altoncustomtech

I'm running my 10" XCON on a Sundown SAZ-1500Dv1 and have been for a couple years now with no issues and it gets loud enough to make my ears get that tickled feeling. The 1500 is just fine, no such thing as under powering a sub.

It would be best to be able to see your video, but having had a similar issue from one of my passive radiators I would say that you have a loose dust cap or the surround itself where it attaches to the cone.

Both are proven performing drivers. That being said the only complaint I've ever heard about the X's is that they're weak on the higher notes. I cannot confirm nor deny how accurate that is, nor can I guarantee that the people who have made those comments had been using the proper enclosure for the subs. I can say that I've had experience with the XCON and I love it. I would also rather support one of a handful of companies that still have 100% of their production in the USA. Of course all that is my opinion so take it for only that.

lol, the HU was cheaper. I got it, new, for $238 shipped to the house. A new phone, iPhone or anything else, would be a lot more than that in the middle of the contract.

Well it's been quite some time since I've posted any updates on the Jimmy. That's not necessarily a bad thing though because it means I've not had any trouble or issues with anything that would require an update to the build log. My only complaint has been with my Clarion HU. When I first got the HU I was carrying an iPhone 4 and life was gravy between them. However when I upgraded to my iPhone 5S it wouldn't connect with the HU. I assumed it was just a compatibility issue with the phone being newer than the HU even though my wife's iPhone 5 (not an "S") worked fine. So I used an old iPod touch for awhile and after trying it occasionally after an iOS update or a firmware update to the HU I accepted it just wasn't going to work. That is until my wife upgraded her phone to an iPhone 6 and it worked on the HU just fine. At that point, and because the power of the HU was being wasted with the Harmony doing all the processing and a little boredom, I decided enough was enough and I began to look for a replacement. I really do like the Kenwood that's in the Traverse so I started looking at double dins and settled on the Kenwood DDX-672BH. It's the predecessor to the 771 that's in the Traverse with the addition of HDRadio and a few other very minor differences. I found one hell of a deal on it, ordered it and began modifying the dash and building custom mounting brackets out of 1.5" aluminum angle. It still looks a little bit ghetto but I'll pretty it up when I finally get around to fiberglassing the sail panels to mount the full ranges. Here's a few pics of the process and how it finished. I know it looks rough but I'm happy. It works like it should and I don't have to carry around that stupid old iPod anymore, lol.

What Casey said is accurate and as long as you set the amp right and listen/watch/smell for stress on the speakers you will be fine. The extra power is headroom, and that's a REALLY good thing to have. It will help from sending clipped signals to the speakers during dynamic peaks in the music. Do a search on the forum for a topic on amplifier headroom and you'll learn a LOT about what it is and how much it can really help.

The enclosure you build and put it in has WAY more to do with how "good" it will perform than the amp that is powering it. Make sure that the enclosure you use is perfect first, then worry about the power you're feeding it. Otherwise, yes, that amp and sub combination should do very well together.

Happy Birthday Brother!!!!!

The only thing I can think of, if you haven't already tried it, would be to reset it again and log it into the PSU account first. Other than that I won't be much help with the Android stuff.

In my humble and limited opinion if you're planning on running active in the very near future then I would definitely skip buying an automotive component set and go straight to picking out raw drivers and building your own. The manufacturers of the component sets you've looked at cut all kinds of corners to offer those sets and/or worse charge far more for them than they're worth. Take the Arc Audio Black 6.2 components for an example. That's an $1100 set and it was explained by someone on here that Arc sourced the drivers from SB Acoustics and the very same ones can be purchased from Madisound for under $250 and the passive crossovers sure as heck don't make up the rest of the cost. Imagine how much a company actually has in a set that costs $100 to $200. My point is that if you're going to run active there's no point in wasting money on mediocre at best and more often sub par speakers in some component set when even cheaper raw drivers will blow them away. Look into the ScanSpeak drivers you mentioned, Seas, Dayton, SB Acoustics, HiVi, Morel, Tang Band, Peerless and so many others. You'll be far better off and have less money in it overall. That's just my .02

That's absolutely awesome! Would love to take my wife over there one of these days.

All of the above on the bedliner. I believe it will take a special tip for most spray guns because it has some kinda large solids in it but otherwise it comes in rattle spray cans and quart/gallon/5 gallon size containers for bulk application by brush, roller, and sprayer. Sounds like you already have the sprayer you need with the texture sprayer, but all the pertinent information should be available on the websites of the manufacturers such as Line-X, Herculiner, and even Rust-o-leum has a bed liner product as well. I loved working with Birch too, but I just can't justify the cost difference between it and MDF to build everything from the Birch ply now.

I second the Line-X / bedliner idea. It looks good and it tough enough to last for quite awhile. Surprised with a shop and tool selection like you have available there that you don't have a circle jig for your router. The enclosure turned out awesome!!

Happy Birthday!!

Welcome to the forum!!

Will be absolutely awesome if it's this easy to fix the problem!!

Unibody car, no frame to ground to. My recommendation would be to run at least one dedicated ground wire back to your grounding point. Also, does your DMM have a MIN/MAX or HI/LO setting capability? You could use it to capture the highest and lowest voltage reading without having to stand over the meter the whole time.

Check out http://www.car-part.com/ Site is a real-time (or as close as possible) list of the parts available at parts yards all over the country. You should easily be able to locate a good used trans for that vehicle near you for a decent price. In the meantime I would recommend getting some Lucas Transfix to put in this one to help limp it along as long as possible.

Sorry, somehow I didn't notice your reply. You're welcome to visit anytime!! I've been wanting to put a meet/get together for the IAK Team for awhile now, maybe you could make it down for that as well if it ever comes together.

I sure wouldn't call that a shoddy install. You did a good job of laying it out, putting in the work where it matters, and it shows. I'm certain it sounds as good as it looks and with this kind and much work under your belt it and your future builds will only get better.

Isn't that HD8000 a mono subwoofer amp? You don't even have stereo channel (Left/Right) separation. It can't begin to sound right let alone work as expected.

Definitely a beautiful install. I love the finishing details on the boards that surround the port opening. Gotta love the fine details.

LOL, my wife (in years past) actually used it on several occasions and then her aunt lost it. This one is still virgin but goes everywhere with her. She's definitely not a woman to be messed with, lol. Brother, if it could work out I'd definitely never turn down a chance to help. Thanks dude I appreciate it.

Your thoughts are correct, tuning should affect where you set the SSF. LPF will be more of a system and user preferenced setting. Some drivers in some alignments will do well playing up higher, others won't. Sometimes if the front stage is weak a person will need a little higher LPF setting to get the midbass response they are looking for. It's really pretty situation dependent and basically a person should just set it to what sounds good to them.

Awesome! Thanks for the link to that! I have considered doing something similar with window tint, looks like someone else beat me to it.