altoncustomtech

I'll bet it's the center one isn't it. Nope, not likely your imagination. As I had mentioned when designing the enclosure for you it's possible for the sub(s) closest to the port opening to move a little funny, even unload when the other subs don't. It's not something that can be modeled either, at least not at our level with easily to attain/afford software. There might be some FEA or other high end software that could but I'm not even certain of that. That's why that loading wall/brace was in there, to try to prevent that from happening. Apparently it's either not large enough or isn't in the right spot, damnit.

Oh damn, the cheapest chip brushes I could find. I put it on thick and heavy, let it set up most of the way then hit it again until I got it good and thick. No brush strokes are evident afterward either and the amp rack has been suscepted to everything from firewood, tools, dogs, auto parts and other crap without any scratches, gouges or noticeable damage.

I'm not aware of any that are textureless, but I know the Rustoleum I got from Walmart has a weaker/lesser texture than the professionally applied brands like Rhinoliner and Herculiner. The Rustoleum has just enough texture to be able to feel and see it but that's about it. I got to thinking, it may also have to do with how it's applied. I brushed mine on both the amp rack and the enclosure. Most times it's either rolled or sprayed on.

Really hard to beat bed liner. I have it on my amp rack and enclosure in the Jimmy. It's super tough, can take tons of abuse and infinitely more so than paint alone ever could. It's also super easy to apply and not even expensive either.

Yes, that's all you have to do, carefully of course.

I'd be glad to help with a redesign for you if you like. Post up the maximum dimensions you have to work within and I'll make up multiple configurations and we'll see what will fit your goals the best.

^^ This exactly. The cross-sectional area of the port tube. Area for a circle is calculated as Pi * Radius squared. So the radius of a 4" tube is 2", 2 squared is simply 4, multiplied by 3.14 = 12.56 sqare inches. You would need a port diameter of roughly 6" to get near the 30 sqin minimum requirement for port area. 6" diameter is a 3" radius, 3 squared is 9, 9 multiplied by 3.14 = 28.26 sqare inches.

to the forum!

I did the same. Most of them were CFL's and I still saw a difference with the LED's. The biggest difference was replacing the 50watt per bulb GU10's in the big six bulb light in the kitchen with LED bulbs. Went from 300 watts worth to 42 and have more light than with the halogens as well. Ever since I was in high school I thought LED was the way to go for lighting. I should have started building and pushing on it back then, I might have been retired on my own island in Bora Bora or Belize by now, lol.

I've done the same thing and replaced almost every bulb in the house. Saw a difference in the electric bill the first month.

Yep.... been on call though so not much free time to delve into the numbers yet.... Maybe this weekend after the show....

I wouldn't use a "used" battery for anything and sure as hell wouldn't use one for an application like this one. I've also not had any luck with Odyssey batteries either, but that's not necessarily completely the brand's fault. I don't think the place I bought them from sold them to me in the condition they claimed them to be in. Brand aside, for an application like this I wouldn't trust a used battery, plain and simple, but that's just me.

So which drivers were they? I'm going to say it, cuz I know several people will think it.... "Imagine that, a genuine driver performing the intended job better than those "PA" drivers just like it's suggested all the time on here." lol Glad to hear the new purchase/drivers are making you happy!

Damn that really sucks ass. I was really looking forward to meeting you and seeing what those Ethos can do. Maybe next year at Slamology or another show. Gotta take care of work so the bills can get paid and food is on the table though. That's much more important. Thanks for letting me know ahead of time.

Absolutely man, I'd love to help. I just need all the maximum dimensions and other particulars and I'll get something preliminary drawn up for ya.

Awesome!! Replacing that OLD gas too! lol Awesome to see it alive brother.

Thanks man, I appreciate that! Now I need to figure out a great reason to head out your direction....... hmmm

Yeah, it's not the BEST prices, but with the constant updates on stock status and prices it makes it easier to catch a decent deal. Especially for someone like me who is just starting to assemble my arsenal and who doesn't visit the local stores on a regular basis. A few extra dollars for the convenience doesn't bother me. I was also never in the habit of buying anything back when you could get a 500+ round brick for about $10. So the prices aren't bothering me any cuz I don't have a prior reference.

That's one thing I like about the wikiarms site, at least you can see the prices and stock status in as close to real time as it can get.

Now that's what I call a hook up... Nice!

I found a website, www.wikiarms.com that has been really handy finding BOTH ammo in stock and at as low of prices as I've seen anywhere. But I haven't seen .22LR anywhere for that ~3 cents a round you just found that ammo you mentioned buying today. Damn that's cheap.

That'll help make her happy about all the ammo! I'm starting down the same road myself. Already have an old break-over barrel style 20 gauge shotgun and like 1,000 shells and I just bought a Colt M4 .22LR (for $300 new) and almost 2,200 rounds of ammo for it.

to the forum! I'll try to get the PM you sent me answered this evening. Busy making dinner at the moment.

Happy Birthday Brother!!

WOW! You wouldn't find that printed anywhere these days.