Hell-Razor

Well I was told today the power power you can throw at a speaker the better they will preform at higher volumes. This true?

I have a lot of test tones...tell me want you want and ill email you some. well pm me them and your email

I was googling around and found this. But this just explains the rules of a dB drag, nothing more... And I don't know if these are just the rules for one set of competitions held by one company, or the national rules that everybody follows,...

I have always wondered about some of the lingo used on these forums when it comes in competitions... Anyway what is a Bass Race vs a dB drag? Or a SQ event? How are they measured? I am sure I missed a few different race names but what are they? How are they all different? How are they measured?

Are you nuts? if done right the BTL can sound awesome...

Alright well seeing as somebody doesn't like me making new posts to try and keep on topic, Ill just keep on posting here. I went to the store today and listened to some JL C2-650 components speakers and I liked what I heard. When compared to a lot more expensive ones I heard more layers it seems like. I am looking more for a mids and highs though than bass and these ones seemed to be close to what I liked. They sounded more lively than the Hertz ones in my opinion but not as clear (if that makes sense). The hertz ones I listened to have a little better low than these ones did but with a 18" in the trunk I don't think I am too worried about the lows. The Hertz also seemed like the music was in waves. The highes felt like they were coming from above and the lows from below. What I didn't like about these speakers were the feeling that the sound wasn't next to me. It sounded like the sound was coming from far off (not too much or too less treble I just don't know how else to explain it. It may be able to be fixed by messing with a eq). The highs seemed like they could be a little bit higher but they weren't screechy or even close to it (i think). The guy that was helping me out turned them up pretty loud and they sounded nice. I have to say they match up to my Sennheiser HD280 headphones if I were to compare them to something else. Overall I liked the highs and mids and somewhat lows. I think if they had a little bit higher response that would be nice. The price was just rite for me too. I wouldn't order them from the company I was at because they had them for 399$. It would be nice to maybe get more of the effect of the levels I was trying to explain before. As well as maybe a little more depth? The song I was listening to was a song close to . There is some crackeling in the beginning and throughout the song. On the hertz it felt like the crackling was a blown speaker for example. It was behind the music. As for the JL ones I was looking for it sounded like the crackling was hardly there. Overall, if I didnt find another speaker better for the price (I could probably go up to 250$) I would most likely be happy with these until I figured everything out. As far as powering these, would I be good with tossing the SAZ-50.4 at them if I decided to get them? Or would I want more power?

There is no break in period. Bang that shit as hard as you would any other day. Break-in period is a myth.

Would you guys recommend any other brands for the money? Say I bought them normal price, which was 250$ I f I remember correctly, would you buy them if this was your first build? I am going to run to the store right now and try to see what I can come up with. The only problem is is the closes decent audio store around here carry's Hertz (which is not sold online) and usually jack the price up.

I just got one response from somebody that gave me useful information. And they have heard them as well. As far as I know, nobody around where I live has any SS audio products.

Well I am pretty sure I have made up my mind and just wanted to know what you guys thouht of the SS RF-60C speakers. I have been reading decent reviews and found them for about 175$ shipped. Are they worth it? Also how much power should I amp these speakers with? is there a key like don't go over 25% max rms for amplifying or something? http://techronics.com/caraudio_9003_Soundstream-RF-60C-Reference-6-5-inch-Component-Car-Audio-Speakers.html

how about a JVC KD-AVX77. little over my budget but offering a price on this it was offered to me at 476$. reviews on this one are awesome as well...

This headunit would work great for you its has a 24 bit dac, comes ready for ipod and bluetooth. Sonic electronix As for the box i ment 10 cubes as the external dimensions and i thought the port would be in the box and yes it will go form 10 external to around 6 internal if you put the port in the box. And as for the pins it is totally worth a shot. only problem with that head unit is that it seems amplifiers dont work too well with it. well according to the one review it has, he says "The remote wire left my amps setting silent from time to time" when using this head unit. not sure what that means but i dont think its good. he also said he RMA'd this one after four days. i dont want something like this with the moderate to bad review.

And back to the subject. A head unit.... I dont mind a "dead" head unit sense I will be installing an amp to power my speakers. I would like one around 300$ with (or the option of having) blue tooth. I really want to be able to use my iPod as well...

When you start to build the box I would start with a 10ft^3 box and as all the displacements are taking into account you would be near/around the 6ft^3. Displacements are things that take up area inside the box ie the port, the sub, and all bracing. As for the rubber tabs i would taking with all the vibrations they might fall out but i just guessing. i have taken the displacement into factor when im talking about the size of the box. and plus im using an external port which is just like a hole cut in the side. i dont know of any boxes that is cut in half after the displacement of the woofer and bracing though... i dont know what kind of boxes youre building. and with the tabs i was talking about they are basically a wedge that i would put on both of the sides of the board and drive them in with either my fingers or a mallet depending on how tight the connection is. they may or may not fall out but its worth a shot (they most like 45 cents for four)

ah so if im going more than 2k rms the smaller end is alright? say like 6" or 5.25 to 5.5? (i wouldn't want to try and push anything below the 5.25 cubic feet mark for only 500 more watts). I was thinking of cutting a slit in the top to slide another board in and then secure it with special removable rubber tabs my uncle uses. i know trying to do this would create some sort of rattle, do you guys think the rattle would do anything? it would be minor i would think and most likely drowned out

The wood I already have, screw are no problem, but the rings and disconnects and whatnot i would need to get. no idea how much they cost.

two Powermaster XC batteries should be enough. I know somebody that's doing 3500+ watts (on these forums at least) with a stock alt and two aux batteries. Woofer - about 515$ including shipping Amp -- Depends on either the AQ 2200D or the SAZ-3000D. Bot good amps but the SAZ would power the BTL better. the 2200D is about 450$ shipped.. i cant find how much a saz -3000 or a good 2500 watt amp would cost though Front stage -- (in process of picking, probably the SS RF-60C speakers, 200$ shipped about) + amp which i wouldn't want to spend more than 250 on. Headunit -- Still picking. Amp wiring -- Should be cheap(er), i would think no more than 75$ Big 3 wiring -- Eh, about 30$ tops sound deadening -- I have a bunch of sound deadener already, no need MDF -- ...MDF? Alt -- later, probably wont need but ill get a volt meter after all this gets installed to make sure im not dropping below what i want 2 batteries -- there about 325$ non shipped... soo 750$ tops for two? Speaker wiring -- I have some decent gauge speaker wire and quality, i wouldn't think i would need that special of wiring for my front end.. 0 gauge though for 20? 30? feet i would say could be expensive. according to knukonceptsor whatever it is 50 feet is about 200 shipped. Extras -- what else may i need? My guesses so far (may be high) is 2470....err im a getting close! i hope i am high on my cost and not low. I am planning on installing the front end, amp, head unit first though and then pay most of it off. Also I am selling my old car (anybody want a 2003 Alero, awesome condition with 90k miles? 5500$ ) So I should be able to stretch my budget to 3500$ but that's very tops. And i almost forgot about the trunk... its like 40 x 39 x 20. enough for a btl. If I were to fill the entire trunk as a box it would be roughly 15.8 cubic feet. the btl only needs 5-10 cubic feet so im thinkin of building one about 39 x 20 x 20 so i still have a little of room left (about 7.43 cubic feet in that box) to put the batteries, amp and maybe my backpack. Just thinking. What are th benefits of having...say a 10 ft cubic feet box vs a 5? like if somebody had the room would they be better off doing a 10 cubic feet box? Or would they be alright if they just made a 5 cubic feet box and left it at that. id like to make the box as small as possible but i don't want to compromise anything like quality of sound or loudness... also i will be making this box port an external port to save room. i will probably have the port removable to replace with a smaller or bigger so that i can easily "hot swap" it if im going to a comp. (what is it a smaller port for a comp? or is it bigger? depending on a SPL or dB drag or... any kind of comp?)

Correct. I would like to compete eventually. But I dont want a system that just "burps". I want to also use this car for a daily driver and street beater.Whats a TL? A tl(termlab) is the meter that is used to get your numbers What vehicle are you planning on using?? 2002 VW Passat Sedan style

Correct. I would like to compete eventually. But I dont want a system that just "burps". I want to also use this car for a daily driver and street beater.Whats a TL?

well cheaper the better obviously. I am hoping to stay under 3000 but if need be I can stretch it a little more. I know I want at least a 2500 watt amp, a 18" BTL, at least 1 Powermaster XS DC3100 battery and the biggest starting battery I can fit inside my car. I will probably upgrade my alt after I pay this all off.

Still lookin at those SS speakers. As soon as I get paid I think I am going to order them.

i dont have a single piece of equipment yet...not even wire

What I wont use? I haven't really said anything about what I wont use. I am all for unknown companies when it comes to anything cause I believe in helping them start out. Yes it may turn out to be junk but I understand that fully. I am just looking for a head unit. And I don't know what speakers I want yet for my front end so its hard to say what amp I am going to get. I am 90% sure I will be amplifying my front end though. If you don't know what an active crossover is, how are you going to use it? You mistook my post. STOP asking about this or that and instead describe your goals. So far all I can tell is you have read a bunch on audio boards and have been completely misled by reading posts from the wrong people. You aren't a 7200 buyer, you probably aren't a BTL buyer, and you surely shouldn't be looking at the Hertz set you defined. Can they all work? Sure, but for what you want they will all just cost you extra money. I know I am probably not the best at all of this and I am trying to figure it out. My goals are... to get the best damn system I can. I want something that plays death metal loud and clear but can also play classical just as well and then everything far and in between. As for the head unit (speaker conversation is here) I want something with blue tooth and able to work with my iPod touch first gen. If the head unit has an active crossover / whatever I will read up on it once I get there. Same with installing all this stuff, I have posted in the how-to section for a little help because I am starting to get things organized and put together... Now the reason why I put the Hertz is because thats what I heard at my local shop and I thought they sounded awesome. Sense its a waste of money sorry, that I did not know. I am just basing everything I figured out about those speakers sense I was able to touch them, to hear them, to mess around with some of the settings on the deck that's why I picked them. Also same with the deck, the deck that was connected to the hertz speaker was the 7200. The shop guy moved the wiring from one deck to another and I have to say the 7200 is the one that made a huge improvement and all that he did was move the wiring from deck A to deck B, nothing tweaked. Yes it may be a marketing scam to get us to buy the best one but I dont know and that is why I am on here to find a head unit. What do you guys think of http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDAVX77/JVC-KD-AVX77.html?search=jvc+avx77&tp=20217 now? yes? no? Also. please take into account that when I start to learn more about tweaking and putzing around with stuff I would like to not think to my self "oh this was a waste, why did I buy this when all I had to do was spend 20$ more...) I would like some growing room. Thats why I want the BTL, thats maybe why I took into account the 7200....thats why. Simply put, I want speakers for a street beater and a comp car on the side. Am I expecting to blow people out of the water? Well kind of... Will I? probably not the first or second or third time, but I would like to. I am trying to tackle this project head on and so far I am getting run over...

I was actually looking at this one when I first started my head unit search...makes me happy somebody suggested the one I really liked!

I think I am now looking at the SS RF-60C speakers, what do you guys think of these?