altoncustomtech

Happy Birthday Jon!!

You can always try removing the speakers from the rear deck, deadening the deck, trunk lid, and other areas of the trunk itself, trying the box facing forward and back, moved as far as you can forward or toward the back, and any other combination that a person can think of. Even if all that didn't work, you're not out any money moving things around or pulling the rear speakers, and deadening the trunk and all associated panels is something you should do anyway, then worry about new subs. My money is on you noticing a difference by opening the rear deck, deadening, and finding the sweet spot for those 12's.

To me, your line of thought is completely wrong for the goals you're wanting to achieve. If the EXACT same subs, box and amp in another vehicle get louder and give the output you're looking for then there's nothing wrong with your subs, box or amp, you need to work on the installation in the vehicle. Your money would be WAY better spent ensuring you're getting the most out of your current vehicle than buying all new equipment and still having issues getting the bass out of the trunk and into the cabin of the car. The vehicle not allowing good transfer of the bass in the trunk to the cabin of the car isn't going to magically get better just because you got bigger subs and more power, you're still going to have a bass stifling vehicle. Is there a solid plate behind the back seats? If not, and the box can fit up in there, remove that insulation board again and turn the box around to face the cabin. Slide it all the way up against the back of the seat and take some towels, rags, or whatever you can find and stuff it in around the box to seal it to the cabin of the car. If you gain some output after that, then you've got some idea of what you need to do. I just don't see the point in spending all that money on new equipment to just have the exact same problem with the new stuff. Eliminate the REAL problem you have and make absolutely sure you're getting all that you can from your current setup before throwing money at things that have nothing to do with the problem at hand.

Donated again after payday.... Plan to do so after each one, hopefully it will help put a fair amount in there.

I agree. Should you ever decide to upgrade things in the future you'll be a step ahead with larger wire already in place. One run of 1/0 isn't that much more expensive than 4awg.

That really doesn't work that well. The impedance of the driver(s) changes with frequency. The amount of wattage the driver(s) actually sees changes due to that fact. If a person was to use a voltmeter and an amp meter to plot the impedance curve they could plot the power applied at several frequencies and get a very accurate reading. However that's a lot of trouble. It's much easier to simply set it by ear. Play some music that you're REALLY familiar with, listen for stress and smell for a hot coil from the driver. I've been doing this for years and have almost always done it by ear.

As said, there's no set calculation for it, although you can roughly estimate it. For example:Say you were planning on using a single 2kw class D sub amp on a sub at 1 ohm. Let's assume the amp is 75% efficient at full power with that 1 ohm load. It would take AT LEAST 25% more power than it's rated to make that 2kw into that 1 ohm load, so 2.5kw input power or 208 amps of current assuming 12 volts of input voltage(2500/12=208.33). None of that math is exact, not anywhere near real world perfect at all, but hopefully it helps give you an idea on how to calculate and get an idea of the kinds of power requirements it might take to run at full tilt. There's a great number of losses and things that affect how much input power an amp is going to need to make output power. Figuring it like that is also off due to the duty cycle or dynamics of the music. Unless you're listening to nothing but Bass Boy CD's or test tones the amplifier will rarely be making that kind of current draw. There's also big debates on how accurate the listed efficiencies of amplifiers really are. I've come to expect to figure 50% for Class AB (highs amps) and about 75% for Class D just to keep it realistically, and often, a good smidge on the overkill side. It's easier to go a little overboard and have more capacity than you really need from the start than it is realize it afterward and have to buy more wire, batteries, etc. and find, build another, or rebuild a place to put it all.

to the forum!

I found the owner's manual on Sony's support site and plugged the T/S into WinISD. It suggested almost 3cuft at 27hz tuning as default, which seems a bit out of sorts. The manual suggests .62cuft sealed and .84cuft ported tuned to about 41hz, which is also not ideal. In my honest opinon, something in the neighborhood of 1.75 to 2cuft or so tuned in the mid-lower 30's would do fairly well. That sub, like many others I've modeled in WinISD tend to only look good with uber large enclosures. I've definitely found that those subs do work better in larger enclosures, but sometimes the WinISD suggestions get outright stupid. I think this one is pretty close though which is why I suggest around 2cuft tuned to 32hz for each sub or 4cuft for both. Also, for $15 each, who the hell cares they're Sony's. For that price, and intentions on using them for just messing around, that's pretty hard to beat and sure as hell not arguable. Nice grab.

to the forum!!

The shipping weight on my D2 XCON 10 is 45lbs. according to the UPS shipping label.

Hmmm... Mabye yours just had a design fluke, I have pushed and pulled on the connectors and wires themselves WAY too much (frusterated HU install ) and have never broken any of em. You know you could just unscrew the end cap and resolder the wire to the connector? Or call up KNU, they'd probably just replace them. I'm also using the Karma SS in the Jimmy with no issues.

to the forum!

to the forum!

LOL.... I have to agree. Out here in the middle of nowhere we have deer running around everywhere. My wife says on many many occasions that the system in her van is the best deer horns we've ever had, lol.

I have love for the Q's. I have a pair of 12's in 4.2cuft tuned to 32hz. What everyone says about the differences between the Q & BL is true and why people who ask should go with the BL is simply because most people who get the Q aren't satisfied with the output and end up getting something that gets louder later on down the road. I'm not talking the next month or anything, but the vast majority do eventually migrate up to something else. I am more than satisfied with the output I get from the Q's. They're louder than anything I've owned before them, and can very well produce more output than I'm willing to listen to on a regular basis. I have different listening tastes than most people do, especially around my area and people I talk to online, and they do exactly what I need them to and more. I've found though, that a lot of people I show them off to are looking for even more output. I get all kinds of comments on how good they sound, how accurate they are and how powerful they feel, but almost every one of those comments follows with a "it could be louder" sort of comment. You're going to love the Q, how good it sounds, how low it goes and how much authority it has doing so, but I'm certain that sometime next year you'll be looking at replacing it with something louder.

to the forum!!

I would definitely build them before buying. My last employer let me install a system in the company truck which was a '98 F150. I used my router to lightly recess the adapters so the speaker wouldn't rub the panel. I did this on two adapters per door, sandwiching the sheetmetal between them. This gave me a 1 inch thick, super stiff baffle to mount the mids to. Hell, I think I may still have them somewhere. I wish I had a good recommendation on a set of components for you. My limited sampling of the many offerings, especially in your price range, just leaves me with little to offer. I like my Bravox CS-60K's and my Atlas components. The Phoenix Gold RSD's weren't too shabby. I own a set of the Image Dynamics CTX's, but haven't listened to them yet, same as the Bravox CS603CF's. I've heard a few sets of JBL's of various models that were all different, but good.

to the forum! To continue the broken record, that amp will run the DCON very well.

I donated. Glad to help out!

I'm quite certain their not AGM. I had a BUNCH of these given to me by the place I work for (so they didn't have to pay disposal fees) and had nothing but trouble with them on the stuff I used that had a lot of vibration such as the kids' power wheels vehicles, go cart and even my DRZ400. For stationary stuff like UPS's, security systems, etc. they're great batteries and will last a long time. I don't think they're trustworthy in any mobile application though.

The issue will be in charging. The battery that ak11667 mentioned may have a 12v tap for the electronics on the car that can't handle the 16+ volts of charge, but all cells inside the battery are the same and the battery as a whole is designed to charge as such. Having a seperate 2v cell that has it's own internal resistance differences and charging properties would probably not charge correctly when paired up with a 12v battery like that. Why do you need a 14v battery for in the first place? If you're not competing the two extra volts aren't going to make any usable difference for you anyway.

to the forum!

Um, I'm pretty sure that everyone tried to explain to you what you needed to do in your other thread, and it sure wasn't continuing on with the smallest possible enclosure and minimal port area as you were already trying to do. A larger enclosure, with more port area is what you need to do. Getting a larger amp wasn't going to help, and neither is trying to go with this plan. I really don't want to sound like a prick, but dude we gave you the info you needed in your other thread.

Okay, here goes nothin'