altoncustomtech

Nope, on the Fi Facebook page. I'm proud to say I was the first to do both, not that it helps my chances, but it makes for unique bragging rights. LOL

The sub is on the 1/2 channels, gain about half, LPF is on and looks like it could be set alright. The amp doesn't have an SSF so my bet is on overexcursion tearing up the tinsels.

Done, woohoo!!

Sure, I think we can do that. Too bad you didn't live closer, we'd just meet up and save us both the trouble, lol. Yep $150 shipped, it's yours. You did look at the pictures right? Understand everything about it?

It certainly is.

You could make it to my place a little faster at 7 hours and I'd help ya with them.

Another BUMP.... TTT

That amp is actually my little brother's. When/If I go to playing with this thing it'll be in the Jimmy on the SAZ-1500. Like the DCON 15 I bought from Sean, I really don't have any intended use for it, I just couldn't pass it up. LOL Where's that thread, you know you have a car audio addiction when......

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I used the CLD tiles on only 25% of each part of the door (inner skin and outer skin) then covered the whole door with CCF (a few layers in certain spots). The baffle doesn't have to be that deep or thick. I made it so because I wanted it to peek out just a bit from the surface of the door panel. However if you were to measure it and build it right you could have the mounting surface of the baffle meet the back of the door panel, then you could cut out the factory grille and mount the speaker. It would look as though it's mounted to the door panel, but it would have the baffles directly behind it giving the speaker the solid mounting it needs. It would be a bit tricky to do, but it's definitely doable. It is indeed 3/4" MDF. The same MDF I built the amp rack from and began building the enclosure with before the parts cleaner in the shop turned it into mush and ruined it.

Really, you don't want to permanently seal them, if you ever have to work on the window track or anything like that you (or the mechanic/technicain who's working on it for you) want to be able to access that stuff without too much difficulty. As for the baffle, there's a bunch of different ways you can do it, but as was previously mentioned you will want at a minimum some CLD on the sheet metal where it's going to mount. I also believe that if you utilize the techniques that Don mentions on the Sound Deadener Showdown website that covering the access holes individually will not be necessary and it will make it very easy to get to the internals if necessary. The CCF and MLV will block/absorb the back waves and make sealing the access holes only useful as an extra guard measure. As for the door panels and the baffles, depending on how the panel is made you may be able to get by fairly easily on modifying it without much work, like my Jimmy turned out. Otherwise it may take some custom work to get the baffles and speakers out from behind the panel and still look really good. Here's some pictures of the process I went through on my Jimmy to help give you some ideas. First off, the way the factory grilles were molded into the door it allowed for an EASY way to remove the factory grille and still look good. Then, I built the baffles to hold the speakers and protected them from the elements. The next step was sound deadening. Then I installed the baffles and the speakers. While I've only got CLD and CCF on the doors so far (MLV and more CCF is waiting in a box not 3' from my chair), between the sound deadening, baffles and in small part to the quality of the speakers themselves, I get midbass from these 6.5's that I can feel. The result is the best I've gotten to date and has me looking forward to trying the high end separates in the future, but for a mid-level component set they're surprising. I feel that these relative kinds of installation techniques are the only way to get the full potential from your speakers no matter the brand or quality, this should be the minimum installation performed. Ideally the better would be more ideal placement, aiming, etc., but not everyone is comfortable or capable of DIYing that much work. Hope this helps.

God knows I'd LOVE to buy that ICON just to have it, I just can't bring myself to spend the money right now. Bump for a great guy and seller though!

Bumpity

I'm boring as all hell, especially on weekends like this one when I'm on call. Besides working a little I'm going to try to take the oldest two kids out and teach them to shoot with my old single shot 20 gauge. Should be pretty entertaining, I think I need to get the 'ol video camera out and charged, lol. I'm also certain some four wheeler riding, dirt throwing, mud slinging and general rough housing will also be part of the weekend festivities.

Resurrecting this from the depths. Still have both the sub and amp sitting in the closet waiting for a good home, both still in the exact same condition they were when the thread was started, and still asking the same price for both. Long time BUMP.

Okay, here's the finished product, specs are same as above. Drew in the rounded port corners, rounded the top of the enclosure and last few pics are basically what it will look like when it's completed. Here's the cutsheet first. Here's the baffle brace, shows it's placement on the front and this isn't set in stone just as a reference. Here's the loading brace, it will (hopefully) help ensure the woofer isn't unloading due to it's proximity to the port and will help some with bracing. Again placement is relative and shown as a reference. This shows the sub cutout and flush. It shows a diameter of 12.5" for the flush mount, it should ideally be a little larger than that for a little wiggle room. This one gives an overview of all the cut panel dimensions, where and how they fit together. And this is basically what it will look like when it's completed. So, that's the design. If you need any explanations or further help with it don't hesitate to ask. I hope it's not too hard to understand the cutsheets and such.

True, but I would venture to guess that 90% of the guys doing it don't get the hole that perfect. I never got that close until I picked up the circle jigs and even then I've cut them slightly oversized because the manufacturer didn't specify the cutout size that accurately.

Awesome, I'm glad it's what you're after. I'll get started on finishing it up. Thanx for the info on ur plans to finish it, I think you'll really like the next pics I post of it.

Yep. Got it yesterday, lol! Time to get busy on it.

LOL, I know how you feel. I'm still learning how to use that damn program and it's taken me a couple of years to get to where I can do most of the things I try doing with it. This rendering of my XCON 10 was the most complicated thing I've tried so far. I drew it before I ever had the sub in my hands so I don't think it came out too bad considering I had to do almost all the measurements from the little bit that's posted and guesswork. I'd love to be able to do a lot better with it though.

It's drawn in Sketchup, the calculations are done with an excel spreadsheet of my own making.

I've found the best bet for taking care of the nut hanging over the edge of the hole can be taken care of with a few simple steps. After drilling your holes in the baffle slide the bolt through the hole and thread the T/hurricane nut on backwards. Mark the amount hanging over with a marker or something similar. Remove the nut from the bolt and use a grinder or similar tool to remove the part of the nut that would otherwise be sticking out into the mounting hole. Then install as normal keeping the area the material was removed from lined up with the mounting hole. Depending on the frame of the driver and how well it's centered in the hole when you mark the screw/bolt hole locations it's entirely possible a whole tang or barb on a regular Tnut could be overhanging which is where I would suggest following the tips with utilizing glue to ensure the nut stays put, or use a hurricane nut.

Damnit, I've got to get me a good measurement tool for doing the same thing. I've not got any real dips in frequency response that I can easily pick out, but I have some peaks that need taming. While I can get REALLY close, I've not yet been completely successful in taming the peaks completely. I'm gonna have to look a little closer into this RTA. So far your plan seems solid to me. I'm looking forward to your findings.

I have the same HU and it has a fantastic set of controls with it's crossovers, eq, DTA etc. but it can be a bit overwhelming if you're not familiar with what all that does or how to use it. In the NORMAL mode it will run the crossovers in the most basic way they can be set. It will only allow high pass filtering for the front and rear speakers and low pass for the sub at 60hz, 90hz, and 120hz. MOST people run their components at around 90hz on the high pass filter, depending on the speakers and amp you may even be able to get by with 60hz. It's no big deal to turn them on and play with which frequencies give you the best sounding response as in your case in that mode it won't do much and you don't have to worry about hurting anything with it. When you turn on the filters it's going to reduce the amount of bass/midbass that plays through the Focal's, plain and simple. The frequency you set it to determines what frequency in the bass/midbass it starts to filter. Not much more to it than that, just keep in mind it's not a shelf or an instant reduction that NOTHING below that plays. It has a roll off, like a hill, and if you think of the frequency setting being at the top of the hill, the frequencies below that setting are gradually reduced in strength as you go farther down the hill. Hope that helps to make some sense of it.

Here's a quick rendering. Final specs after adding the double baffle is 2.99cuft NET tuned to 32hz with the same 47.25sqin of port area. I was able to get the double baffle in without really eating up any of the internal volume thanks to the extra volume that was in for the bracing. Onto the pics. So, at this point if you like it, I can finish the design and get you the cut sheets. Two quick questions: 1. Do you have a router with a roundover bit? I can show rounded edges on the enclosure, port, etc. 2. Do you know how you want to finish the enclosure? (Colors, carpet, vinyl, bedliner, etc.)