pimpedout97x

lol have yall missed me any? (i know, you havent) anyways, im getting closer to finishing my setup in the mini...i promise ill listen this time, i just wanna hear your suggestions on crossovers for my tweets. the amp will be a MTX TA7402. 300w x 2 @ 1 ohm. will be 16 tweeters, 8 per channel, in parallel, so each channel will be running 8 tweets @ 1 ohm, (300/8 = roughly 38w per tweet) this amp has a pretty nice HPF built in from what it looks like too. so, instead of running one of those 3.3uF caps for a "crossover" what do you suggest? i know i should keep the slope high, around like 36dB or something right (so they dont blow?) what should i cross them at though, and would i be able to use 2 passive crossovers (1 per channel) for all 16 tweets? thanks reason im asking is becuase yesterday i was messing with one of the tweets, and i played it (low volume off my reciever) with no crossover, and then i put the cap on it, and its just too high of a crosspoint. the cap i think yall said was what, 6k hz? if thats not right, what is the cap crossing it at, and what slope? oh, and the tweets im refering to above were eminence APT-80s. im gonna get a price on 10 more (i have 6 now) but if they're too much, i might be switching to audiopipe atx3230's, pretty much the same thing, but i can get 16 of them for about 11 each brand new...they come with those caps soldered on them from the factory, that i can just take off. another option, what i really want (gotta get a price on them) is the Power Acoustik NX-5 bullets. they look alot cleaner, and they're black. so those are the 3 options. all should use pretty much the same crossover point and slope i guess. or should i get 1 active 3 way crossover, and use it to cross everything (MT, power acoustik mids, and tweets) ? i know yall wont like this either, but i kinda like the mids playing full range (with just using the HPF on the amp) lol! ok im finished being retarded lol

how about nobody was calling me names, yet i've gotta be an ethug. even though these people are trying to help me and just being flat brutal about it, i can't seem to grow up jsut a wee bit and accept there are those that know more about this stuff then i do. so, like fryman, i will take a break, courtesy of mrray13, and maybe when i get back i will somewhat understand the the point these people are making. that point? take pride in what i do, listen to those who have been there and done that and maybe when they offer advice, they won't talk down to me. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i make my wiring neat, but thats different. when i take the box out, the paint, neat or not, isnt going to be tangled up. wire will, therefore it benefits to make it neat. i dont need to make my point, becuase you will see the need to make your point as well, so ill just stop the arguing. jim, theres some on DIYMA that like my log, the others, be that as it may, they ignored me, which is what you need to.

nope, no hope. this seems to be the only forum to give me crap, this and maybe one of the MINI cooper forums. its been said and ill state it again, you SQ guys come across snobby to the SPL guys, just becuase you dont like it. i see no one commented on my comparison with the back of the door panel....why paint the back of a nice fiberglassed panel, if you're only going to see the front? same concept with this. there will be front and rear trim panels completely sealing off the cabin and the trunk from any gaps to the top or sides of the box, why waste time and money on getting the paint to look nice, when no one, not even me, will see it when finished? theres no answer to that, becuase theres no point. its all good though, you guys will continue to say what you want.

dude you cant "gaurentee" anything. you dont have my car so you dont know what im working with. i think i can handle it you can barely see thru the 5% now (when the box is in) but when u look close, you can see the color of the wood. i slide a piece of black material there, and looked thru the glass, and you couldnt see it at all. also, just a thought, but the uneveness of the paint.....might that possibly be becuase i was taking pics AS I WAS PAINTING, therefore its still WET? you guys look that far into things, but dont even consider it was still wet? its a flat even coat now....but thanks for talking crap yet again without knowing everything.

not really...its like making glass door panels...if the back will never be seen, why paint it to match the front? same concept. you guys look way too far into things, really.

thanks, and thanks for not being a smart-ass like Jim. ill do this today and get pics

what would i use to cut such a groove?

cut a groove long ways and staple the fleece into that?

and the inside of my windows are going to get their feelings hurt becuase it does? no. i stated above, i only did it to darken it so you dont see the bare wood thru the tint on bright sunny days. you wont see it since its black now. why on EARTH would i waste time and money sealing and sanding before paint??????? its not going to be seen dude. AT ALL. EVER, until i remove the whole setup. ok. good idea, but no need to, becuase none of it will be seen....its all getting covered by a trim panel that will completely seal the cabin off. these people hear fail to understand that though....but just wait until its finished....

was waiting for someone to say that. my question is, why? its just to darken it up so you cant see it through the windows. thats all. why seal it up and waste money and time? no point.

took the box out to resin inside, glass around the rings for the 6.5s, and paint the sides/top black. reason for painting is becuase i have a sunroof (yes, in the back) and the 2 back windows is like 10" away from the box, and even with 5% tint, when the sun was really bright, you could see the birch a little. i have 16 cans of black paint from walmart laying around, so i figured why paint it, rather than spend more and throw another layer of 5 on the windows, the paint was only 97 cents each lol. woulda backed out, but dads trailer was blocking the garage i kinda wanted to paint the whole thing, looks kinda cool black lol.

no one is "giving" me advice, unless you're refering to all the manufactor's that make bullet tweeters, and include te 3.3uf 100v caps with them, and reccomend that you use them, if you dont have a crossover. you say theres a bigger risk of blowing them. must not be that big, if people have been running 10+ of them in their cars, with only a cap on each one (and the HF on the amp set) and theirs havent blown....i understand its not the PROPER way to do it, but again, theyre loud, harsh sounding tweeters. theyre not seas or any other SQ type tweeter. you keep saying that im doing it becuase others do, and yes, im going to use the caps becuase others have used them, and never had a problem blowing them. selenium, eminence, audiopipe (although not the best brands) but if they reccomend the cap to be used with their own product, i think it would work. even though its a 6dB slope, its crossing them at 6k hz..i dont think any frequencies 6k and above are going to blow these tweeters. if i take the same cap and put it on a 4 ohm driver, it crosses at 12khz, and a 2 ohm driver is 24k.......

you say they're going to blow, yet all the others use them and they dont blow, thats what makes me wonder where you're pulling this info from...

again, a majority of people running bullets use the caps instead of crossovers, becuase if you cross these too low, and if the slope is too low, they blow. has to be like a 36dB slope/octave, and like 4-6khz, also, i do have an EQ, a kicker KQ5. as for the world finals comment, your example is completely opposite. i would commit suicide if all the other people did it. basically what you're saying is that im jumping on a bandwagon because everyone else is running a ton of mids and highs. im not. obviously i hear it all the time around here, its what i like, THATS why i run the speakers i do, not becuase i feel the need to "fit in" with other people around here.....if i lived in another state where theres 1 guy in the whole state that had bullets and PA mids, and i heard it and liked it, id probably run them as well. doesnt mean im trying to "copy" or "be like" that guy.... "

i dont call my music SQ, i say it "sounds good enough for me" true, ive never really heard a TRUE SQ setup, which i want to hear one when i find someone local with a true sq setup, but hearing a setup that sounds incredible isnt going to change me liking how bullets and PA mids sound.... now if i did a small SQ sub setup, i wouldnt want all those mids/highs, overpowering the sub stage. when i have an MT behind me, and my explorer, 4 MTs, i just wanna go crazy with mids/highs since the bass is already straight up SPL bass, not SQ bass. why waste money on SQ speakers when i have subs that were designed for SPL?

what 2 way would you get? and not use the caps?

i do have an amp just for the tweets. the HPF will be set, as well as the 1st order crossover. did you think i was going to be running these with the mids on the same amp? lol

i bet your son is going to have one HELL of a system in his first car, and completely pwn every kid in high school! nice work steve, cant wait to see vids on this thing. take those spinners off please!!! dont wait, take them off now!!! lol

no need to make it better if its what i like....i understand that none of you like it, i do though, you act like im the only one lol....did you see pics from world finals in tampa? count how many cars you saw with MULTIPLE mids and bullet tweeters....they like it to, its for loud, not sq. i cant even ask a simple question on this site without you jumping down my throat dude, it gets old, enough with it already.

Well the audio pipe tweets come with the 3.3uf 100v cap, I'm not running a 3way xover in the mini, so I'm just gonna use these. They will be on a kicker kx300.2, 3 per ch, so it'll be 2.6 ohm I believe per channel.

a 3.3uF MFD 100V cap, they use those on the tweets....says for 8 ohm drivers it crosses them @ 6k ive got some other ones that say 100WV (not 100V like the other ones i have) and they say 3.3MFD 10%...are they the same? also, "non-polar" what does that mean? someone said it means that it makes the amp not know what load the speakers are at

dont know if that was a smart ass reply or not....but usually bass/loud highs distort on camera....

my friend has one

pretty much. MAJOR sanding. i need to stretch the fleece around the mids, glass that, then sand sand sand. im going to round the port as well.