Lucky 76

does anyone have any experience with this unit ? ... can it do damage to anything in my car as it regulates the charge of your alternator to around 15.2 volts ... how easy of an install is it?

will do ... replace my sound quality with sounds good

i also read that you can strap them down to a 1 ohm load so .5 per amp ... is this true? ... if so how much power will they be putting out?

is that including the front battery? i am assuming no because that would only add up to around 560 amps

You do NOT want sound quality. Don't even begin to say you do. Ever again. read my definition of sound quality ... sound quality can be used in many way ex the sound quality of an exhaust can either be loud and grunty or it can sound quiet and smooth =) Your definition is stupid. If you aren't referencing your front stage you AREN'T talking about sound quality. Even if you were you are going to have severe hearing damage within the next six months so you might as well say fuck it from the first place. Speed is NOT an issue with any quality sub....but go ahead and buy the overpriced RE stuff. ya im not gonna get re n e more ... i dont know exactly what i am doing as far as amps and cubic feet go yet (need more exact measurements as far as cu ft) .... i am going to put this topic on hold for right now and i will have a better idea in the next month

what should my electrical look like to support these and the saz-100.4 ... i am debating on whether i want to buy 2 of these or just get the saz-4500d ... right now i have a 260 amp alt by iraggi and the stock was 130 amp ... i was thinking about buying some of the c and d 100 lb batteries (supposed to be comparable to the hc3800) ... how many would i have to buy to support this amount of power ... i understand i would need a bigger alternator but this is the biggest they make for my car and a dual alt setup is near impossible

alright thanks i will keep that in mind

i got the readings at advance today ... the code says ignition coil a,b,c,e,f,g, and h primary secondary ckt is it possible that these are not bad and the check engine light went on when the voltage dropped? ... i reset the system and all seems to be well (no check engine light)

You do NOT want sound quality. Don't even begin to say you do. Ever again. read my definition of sound quality ... sound quality can be used in many way ex the sound quality of an exhaust can either be loud and grunty or it can sound quiet and smooth =)

so i have narrowed it down to the re audio sx and mx ... i made up my mind and i will not be putting more than 1 saz4500 to these ... which would be the best choice ... i really like the looks of the re mx but obviously that is not as important as performance ... i want a hybrid between output and sound quality ... which would you choose?

it will not shake with the music off ... i remember it did it slightly with my stock alternator and my bxi2006 but no where near as bad

i should note that the music was playing techno ... my voltage drops were not that bad ... maybe to 12.8 .... i had my subwoofer set on -6 and i have it tuned at 0 on the deck so it is not seeing more than 2000w

k so today i noticed that when at a constant rpm my car will start chopping and shaking with the music on ... is this also a cause of the battery ... i just want to make sure before i go buy some batteries and then come to find out that that is not even the problem

thanks ... how many of these should suffice for the new saz4500 and 2 of the sax125.2 ... i have a 260 amp alt already

i cant find them anywhere that cheap ... do you think you can send me a link i cant find them on that website?

no1 is responding to this post so idk if n e 1 has n e more info either ... if u look at the link it seems to be a good battery ... i just dont know if i should get these or the powermaster d3100s

shawn i meant the code for my check engine ... i asked advance auto and they couldnt even test my alt with it off the car ... too them a half hour and they gave up ... struggled to figure out how to mount it on the bench tester lmao ... i want to find out exactly what the code is that way i can look it up and check out what happened

thanks ... how many d3100s should i buy for my system ... i am not replacing the front battery ... i was also thinking about getting the c and d technologies 100lb batteries instead ... which would be a better choice ... i have heard good things about the c and d batteries and i can get them for about 220 a piece

ok so then the current draw could also have caused the check engine light to turn on ... it said the charging system was fine when this happened ... if the check engine light did come on is it possible that i damaged the alternator? ... is there n e where i can get the code red for free? ... i would like to know if that happens again exactly what the code reads ...

def. I have been doing more testing on that, I considered removing the glass altogether and replacing it with metal, but the guys from team renots think I should'nt since glass is so reflective. They challengeed me to reinforce it and keep the glass. Are there any rules in db drags directly pertaining to sunroof changes/mods? I am thinking that I might have to find 2 dif solutions for the 2 sunroofs if there are on the rear sunroof I have made some good strides. I put 2 layers of 2nd skin on it as if it were window tint, then put a layer of that egg crate foam used to make beds more comfortable and a layer of poly fiber. to make a ghetto seal for it I used duct tape (temporary but works good for now) around the edges and then put the headliner back, closed the sunshade thats built into the headliner and bam worked like a charm and cant see the ugly parts at all. Only problem is if there are rules in dif leagues against doing this kind of stuff then it can be seen from the outside. guess I should put like 2 layers of 2.5% black tint on it and would solve that problem. of course i dunno how useful the reflective qualities of glass are when they are hidden behind a barrier like that, but its cheaper and easier then a metal replacement. for the front sunroof I bought a rubber pipe thats like a cross between a hose and a pipe (not too hard not too soft) and cut it in half length wise then placed it next to the weather stripping (making it the same length as the stripping) & used some silicone sealant to secure it. I then stuffed the area between the sun shade and glass with poly fiber. That works good but as my SPL gets closer to yours I dunno if its going to do much, I'm getting my new all out spl enclosure done in 2 weeks max along with alot of other upgrades, more batteries, zero gauge finally, and a few others I'm blanking on so I'll let once my numbers get up there how that works out on the roof. I know I'd love to make that soft azz sun shade more sturdy like metal or at least like a volvo S-60's is, do you know the style I mean? I did put 2 layers of dynamat on the inside of it to sturdy it and it would'nt roll back in properly, or at all, maybe I should have tried just one. I am painting the car next spring so I think before I do that I might just say F it and ditch the glass and give myself an all metal roofed TC. Do you thinjk I could get away with making the roof extra thick metal to min. flexing and not have to compete in the freakin super mod classes? Maybe I should just turn my tc into like a frankenstien scion crx-tc. Fort. I'll have all winter to brush up on my welding lol let me know what you think shizzzon, these are just a few things I tried just screwing around really and a few thoughts on things to try in future. i know its a little disorganized but I had a couple brews today to relieve stress after moving Grams to hosp. again and I rarely drink so I dont know if anything I just typed even makes sense or if I explained what I did right. honestly i feel silly giving ideas to you about this cuz after reading a ton of posts from you I bow down to your knowledge when it comes to car audio. But I fig. maybe some of the crazy things i post might spark a real idea in you so faq it, I'll keep trying :-) im going to have to do something similar to my sunroof ... thanx 4 the info

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alright then this is understandable ... let me just make sure this is acceptable as welll ... i was driving today with the music turned 30/35 on a techno song so quick bass but not that hard ... the car normally will charge cold at 14.4v with no accessories on ... the voltage would stay at around 13.8 and then shoot up to maybe 14.8 and then go back down again shoot back up to around there and then all of the sudden my check engine light came on ... i reset the system and the light turned off ... what would cause this? i was coasting downhill as well

so for some reason when the music is playing pretty loud (over 75% max) and my rpms are in excess of 2000 rpm the check charging system light flickers on and off like i stated in my first post ... it only does this on some songs ... what could be the cause of this

ive used about 100 feet of it ... it is incredibly light and hollow

the model number is UPS12-475fr (replaced by the UPS12-490MR).... would you say they are better than the powermaster d3100?