altoncustomtech

I'd take it, if I hand the monies.

Could you fit 16 x 30 x 18.5" D comfortably? If so we can fit 2.5cuft NET volume into that space with a 3" wide port tuned to a real 32hz.

Well, it's damned tight. We can squeeze 1.75cuft NET volume into 12.5" H x 31" W x 16" D and a 2.5" wide port. Now, that's about minimum I would run on both but that's adding 3" to each side of the current enclosure's width and an inch to the depth, if you could fit that. Sealed may very well be your best bet. One thing I would like to note is that you may be very surprised by the sound of the ICON sealed. Another question is when did you place the order? Aaron, would there be a chance he could change the order to a 10? Building a better box for the 10" ICON would be a much more feasible course of action. Just a thought.

I'll run some numbers and see what you really have to work with, but I think we can definitely get you fixed up. Nice job on the enclosure and the "skirt" it's sitting on to keep it level, very nice craftsmanship.

Yes, I very much believe it would. The output below tuning rolls off, or gets quieter fairly quickly the farther it plays below the frequency it's tuned to. You're missing the majority of your output below 45hz which is a strong contributing facotr IMHO to why it's not as loud as you're expecting.

The RE calculator has been proven inaccurate for quite some time now with no upgrades, updates or changes that I'm aware of. Download the Torres box calculator, plug in your enclosure information and see what it says. I think you'll find my calculations pretty damn close. Trust me, your enclosure is the problem. If you want help on a design for a new one, which could/should work with your current dimensions, we can help you with a proper one. Just to cover the bases though, are those the MAX dimensions you have to work with? If not, how much more room can you get for each dimension?

Personally I wouldn't use it. There's not enough port area and the volume is smaller than I would want to use for any 12. 12.5" height seems like that's all you have due to the trunk height, what are your max dimensions on width and depth. I would be glad help you with another enclosure design. Any chance you could get 13" on height and be okay?

to the forum!!

to the forum!

A few more updates. I'm at the intrakit part of the build process now. I have to use careful precision so that the holes and flush recesses all line up perfectly. Here's the enclosure with all the regular panels attached. Here I've clamped the top double baffle panel onto the enclosure. Once I got it aligned I measured out the centers for each of the three cuts I plan to make on this panel and traced the outline of the holes to be cut. Here I've got the outlines drawn. I also used those outlines to know precisely where to put the screws that will hold the baffles together once they're ready to be glued. Here I've clamped the front double baffle onto the front of the enclosure. Getting ready to measure and mark the centers for the three holes on this side. This is how I had to leave it today. I got the outlines for the PR's drawn and if you look very closely you can even see the center holes. Those holes are drilled down to the first baffle beneath. That hole lines them up perfectly so I can transfer the hole for yhe plexi windows through both. This is basically the design and what it should look like when its completed. It's such a slow and delicate process at this point. One good little screwup and I'll have to scrap it and start over. Not something I really want to do with $90 worth of plywood. If I'm remotely lucky it'll come out looking great.

I would have to agree 100%, but if you just can't bring yourself to spend the money with Don then RaamAudio's RaamMat BXT II isn't a bad alternative. While Rick is a super nice guy with a pretty good product, the money spent with Don is money well spent for his knowledge and assistance.That's why I agreed 100% with Sean, but I also know how people get when they see the dollars stack up. I recommended the RaamMat so he didn't start looking at the really crappy stuff.

I guess a single page pulled from a book with a couple pictures is a lot to read these days.If you clicked on the link you would see a page refrenced lol LOL. man when I clicked the link it took me straight to the cover page. And yes..there was two pictures on it! B-) You're using Internet Exploder aren't you? lol Pages 82 & 83 are the pertinent information they're referencing, but just for future reference that's a book everyone in this hobby should own for their own referencing. 7th edition is the latest, just FYI.

Here's the final drawings and cutsheet. Here you go man, just a little smaller. Let me know if you need any help with anything on it.

12" of port length IS NOT 34hz tuning in an enclosure that size. A box that measures 30x16x17 and a 3" wide port (assuming the port is 14.5" tall, firing on the horizontal plane) would need 40" physical port length to tune to 34hz and net volume would end up around 2.25cuft, which is fine, but your tuning is WAY off. At least by my quick calculations, anyone else willing to confirm? From a few more calculations it appears that you're tuned in the neighborhood of 45hz with a 3" W x 14.5" H x 12" Long port in that enclosure volume which at 14.5 x 15.5 x 28.5 (internal dimensions) comes to about 3.71cuft GROSS and the 3" x 14.5" x 12" port would only consume .377cuft of that space, which leaves about 3.33cuft and subtract the sub's .18cuft displacement leaves a final 3.15cuft NET volume.

That's just awesome. It also goes to show how they just DO NOT build anything to last anymore, except maybe a few choice brands of subwoofers . It's great to see these old cars brought back to life and bring a little piece of nostalgia back from a much different time. Makes me really want to get to work on my dad's El Camino SS. He and I had made plans to get it back on the road together about the same time he found out he had cancer. It's a shame we never got to get on that project, though it will be a great experience for me and my kids. From one son to another, spend as much time as you can with him on this stuff. The memories are too important not to.

I would have to agree 100%, but if you just can't bring yourself to spend the money with Don then RaamAudio's RaamMat BXT II isn't a bad alternative.

What are all the specific specifications on the enclosure, dimensions, port length, etc.? I'm still going to put money on the fact the enclosure isn't quite right for the sub, otherwise I do agree the two SSD's should be louder than the single BL as long as the apples are compared to apples.

I would buy the DCON Sean (W140) has for sale ($100 shipped IIRC). Then find a decent little used amp to run it with. It will give her the best of both worlds in a proper ported enclosure and fit the budget nicely! Link to for sale thread HERE--> http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59263-10-dcon-soundqubed-1204-and-audioque-1204/

Try this on for size. Enclosure is 1.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz with 42.25sqin of port area measuring 14.5" H x 26" W x 22" D. A little less port area than before but still gonna do very well I think.

For $90? I think if it's temporary anyway then who cares what they sound like or how good they perform. You're not planning on them being permanent in any way so why would you want to know what anyone's opinion of them would be? Aside from that, why 5.25"? Why not get them the same size (basic) size as the speakers you're planning to use so you don't have to do anything special to go from one to the other? That's my thought, sell 'em when you're done with 'em and forget it. On another note, why are you using those PWX speakers anyway? There are much better options for midbass drivers out there.

BUMP Somebody buy this SUBWOOFER! I just can't understand how there's almost ZERO interest in it. BNIB, fully loaded Fi goodness!!

Thank you for the help and honestly I did mean only perfection to me, I KNOW there's no such thing as real world perfection for everyone's ears, I've learned that much during my short time here, LOL. If it were as easy as just saying go here, buy this, install it this way and be perfectly happy this hobby would be quite boring. I have a ton to learn, I just wish I had more time to learn it and resources to learn it from. In a hobby where almost everyone is just looking to get louder than their friends or previous setup finding good, useful information on the how's, why's, do's and don't of response issues, driver choice & placement, adjusting EQ's/crossovers/DTA, and everything else that goes into tuning a system for SQ over SPL is just tougher than hell. I'm CERTAIN it's out there, and with yours and Brad's help I get closer every time someone posts questions on some aspect of the subject and I read, re-read, and often times save the answers you guys give because it's priceless information. You're right though, my listening has become considerably more critical than it used to be. I've started to become disgusted by the god awful quality of all my digital audio as well, it's REALLY not helping the issues I'm hearing with the components. Now to get to the critical listening of everything as individuals, pairs and as a whole to get the full picture. Would you also recommend, when starting out with each driver/pair/set to start with the EQ flat and the DTA at 0 and adjust for each driver/pair/set as I go? I picked up the entire set of the Autosound 2000 test CD's from Sheffield Lab which I found one hell of a deal on. Are these going to be of any real help or are they mostly hype? They have a ton of sweeps, tones, Pink noise, which should be helpful in some aspect even if the rest of the specialty music tracks and stuff are useless. Either way, between the equipment I've got already and you guys' guiding I'm certain I can make my ears happy in due time.

I started doing that once Sean, at your recommendation at that point in time, and got busy with so many other things I haven't had a chance to get back to it. I do think I will begin it again and finish it this time so I can report on the findings. Thanks for chiming in here. I figured if I can get the two of you in on it I may have a chance at learning what I need to learn to gain the experience necessary to make this thing a real SQ machine. I'm sure you understand, but I doubt you know how bad I really would love to get as close to perfection as possible.

I just happen to have a 4 channel JBL sitting in my office at work. Unfortunately I don't have an easy place or way to hook it up and mount it. As with the first set of components I had in the truck when I first started working on it, I tried moving the tweeters all over the place to get the best response and this set, like the last seemed to sound best in the same spot in the doors. The difference is that I'm listening much more critically to it than I was then AND I now have a HU with much better crossovers, EQ's and DTA which has changed the entire paradigm by which I listen to it and decide what to do about it. Ugh, ignorance truly is bliss. You're also correct the HU does not have independent L&R EQ capability. I can honestly say if it had more bands, plus seperate L&R capability it would be the ultimate unit. Hell, give it that and the ability to adjust it separately for each of the six channels and the thing would be unstoppable. I think though, if I were going to go through the trouble of doing all that, that I may as well begin planning on how I should go about going active with raw drivers or look at the big midbass and full ranger options. I would imagine that even ran active the components will have more limitations to overcome than it would be worth spending the time for, am I thinking right on that?

It's pretty run of the mill, I've got a picture of how it looks below. It's a 2001 GMC Jimmy and currently has a pair of the Bravox CS60K components powered by a Sundown 125.2. Mids are in the stock locations mounted in very heavy duty MDF baffles which bring them out from behind the factory door panel, but unfortunately aim straight across to the other side. Doors are deadned with Second Skin CLD and RaamAudio POI CCF. I have SDS CCF and MLV to go on the doors, but I need to fix the hinges and work on attaching the door panel better before I put the MLV in. The tweeters are mounted on the door panel a couple of inches above the mid. Crossovers are mounted in the foot wells and the tweeters are set to the 0dB setting on the crossovers. As for the tuning capabilities, I have everything the Clarion CZ702 has to offer which is 3 way active capability, DTA for the six separate channels, full high/low/passband crossover capability for all six channels, and a 5 channel PEQ that can be set for any frequency from 20hz to 20,000hz in very small steps (i.e. 20, 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 70, 80, 90, 100hz, etc.) IIRC. So, at this point it really does pretty decent. I get midbass response that belies what most would expect from the 6.5" mids, the stage sounds wider than the truck but it ranges from the floor up to just level with the top of the dash. Imaging is pretty much a mess though. At times the instruments can be localized and sound believable, and at others it sounds as though they're everywhere at once, and on occasion when you can localize something on the stage it can sound as though it goes from higher up to down toward the floor as it shifts from a higher octave to a lower one, for example. I would imagine these are problems that everyone experiences, but don't care enough about it to do anything to fix it. I'm getting to where I want it better though.