altoncustomtech

yeah some cars lend themselves to certain configurations better than others...... your original dimensions could work as DC does show 5cu.ft. being acceptable.... and according to my calculations, you could yield around 5.5cuft after displacements tuned to 33hz with 85sq.in. of port area..... not too shabby methinx.....

yeah the guy does a hell of a job with it....... wait til you see the flex vids.... like i said before the fiberglass beauty panels aren't for everyone.... but I've done that type of install in over a dozen cars with seats that DON'T fold down and the results were fantastic, i swear its louder, cleaner and cheaper in the long run as you don't have to sound deaden the trunk since all the movement is in the cabin..... but, to each his own.... and there's a chance that it simply wouldn't work in your car but i figured I'd throw it on the table....

he has all the pics for it..... but i have a link to a build log that should give a good idea.... here's the link: FBI90909's Build Log Now he built a fiberglass beauty panel to seal the sub into the cabin of the car, we simply built the box to mate up perfectly with the back of his seat where it folds down.... had to use a hole saw drill bit to put some holes in the solid plastic panels that make of the back of the seat so allow the sound to easily radiate into the cabin, but it was all worth it.... took 2 weeks to build that damn enclosure in there.... Car Audio and Electronics had an article doing the same thing in a Mustang some time back.... i'll have to see if I can dig that up....

have you done a BIG 3 upgrade yet?? That's a must do, period. Whether you have or not, sounds like a grounding issue... are all your amps grounded to the same point? is your second battery in the rear? make sure everything in the back is grounded at the same point, make sure that ground is good, check all connections at the battery's, chassis, amps, etc.... I'm pretty sure it's just some bad connections/grounds causing the problems.... Also, the Kinetic isn't a cap or anything like one.... it's a battery with a very low internal resistance which allows it to deliver large amounts of current very quickly....

his is 36w x 19t x 32d...... tuned to 32hz.... the only way a "T" shaped enclosure could hurt the sound would be if you mounted the sub in the trunk, not sealed into the cabin like we did my brothers.... in that case if you've used up every sq.in. you can there's simply not enough air space for the sub to excite the air efficiently and that causes a loss in output.... otherwise if you were to do it like we did his, and like many other people have done many times over, and seal it to the cabin of the car you could effectively use the entire trunk and get the max space available with no worries about cancellation, air space around the box, etc.... usually when I do trunk cars this is the only way I'll do them....

we built the box for my lil bro's SSD 18 into the trunk of his Grand Prix sealed into the cabin.... works great, 8cuft into the trunk left no room for play though...... I always figured that a person is only limited by their imagination..........

lol.... welcome to life.... it doesn't get any easier from here on out.... oil ya say? that can't be good.... u sure u haven't been bangin' that thing around through the fields?? hehehe just kiddin'... I'm still in it for the finish, still real interested in what's wrong with it.... Good Luck Bud.... And yeah..... from indiana too, about an hour south of Terre Haute....

Basically, im looking for a powerful sq setup. My current box for my 12 ssd is ~2.5 cubes at 32 hz with 600rms, which is why im looking to just get a new 12" to take the new power. I just dont have enough experience with this kind of power to know if the q could take it without cooking. Im pleased with my current ssd's sq, so perhaps it wouldnt be a bad idea to get another ssd and build a new box around 4.5-5 cubes? only problem with that would be fitting it in my trunk (vw passat sedan). The current offer for the q with free bp power is very attractive, but how would the q compare to the 2 ssd option given i have enough room for them? And what is the approximate power handling of the q with bp power? The Q's are built to be low end SQ monsters... if you're going for a powerful SQ setup then the Q will do you very well, the Q with the BP option and that 1200D will get along very well together IMO... now, compared to 2 SSD's it probably wouldn't be as loud on the same power, as the 2 will have more cone surface area...... If you're currently pleased with the SQ of the SSD you have then two SSD's will most likely give you what you're looking for.... my lil bro is running his SSD 18 alone on a Sundown 1200 and isn't having any issues at all, very loud, linear and clear....

hmm..... what is it tuned to? just on initial figures the box seems like it may be a bit small too.... is it the same one the Rockford was in?

thanks guys.... every time I decide to look this thing up the online dealers can't get the info straight for nothin'...... it looks good but I still think I'm going to go with a SAZ 2000 or 3000 for my Q's, but this comparison sure does show that the cheaper products aren't doing bad in their own right....

Damn nice comparison..... sucks that screwed up on the Sundown though....... is that AP really mono? every time I find specs on them I cant decipher the stupid information, always sounds like it's 2 channel... anyways, nice work man!

what kind of enclosure is it in????? if you say the same as the rockfords well, that's your problem...... most likely its not hitting the higher notes because the enclosure is improperly tuned........ what's the size and tuning of the enclosure??? also what's your LPF set to... it may be set too low.... or you could have an air leak where the mounting surface is.... there's alot of good reasons for what you're experiencing....

get a BL it will gladly take 1400 watts that Q may take it but it proly wont like it very much I dunno, wouldn't do it daily but a fella on CA put 3540wrms to one without toasting it, said it even sounded pretty good doing it..... hit the mechanical limits before the thermals.... to the OP --- DON'T do that, the guy who did it was just doing it to be doing it, knew it was bad for it and didn't care.... if you order a Q with BP then set your gains correctly the little extra power from a sundown 1200 would probably not phase it much since it would only happen during peaks..... Now.... what are your goals in the system? SQ or SPL.... what kind of music do you listen to, etc..... need to know facts before we can accurately answer..... most likely the BL will be your sub of choice just my guess with the first questions....

it was $25 for each of my Q's and my lil bro's SSD to 47557.... dunno about to ur location

you'd be surprised how far people drive them making noises like that, BUT i'm glad to hear you aren't..... what u need is a good friend who's a fair mechanic to look at it.... too bad ur up near INDY, if you was closer I'd come take a look at it for ya.....

im gona try getin by right now if its the ball joints. im gona get the cheaper ones. theyre like 30 a piece at autozone. so you still dont know for sure what it is?? I wouldn't buy any parts until I was sure.... usually you check the wheel bearing by grabbing at 6 and 12 and trying to rock the wheel that way, not 3 and 9..... at 3 and 9 any play you feel could be the wheel bearing, but just as easy as it could be a bad tie rod, it won't tell you whether its the ball joint or not though....... this is the way to test these ball joints.... you should be sure or have an actual mechanic look at it before spending money on parts.....

Thats a great review man... I've been looking at those babies for some time now... on the tweeter problems, might try this little trick and see if it helps.... Thanks for the great review! EASY Tweeter Savers

I don't see a problem making your own as long as you make sure it can't short to any grounds...... anyways...... NO you don't have to step down to 8 from 4 just because ur splitting off.... in fact i'd recommend keeping the 4awg throughout.... Now the 150 is good, the fuse is for protecting the wire being used, not what it's powering..... use 150 and if you begin blowing it you'll know you need to up the wire to 1/0.......

Two that I care about.... CA.com was my first, still contribute there on a regular basis..... I found SSA thanks to CA and have truly enjoyed this site, though I rarely get to answer questions since there's so many knowledgable people here that usually get to them before I do with the same or better answers, I still like it here alot! I've joined a few others caraudioforum, roe, *** (only to read a LOLZ link) but this and CA are my main goto's....

Not necessarily.... When the wheel bearing finally went out on my Jimmy there was over 2" of play that I could move the wheel on.... the worst I've ever seen a wheel bearing before.... I know for a fact it was the wheel bearing as : 1. I had an alignment done at a local tire dealer right after I purchased it and they said the machine could see play in the wheel. 2. They said that everything else in the front end was tight. 3. The auto dealer I bought the truck from replaced the wheel bearing and everything has been peachy ever since. and 4. I've replaced more than a half-dozen wheel bearings in my short experience and the noise and associated problems from worn out wheel bearings are nearly all the same..... That being said, how did you get the idea that "if you jack up the car and there's play in the tire then its the ball joint." anyways just out of idle curiosity??? for that matter a loose wheel could be something as silly as loose lug nuts, and believe me that happens more often than you'd think.... Sorry if I came across sounding like a bit of an ass but I'm looking forward to finding out what is wrong with it.....

i'd be real surprised if it was a ball joint.... usually once they get worn enuf to cause something to make noise they've done separated and you're super stranded...... saw it happen up front and personal to a crown vic at a drive through, the lower ball joint gave and the wishbone (A arm) fell with the car's weight on it onto the inside of the wheel, wouldn't budge an inch..... then when the woman's man showed up he gunned it to get it out of the way and it was quite a show, left big curly shavings of aluminum from the wheel behind it, took everything the car had to move................. I'd think if it was a ball joint that you most likely couldn't have been driving it at all... I'm still convinced it's the wheel bearings....

so what did you find out about your truck??

was the noise even louder when you turned? also it only makes the noise when im driving. if i sit in the driveway and turn the wheel its fine. yeah it always got louder when i turned and yes shot wheel bearings will only make noise when driving.... your questions make me quite sure it's the wheel bearings.... another tell tale that the wheel bearings are shot is the truck doesn't feel as steady as it did before, the steering feels loose, like driving an OLD Jeep.... lol

like dragging a ship anchor around under the truck.....

unfortunately the bearings are around $120 each at Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA and AutoZone...... I priced 'em before the dealer fixed mine.... But yeah it sounds REAL bad when they go completely out....