall?

$150

Have you contacted id yet? I'm curious to hear what they have to say. Nice build and good looking rig.

Awesome "small build". I'll definitely be watching this.

ixa-w407 or 9886 with pxa-h100 pm me or check my for sale thread for pics and info

Sweet build and fast progress.

I've decided to go with one SI BM MKIV 12" in a slightly shallower box. It should net around .4 cu ft.

I'd rather spend money on a sub box or different sub, than cut the panels. They only made 35,000 cars over 3 years. So parts are expensive and hard to find. And I like the idea of it looking all stock except for the deck. Making people wonder how it sounds so good with "no sub". I'm open to suggestions. I guess I could also use two cheap shallow 10's in MDF boxes.

It's behind the rear seat arm rest insert. So, not a flat surface. It's possible, but I'm trying to not modify any of the interior. I saw one where he removed the arm rest insert and made an MDF ring that was wrapped in grill cloth. He was also running a ported fiberglass box. The cheap and easy solution is to build a slightly shallower box and put a 12" SI BM MKIV in it. That would give me 12" cone area with a sub that prefers around .5 cu ft. And the box could be 1" shallower.

I tried to install the passenger side sub box. I don't think it's going to work. If the sub didn't stick an inch out of the box before excursion, then maybe. But I think it's going to hit the trim panel. I have it wired up and belted into the back seat for now. It sounds pretty good. Now my options are to make a thinner box with a thinner sub. Or buy a 1 cu ft fiberglass box and run one SD-2 10 on 400 watts. Or buy a 12" that's less than 5" deep for 1 cu ft fiberglass box. It's available for 2-8", 1-10", or 1-12".

Floor and tank brace sanded. Tank brace installed with ring terminals between it and the floor. One on each side. Everything wired up before I put the carpet back in.

I marked and filled the sub mounting holes, made jumper wires for subs, drilled a hole and fed my power wire into each box, made two 4 gauge ground wires, took out the fuel tank brace, hooked up the power wire and grounds to the amp. Tomorrow I'm going to silicone and mount the sub boxes in the car, reinstall the tank brace, put all the carpet back in the trunk, and put the defroster/tweeter covers back on the dash. Then Wednesday I can install the subs.

Here's the amp mounted. And most of the wiring hooked up.

That would be the easiest route, I dislike those type of amp terminals. I wish it had round 4 gauge terminals. Then I could just use reducers.

Maybe I'll just put another fuse in the trunk and have 4 gauge on the output.

Mocked up. Next I need to get 1/0 gauge wire into a flat 4 gauge terminal. Maybe I'll start cutting on an 1/0 ring terminal. Here's the end of the amp.

The N2 showed up today. The measurements listed are of the case not including the feet or terminals. So mounting it in the tank brace without cutting isn't happening. But it looks like it'll fit inside the spare tire well under the spare. I'm working on a mount now. This is better. Adjustments will be easier to access, since the spare is supposed to come out in a hurry.

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What are you getting?