Lucky 76

the model number is UPS12-475fr .... would you say they are better than the powermaster d3100?

alright ill give that a shot thanks

http://www.cdstandbypower.com/product/battery/vrla/pdf/12_1029.pdf it is the 100 lb battery idk which one it is ik there is 2 of them ... how are they ... someone is selling them for around 250 each on a car audio forum ... they are supposed to be comprable to the kinetic hc3800 he said

i measured the voltage and the battery was readying 12.71 floating ... i did not charge the battery yet ... it seems to be good as far as that voltage goes ... is it possible that the battery can still be bad ... some weird things were happening today ... i was driving up the hill and the rpms were low and then it suddenly shifted up and then the battery light came on for a second ... also when i come to a stop the voltage will drop to what seems battery level (around 12.8) and then it will rise back up to charging level... the voltage has been all over the place ... this morning it was at 14.4 with no accessories ... then i turned it off and back on again a half hour later and it reads 14.1 ... turned it off and back on again another half hour its reading 13.8 ... this is all with no accessories on just running the car with nothing on ... i have not attempted to turn my music up yet

it could b the battery now that i am thinking about it ... it is not a deep cycle and has been in my car for over a year ... ill have to charge it over night and see the float voltage in the morning ... what should it b reading at float?

its an autocraft from advance auto parts

well thats reassuring ... how long can they take 2250 rms on music?

so i guess the sub was bad ... we took it out and now we have just one sub running ... now the other sub is doing it ... the amp is a hifonics bxi2006d ... it is running unclipped at 1900 watts at 1 ohm .... the subs are pioneer premier ts-w3002d4 ... is it possible that even tho these subs say they are rated for 1k rms that they only really handle less? ... i smelt the sub and it smells burnt even tho it is hitting like normal just with an annoying flap

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in right now but i dont believe the voltage drop should be that bad ... could it be my belt even though i have a tensioner spring? ... the pully is considerably smaller than the stock one

i do plan on just doing local comps and showing off ... my problem is it seems that whenever i build a box, upgrade my subs, upgrade my amps its never enough for me ... i love the way bass feels ... it brings my music to life with the 2 sets if re xxx 6.5s i have in the front ... idc if my stage is acoustically incorrect ... i probably wont go with another 4500 but just to be on the safe side i might as well get a sub that can take the power

these are the dimensions i have to work with ... this would be if i was to build the box inside the car which i am most likely going to have to do ... i am also willing to use birch instead of mdf so we do not need more layers of wood front baffle - 38 high x 47 wide back - 35.25 high x 38 wide i forgot what the middle piece was ... i will have to look again ... i have written down 20 x 47.5 which cant be right ... odds are it is 30 depths from top - 21 from middle - 30 from bottom - 36 this will probably only add up to around 21-22 cu ft i also have a 15 wide X 24 long X 12 high area if i took out the middle seat to the back of where the wall would go ... this could be where the port would come out i guess this is like 1.5 cu ft or so i would imagine thanks again shawn

i was thinking about the re mx myself ... i was just going to ask what you thought ... they are rated at 1500 rms ... ik re makes good products but can the mx take around 9k daily? also the sundowns r underrated and will prob put out more than that ... shizzon i got the dimensions and i will post them tonight ... its going to be tight and i might have to take out the middle seat for enough cu ft

i kinda want to leave the option to run a secon saz4500 if it permits ... if the dc level 4 xls are comp oriented does that mean they arent going to sound good with faster music?

what i mean by sound quality is i want it to hit the notes i throw at it (below 80 hz most likely 60 and under) and be able to keep up with the response of fast music like techno

the dc 4xl and nightshades dont sound as good as the xcons? what about some aa or sound splinter? ... would they be a better option ... i dont like the ia dustcaps lol ... i really do not know what to look for ... thats y im asking u guys ... u have more knowledge and exp than i do

it says there is one you can buy that converts it to db

nice progress ... how do u plan on reinforcing your sunroof?

idk if the xcons are the way i want to go ... how do the dc level 4 xls sound? .... what about the sundown nightshades?

I would recommend 1.75 - 2.5 (per woofer) net volume including speaker, bracing and port displacement. I would tune around the 33-38hz range. You could do a single chamber box and create a L-shaped slot port. alright thanks ... i am sorry i do not know if i am misinterpretting what you are saying ... do you mean 1.75-2.5 cu ft with the sub in or with the sub out ... i know i get all confused when displacement is used in a sentence lol With the sub, bracing, port, etc. in. So after you have all that in the box you should have 1.75-2.5 cu. ft. so if my sub was say .25 cu ft the box should be 2-2.75 cu ft?

i guess that is the xmas present =)

you dont even hear the bass outside my car when the windows are up ... the minute i crack them all hell breaks loose outside the vehicle lol

i was told there was a video online of an explorer with 4 18s ... i wanted to view this because i drive an aviator which is basically lincoln's version ... i wanted to reference how he made the wall as i plan on building a wall hopefully in mine ... i dont think he did a straight wall because there isnt enough height to stack 2 straight up ... if anyone has any information please let me know thanks

i am not a fan of the klmx wire ... it is very light and hollow ... it slips out of the terminals easy ... i like knus flex more than my kicker flex ... it has a higher strand count as well ... get the knu flex ull love it

around $500 a sub no more than that

I would recommend 1.75 - 2.5 (per woofer) net volume including speaker, bracing and port displacement. I would tune around the 33-38hz range. You could do a single chamber box and create a L-shaped slot port. alright thanks ... i am sorry i do not know if i am misinterpretting what you are saying ... do you mean 1.75-2.5 cu ft with the sub in or with the sub out ... i know i get all confused when displacement is used in a sentence lol