Hell-Razor

Thats what I figured, thanks for all the great feedback

I am using the CSI-DMR-2012A volt meter and I am trying to measure the impedance of my speaker. So I set it to the 200 setting (lower right hand side if you look at the picture) and touch the probes to the terminals and I get 4.0 - 4.2. This is a two ohm speaker so shouldn't I be getting half that? If I did my research and talked with the right people I should be getting less than half of that current reading for a dual two ohm speaker. I liked this sub until I heard another and now I realize it does sound about half powered so something is wrong here...

After googling around and not having any luck I decided to post here because of the "vibration control" topic in this forum. I would like to mount my amplifier on the back of my box without rattling it to death. I have looked at some youtube videos ( and it looked like he has only a mdf board between his amp and box. I was looking and found several things on the net but lots of them are expensive:Silicone Anti-Shock mats Rubber Screws Anti - Shock pads Anti vibration mats I do have some of the foam they use to sound deaden recording studios so I was thinking just putting three or four mats of that sandwiched between either a soft or hard piece of wood to mount my amp on and then screwing it all together tightly using rubber screws. What do you guys think?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aQ4spoLy4Bf/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

If you go with sealed you could get three in there... I think I am going to go for straight cone area.. which would be 3 12" SSDs in a sealed box firing forward.

Alright update here -- I am stuck in a little predicament here... Do I build a new box or do I sell my DC Level 5 15" and go with 4 10" Fi BLs (or SSDs) and use my 3500D to power? OR Do I rebuild my box to see if that may be the issue (I think my 15 is lacking a good umph, but it does have a hell of an umph). Here is a design by Dave the Box Guy: that I will build if I decide to not change my setup: Aero Ports: One port in 2 ports in 12"-35 hz 12"-50 hz (Internal) 13"-34 hz 13"-49 hz (1 inch out) 14"-33 hz 14"-48 hz (2 inchs out) 15"-32 hz 15"-46 hz (3 inchs out) 16"-31 hz 16"-45 hz (4 inches out) 17" 30 hz 17"-44 hz (5 inches out) ** I'm thinking of either doing the 2 inches out or all internal** I am just having a hard time figuring out if this box will really be big enough for my 3500D and 1 DC level 5 15

Something happened before and I couldn't post, all fixed now. After reading the quick responses I will keep my 3500D for power! I will start up what I have in my head in my build log to try and keep things organized.

I updated just as you posted

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

I am still trying to figure out how does the SSD relate to the BL, anybody?

Oh shit youre right m5. I have no idea where i got that from... but still.. Equal power I assume the BL with out preform the SSD. Now the only question is do I have the space / money for it...

You could always COD it

Hey guys, I am looking at getting 4x 10" woofers (hopefully from Fi) and it looks like I am stuck between the BL and the SSDs. I like the SSDs because they can be put in a smaller box, but I like the BLs beucase they have better performance than the SSDs. My question is how much better? I dont think currently I will be able to toss 8k watts at all four 10s like the BLs require, but I will be able to eventually. I have the electrical to back it up as well. I am trying to switch from a single 15 to 4 10s and have the ability to probably almost double my power eventually. I am pushing a single 3500D with a 350 amp alty and three huge bats.

Very true... I could do the SSD instead of the BLs (even though I dont think their output is nearly as good but not 100% on that, anybody else know?) and do a sealed box because they only need .4 (.62 with displacement) and that would = about a 2.73 cuFt box.. Right now I have a 3.5 and have enough room for about a 4.25 box with amps and bats... Or I dont HAVE to go with fi...

Haha.. the "downgrade" was a play on words. I think it will be more sick than the 15 I have now but I am just curious how much more sick.... I need to upgrade one more bat (under my hood) and still do the big three.. I mean if I can sell my amp now and buy 4 10s and an amp and keep it under 1500 I may be able to do it. I would like to try and do around 3k power for all three (maybe 4k if the price isn't too much). I was thinking about BLs but those are like 350 shipped so thats 1400 minus what I could get for my system (I am hoping for around 1200) and that leaves about 1100 for a new amp...

Well I was originally going to do SPL comps but I haven't been to one in two years and I figure it may be time to move on.... So I figure, should I keep my 15 or sell it? I am thinking of doing a different build - from 1 15 to 4 10" woofers.. Not too sure what kind yet but probably Fi bls (or maybe qs) and strap one amp to them for now and if I want to upgrade it I have the electrical for it (3 bats in the trunk and a 350 amp) strap a bigger, or another amp on. But heres my question mainly - how will having more cone space but less power do? Will it be just as brutal if I tune low or will I be missing out a lot?

Well my trunk latch has failed, my license plate has fallen off and the back driver side door lock has stopped working sense I put in my system but.... I downloaded and cranked to the max, banged that at least three times in a row for some friends / spectators and I noticed after that the dust cap wasn't even warm. Now I take it this is a good thing (signal isnt being clipped) except does that mean I can be pushing that speaker harder? If so what should I try and do? I have my gain pretty high, my SSF is set to 30hz (box is tuned at 32hz and it just happens to be right where that song peaks for my car) and I am looking for more ideas.. thanks!

I just realized that I need to go 6 inches outside the box. And if I were going to bend the pipe (10.5 inches) using an elbow I would actually take up more room.. Well sob. This box may not work after all...

Well the port im using is 10.5 inches in diameter... i think thats a pretty big pipe... now two of those for tuning higher and thats a REALLY big pipe

Alright. Have any idea about the 90 degree angle? Im thinking it wont hurt the tuning that much.

Sweet! I like all the ideas... thanks a lot

I just got a box design confirmed by a few of my friends that it will work.. Now I do not have the space for it (doh). It is literally a few inches too big to fit in my trunk. Pretty much it is a 4 cuFt box tuned to 30hz using two removable aeroports. One removed keeps the tuning at 30hz, two in makes the tuning 44hz for comps. Now my question is what if I use pvc piping (I heard its not as loud because its not flared) and instead of having it come straight out, make a 90 degree angle as soon as it leaves the box... Anybody know what this would do for tuning? Or how to figure out with a box calculator what it may do?

YES! Thank you soooo much. I was racking my brain for the past half day trying to remember what they were called.

Well PROBLEM SOLVED! It was shitty soldering that did it. Well its not really solved but I am looking for something different besides using screws to carry the power through the box wall -- something that has a positive and negative terminal on it and its like something you put in the wall to the box.. I cant explain it better than that. My old old old system that I bought from a "we put it in your car" type store tossed one of those on. I just cant remember what they are called - it usually has red and black knobs on it that you can either screw in to hold the wire in place or its spring loaded.. I searched for about 45 minutes at the hardware store here in Madison but dont remember nor could I find one close.. Any suggestions on what I am trying to remember (or what they are called) would be sweet! EDIT: look at the picture on this page.. You see the red and black spring loaded switches on the back? thats what I am looking for

Sweet. I didnt even think about using a DMM. I assume if its bad it will show something lower than 3.x (assuming its a 4 ohm). Or higher? Or nothing at all? Is there anything else that may be if those show all good?