altoncustomtech

That would be exactly what running "active" is. You'll need either a HU or an external DSP to do it properly though. For something that can do not just the crossover capabilities that you need but also time alignment and other processing the Pioneer 80PRS and the Clarion CZ702 are great places to start and learn with. I personally love the Clarion (am currently using one in my Jimmy) for several reasons but the main reason is because it can be picked up for $150 or less. The next step up would be something like the MiniDSP or the MiniDSP based units such as the Soundstream Synthesis, the PPI DEQ.8, or the Zapco DSP Z8. They're all a fair bit more costly than the HU options but in the long run offer so much more control abilities and options than any HU currently on the market can offer. As for the speaker adapter, you're going to have to hone your fabrication skills. Exactly what you're describing you want to do to your doors is exactly what I did in my Jimmy. I have a link to the build log for it in my signature if you're wanting to take the time to look at how I did mine. You're right, the factory grill definitely hurts response and the space between the door panel and the speaker is also not helping. Short term solution would be to take some foam and cut a couple of rings to go around the speaker and seal it's path directly to the factory opening in the door panel. That would eliminate the problems in response from the sound being able to wonder around behind the panel at will until you were able to complete a new set of baffles through the door panel. I'm glad to see you're opening yourself up to the advice that's been given. When I first joined a few years ago I was in the same boat as you. The more I learned the more I realized I didn't know nearly as much as I thought/wished I did, lol. It's hard to let go of the knowledge that we think we know is gospel and accept that everything (or most of it) we've known and taught and have been taught over the years is inaccurate or completely false. I too also always ran rears to get that "full and enveloped" sound. After a little time on here and some testing and a little reworking I've come to realize (as you likely will) that rears do nothing but hurt the overall response. EDIT: Added some stuff since my first response was typed on my mobile and I hate typing much on there. Also, the best information (and some of the best products) you can find on the web about sound deadening can be found at SoundDeadenerShowdown.com

Wow...... Boy Chop, if there's anything I can do to help.

I'm almost never on Facebook tho and with the folks I do have friended on there it's REALLY time consuming to try to go back through more than a few days in the feed. I'm gonna hit up your page and see what info I can dig up.

The 3205 is an extremely common transistor. The older versions were rated for 98A of current capacity, the newer versions are good up to 110A. If the part number were a IRF3205Z, IRF3205PBF, IRF3205L, IRF3205STR, etc. then it would be a different animal but the NTE2991 should be a perfect match for what got shot. The other numbers have to do with product batches and the sort and like you mentioned are pretty much useless for identification in most cases.

If the part # is only IRF3205 without any letters behind it then THIS is all you need.

I must really be behind the times, did something happen to the Olds?

That was a good video, but she's not very intelligent is she. The "OMG, What you got back there?" Question followed by, "I wanna see that trunk!" Had me rolling my eyes. There's something wrong with that woman if she couldn't tell those subs were right behind her head, lol.

I ordered a couple!

to the forum! I agree with Kylar96, as long as you're happy, we're happy! I found a pair of Ohm speakers, 8" 2-ways, at a Goodwill near me and picked them up for $10 for the pair. The foam surround had rotted off and I rebuilt/replaced them with a foam repair kit from Parts Express. I will have to say those Ohm speakers are some of the most natural sounding I had ever had the pleasure of listening to. I found out they were built in/around the late 70's and sold for around $500 new at that time. A little constructive criticism here if you're interested. In the interest of quality music reproduction, I would imagine the EQ would better serve the overall outcome on the front speakers with the rears disconnected. With all those speakers playing at one time (without major EQ and time alignment work) it's screwing with the sound stage and imaging. As good as I'm sure that is with your in house setup I would imagine you'd like to get similar response from the car. While it's certainly doable it will definitely take a bit more time and money to achieve, the results of which however would probably make a person like yourself much much happier in the long run.

Awesome. I liked the FB page and subscribed at the website. (which consequently stopped loading correctly afterward on laptop and mobile, odd isn't it.)

I gotta agree. Not that I have a lot of room to talk with a set of Bravox CS603CF's in the closet, but the price was good and even Brad said they're fairly decent. But I do still agree with the comment, he likely won't know any different and there's no sense in letting him waste something to the tune $800 for a less than stellar set of speakers in the first place. These is cheap - PPI 3 Way components

LOL, hopefully it's back on the road by then!! I'm really hoping the mechanic can get it in the first of this week, if he doesn't then I'll probably not be able to get it to Slam this year, yet again.

My thoughts as well. The black looked so much better but then again it's not my truck.

Woohoo!! Looking forward to the transformation!

to the forum!!

I do agree. Kind of a shame to hide it under the truck, lol. Wow, thank you Aaron! It's an honor!

oh wait, you said THUMBS LOL... Muchos Gracias Yeah buddy, I can't wait. It's going to be another week before the mechanic can get me in so I'm going to pull the door panels off and get a little work done on them before it goes. I doubt I'll get to any of the fiberglass, but getting some of the other things that need done such as better mounting for the door panels and the repair of the handles (the ones I pull to close the doors, tabs are broken, common problem on these) so that the doors are ready for the big work.

Okay, it's been forever since I had any updates for the Jimmy. Of course with the work load we have over the winter months it's hard to get any free time to work on it at work and I don't have a great place at home to work on it there when it's cold, so.... enough for the excuses, lol. The ETE Reman trans was shipped and arrived last week. I figured I'd throw up a few pics for giggles before the truck and trans went to the mechanic. I just can't wait to get to driving this thing again. Once I get it back from the mechanic work will begin on getting the doors modified and the 8" SLS's and Fountek FR89's installed!

to the forum!

The price is pretty hard to beat too.

to the forum!

Awesome. I have an '01 Jimmy 2 door. I recently dropped a reman engine in it (still not completely sure that was necessary) and now I'm waiting for the mechanic to get an opening to drop in an ETE reman transmission. I completely expect to put another 250,000 miles on it after this, lol. The engine was my fault. Turns out that they don't breath water so well, lol. Trans is just the standard 4L60E roll of the dice chance tho. I feel sorry for your truck and the abuse it's about to suffer from that SP4 though, lol.

Won't need anywhere near all that space but having it available will allow for a great design with good bracing and plenty of port area. I can help. What orientation are you wanting, sub up/port back? What vehicle is this bad boy going in?

to the forum!

Southwest Indiana. Just about right in the middle in between Evansville and Terre Haute.