hondakilla98

Great build. I've been gone to long. Congrats on the numbers.

4-8's have been suggested instead of 2-10's. While exploring that option, I found the Tang Band W8-740P. They are 8's that are 4.75" deep, 12mm xmax, only need .11 cu ft sealed, and if I buy 4 they are $74 each at parts express. http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w8-740p-8-subwoofer--264-854 I could run 4 of these sealed in a very small box, have more cone area than 2-10's, and similar power handling. TB says they will handle 300 watts on music, not that they would see that much on a regular basis. I'm only going to run 45 watts per channel for my front stage.

I ordered my GTO specific dash kit today, Scosche GM1597B. I won a set of Focal P165 V15 separates and Focal 165 CVX coaxials on ebay. I also ordered my Alpine KTP-445U and Pioneer AVH-X3600bhs from Amazon.

Most likely. The place sells old cars and parts. It is a 56 4 door. It's called big m auto in Williams, CA. http://www.bigmauto.com/

I'm trying to stay away from shallow mount. Another option I've found is the Dayton HO at 5" depth. It's happy in .7 cu ft.IB off the rear deck is possible, but not with much output. There's room for shallow 8's, which isn't enough cone area for me. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462that dayton? maybe you ment the 8"? 5.37" depth and has a pole vent. maybe with some fiberglass work you could make it work. the only point in favor of the shallow mount is that you could go with a 12" so you might not loose much displacement. try modeling them. what about pairs of 8s for each side? dayton ho 8, jbl gto804, shit like that? I hadn't looked at the specs. Just saw it listed on a forum as 5", obviously that was wrong. I'll look into shallow 12's that work in .7

In a GTO? If I had fiberglass skills I might do that.

I'm trying to stay away from shallow mount. Another option I've found is the Dayton HO at 5" depth. It's happy in .7 cu ft. IB off the rear deck is possible, but not with much output. There's room for shallow 8's, which isn't enough cone area for me.

It's been a while. You know how I am. Too many projects, not enough money and time. That's why I'm going to try to keep this basic. Then maybe I'll finish it.

My wife wrecked my town car. There's $5k in damage, almost enough to total it. So I took the check, and it's for sale for 3k on craigslist as a driver. I replaced it with something more fun. 06 Pontiac GTO I found on eBay. Here's a pic I took an hour north of Fresno, CA on the 13 hour drive back to Portland, OR. It's a one owner with 27k. So far I've bought a Diablosport Predator tuner, a Vararam OTRCAI, and tinted the windows. Other than the stereo I'm going to try to keep the mods to a minimum(it's 400 from the factory). It currently has an old Kenwood double din mounted inside the shell of the factory deck. I'm hoping he used a harness and didn't just cut into the factory wires. My plan so far is a set of Focal P165 V15 components up front in the doors and dash(stock locations), Focal 165CVX coaxials in the rear deck, Pioneer AVH-X3600BHS deck, Scosche dash kit, Alpine ktp-445u to run the mids, a pair of sealed 10's(thinking IDQ10v2 in .6cu ft) one in quarter panel next to the rear seat, Sundown SAZ-1500D sub amp (overkill, but it's what I've got). I'll put some cld tiles, mlv and ccf in the doors, and anywhere else that needs it. The only thing I'm not sure on is the subs. The placement is fairly common with GTO owners. Finding 10" sub's that work in .7 cu ft or less, are 5.25" or less deep, and aren't expensive is interesting. I found a pair of IDQv2 D2 in good condition for $200 shipped. Here's some info I found on the IDQ10v2 Here's a thread I started for 10" sub suggestions. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/62512-10-sub-for-sealed-box-5-7cu-ft-525-deep-or-less/

I'm going to be mounting subs in the quarter panels of my 06 GTO. I'm looking for 10's to go in sealed boxes .7cu ft or less and no deeper then 5.25". This has been done with success by other gto owners. I'm not looking to hear the downsides of the placement. Here's a pic of where they are going. Any suggestions are welcome, I'd like to keep the price under $350 for the pair of subs.

Congrats John.

Good to see you working on the stereo in your DD. I've never heard of B2 B4 . Now I'm curious how the mids will stage with one pair up front and one set in the back.

Amazing attention to detail.

I've had a few different component setups. I've never been happy with any of them. They never sound the same in your car as they do in a demo room. I got a lot of help from guys like M5 on this forum and went active with home audio speakers. Now my main complaint is that most of my mp3's are low quality and sound like crap. You can't base your decision completely on internet opinion. Everyone has a different preference, so keep auditioning mids. Maybe see if anyone is local to you and willing to demo.

What are you goals for this system? If you just want loud, clean bass and want an ssa sub. Why not save some weight and money and run a single XCON 15 in a baltic birch ported box, with 1 2,000 watt amp? That's probably 75 pounds less weight with 90% of the performance and 1/3rd less cost. And 4-8" subs don't have more cone area than 2 15" subs, lol. 1 15" is almost the same cone area as 2 12" subs.

Looking good back together. That's funny that the amp gets hot when it's not working hard.

That's crazy that you fatigued the steel in the floor so badly that it cracked.

6 cubes is a lot of space. With that much room I'd go ported. Now you have some choices to make. Which direction will the subs fire? Where will you put your port? Do you want any storage, cupholders, etc..? They will take up some space as well. With that much room, you might consider 3 or 4 DCON 10's instead of 2 GCON's. Maybe fire the subs down and the port forward or back(I don't have any experience with truck boxes).

You're not going to get a "manifold" opening using an armrest hole. At last I've never seen anybody run a 4-15" manifold with that tiny of an opening.

That sounds like a good solution for a small format tweeter, but my experience is with large format. And they are too heavy to stay in place with sticky putty. So I use layers or rolled up bits of 1/8" heavy duty double sided tape. If I ever need to mount a small format I'll have a better method now. And I won't have to deal with the residue from the double sided tape.

Im being optimistic. I still don't have my highs permanently installed. Because I know I'll want to change them. Which I must did a few weeks ago. And I think I want to demo another set before I make a "permanent" choice.

Come up with some songs you don't mind listening to a lot, then get some double sided tape and mount your tweets on the sail panels. Listen to it for a while on multiple songs, then re aim and tape them and repeat the process. Eventually you will find an aiming that is suitable to "Your" ear, and then you can mount them more permanently. I like to do the demo process over a few days, so that my ears have a chance to rest between sessions.

Hey Jacob, how much power are you running to the 3 sa8 v2's in 1.5 net?

My SA8v2's came today. Here are some unboxing pics.

I mailed back my v1 and v1.5 subs today. Hopefully in a coupe weeks, I'll have my V2's. I'll be sure to post some unboxing pics when they arrive. I also got the alt builders number from John, so I can see if he has any idea what my issue is. I hoped up the new alt plug backwards when I first hooked it up. I think I may have fried the voltage regulator, or even worse the part of the ecm that tells the alt to produce more voltage.