Slumpin

im going to need one, i want something high quality that will remote start, pop my hatch and be able to signal a pager, or come with one. i want as much pager range as possible. i dont know much about alarms, i had a viper on my old camaro and it was decent but this was 4 years ago. how difficult is it to install, because the shops around here want insane amounts of money, like 600 for an installed alarm. i was thinking i'd spend 150-300 on the alarm and add ons, then spend a few days installing it. anyone know of any forums like this but for alarm information?

after listening to them for a couple days, with the amp gain at +2 db, and the deck at +5 out of 10, i think they sound pretty clean. the subs are starting to get broken in more, jumping my vision a little more now. at first it was barely noticable, and i dont think they're broken in all the way yet, seen maybe 3 or 4 hours of loud play. im still a little disappointed with them up high but they hit low bass hard. screws are falling out of my car, having to threadlock everything. any way to bench an amp with a dmm? if not, can most shops do this for me?

im askin the fudgein questions here private, do you understand? sound off like you've got a pair!!

grrr... i really dont want to go through all this trans am box building headache crap again, now trying to get 4 cubic feet for 2 15s....

i've got a craftsman laser 7.5 inch circular saw and a craftsman professional laser/led scrolling jigsaw. you can have them when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers. table saw is awesome for making angle cuts too. can do it with my jigsaw but not as accurately.

snickers.... sorry man... i hope he doesnt expect it to hang with that lethal injection of yours lol

reminds me of full metal jacket... do you suck dicks? sir no sir! bullchit i'll bet you could suck a golfball through a garden hose!!

so there shouldnt really be any difference between using the deck or amp to gain? sorry to be such a pita about this just dont want to be blowing my subs. btw, why did you ask if my voltage dropped without the woofers hooked up?

i've got 20 feet of 0/1 gauge coming, will arrive with the battery, along with a fuse holder for up by the battery. still think thats whats causing the amps to cut out and make that noise, just low voltage?

now im kinda confused. you're saying any at all including deck? i was only giving it +3 db on the amp out of +14. i didnt check if the voltage was dropping without the woofers hooked up. my best bet is going to be set the deck at +6 and leave the amp boost off then?

using even a little amp boost then is harmful? and i'll definitely have to redo this once i get my new alternator and battery in right?

well i finished doing the big 3 today, all in 4 gauge, and saw a major improvement in charging. it was dropping to around 9 volts on certain frequencies before, now it only goes down to maybe 11 at the worst, and theres no more of the jerking, just very slight rpm drops. but my amps are still shutting down and giving me the weird thump thump thump noises. i have no power block with fuses right now, just a splitter, 4 gauge into 2 8 gauges. have a 100 amp circuit breaker by the battery that has never tripped. i pulled up the carpet and checked where the amps in the back were grounded and there was paint, so i grinded that off and put it back, same thing. i ordered a 200 amp from excessive, and got a 31 series yellow top from 02sscamaro on here, waiting for those to come now but wont be able to install them until im off work again on monday. anymore thoughts? sounds just fine until it does that, no distortion hiss or anything, but once it starts doing that thump thump it just sounds nasty, likes its no good for the equipment even though its not very loud.

i've got it set at just under 34.6. it peaks at 34.4 at 45 hz. i have the deck set to +5 on the bass, the bass boost on the amp set to +3 or 4 db, and the amp turned up all the way. when i'd turn up the boost on the deck more it would jump a lot. +6 would have it peaking 3 or 4 volts higher. the woofers aren't hooked up, i've got them out of the car until tomorrow night, have some silicone drying on the wire hole, was a bit of a leak there. should i go ahead and turn the deck up to +6, turn the boost on the amp down, and back the power off a bit on the amp, or leave it the way it is? (i know i know amp boost is bad but i figured they aren't hooked up, and its only a few db, im getting just the voltage i want so what the hell, i'll check here first.)

and i can honest to god turn the sub gain on my deck up to +10? says in the tutorial to turn it up all the way but i gotta get clarification on that one lol. i know the boost on the amp stays down.

Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V k i went to do this, and i think its the formula im doing wrong. i still dont have much of a charging system, drops under 12 regularly, so i used 1200 for the voltage, i know nine.1's are underrated and can put out around 1400 with a good charging system. so i took 1200 by 4 (dual 4 ohm woofers) and the square root was 69. but the voltage i was getting was in the 20s. i have 2, dual 4 ohm voice coil speakers running at a 1 ohm load to the amp. what do i multiple the amps rms power by?

i read the tutorial, but im having some trouble. im not getting anywhere near the voltage i should be with my dmm, and its NEGATIVE! of course im doing it wrong, but i need someone to talk me through it. could one of you pm me a phone number so i can call you? should only take a couple minutes, im sure its just something simple im messing up. would really appreciate it. thanks, Shaun

dont know, the dude just put mini wafer fuses in the auction. im assuming hes either talking about regular fuses like under your dash, or some smaller version of them. i didnt think they made those very big though, i think the biggest i've seen were 30 or 40.

you can feel and hear it if the coil rubs right? i did it with my old sorry ass cerwin vegas, and they only rubbed if i pushed on one side, instead of straight down on the middle. but point taken, no need to take chances with a 215 dollar woofer when there are better ways to check. guess i'll just bite the bullet and pull the box out thing fits perfectly in my hatch, under a 1/4 inch gap on each side, so its really, really hard to get out.

anyone know what the deal is with these mini wafer fuses? they should be able to go plenty big for a 1500 watt amp right?

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZViewItem

im going with a 200 amp alternator from excessive amperage in the ca group buy. its going in an 87 trans am daily driver with a kenwood 35x4 and an eD nine.1, going to do the big 3, have an optima yellow top 31, and run 0/1 gauge wire back to a distributor and 4 gauge to the amps. for daily driving, im wanting a small case not a large one right? large is more for spl vehicles that sit and idle as they burp correct? my car idles around 750-800 right now because i have a minor vacuum leak but once i track it down and fix it should be more like 600-650 idle.

man, honestly. will yall let me in on this big secret as to whats wrong with eD amps?

well the nine.1 does get pretty hot, but both amps shut down at the same time, so i doubt it.

i know, upgrading to 0/1 gauge and a 4 gauge block this week, just have it that way because the 4 gauge was already run from the battery to back.