Lucky 76

would it be possible to adjust the idle air control on my 2003 lincoln aviator (ford 4.6l V8) to around 1100-1200 that way i always get a good idle output? also is this safe or is that way too high for a car to idle at?

i would look at the pioneer in dash double dins ... they are decent quality for your budget and have great expansions .... if you are really concerned about preout voltage just get a line driver

i tested the alt this morning ... it was getting up to 14.5 w a cold engine and then it started going to about 14.1 when warmed up ... on the highway and it seemed to be alright and it was keeping a steady voltage of 13.8 with the music blasting ... the only problem it seems to have still is at idle ... i am pretty sure it is not putting anything out at all as w the music off i am still getting 12.5 and then a sharp decline to the low 11 volt range with the music on loud ... i am going to have it tested today at advanced again and see what it is reading at idle and around 2200 rpm ... what do you think the problem is for the idling? is it the pulley? the pulley is almost a 1/4 of an inch smaller than my original pulley but that should only make the idle output more

the only problem is they only make a 200 amp for my suv =( .... are they usually underrated?

i got an o3 lincoln aviator ... just a hint i am part of the ssa team and u will be seeing my setup shortly ... as of now it is a sectret

i fund out what was wrong ... the factory wire needs to be connected to the fuse box still so i set up a distro block and now it works ... i have 1/0 to bat and factory to fuse panel ... is that ok? i looked at the voltage and when revved i only get 13.6 ... i am getting worse voltage drops than before esp at idle (drops to 11.5) ... with music off it drops to 12.5 ... what is going on here?

im going to take it down to advanced tomorrow just to make sure it isnt putting out any current at all

many ways ... alt connected to battery i measured from bat neg to pos to see that is was the same from alt to ground .... then i measure w alt to fuse panel (did not blow the fuse) and read the same as the bat again (like 11.4 now cuz battery is not getting charged) .... then i disconnected alt from all terminals and measured the alts pos to ground and it read 0

i am going to attempt to get my money back ... how are ohio generators in relation to his prices ... i paid 475 for mine

i took the factory wire out that went from the alt to the fuse box (not the wiring harness) is that alright ... i thought i was just supposed to take that out and run the alt wire directly to the battery

i just installed an excess amperage 300 amp alternator ... for some reason something is not working correctly ... i am only getting 12.5 volts and it drops a tad to 12.4 when i rev it up ... what is going on ... the stock alt was connected to the fuse panel but i ran the new wire to the battery and fuse pannel to the battery

the one i am borrowing is an OWON HDS1022M

thanks again ... i still dont see how he is hooking up the outputs tho ... is it positive inside negative shielding? how would you do this with you high level outputs

how can i check my rcas using the oscilloscope? can i just go inside pos shielding neg?

but how does your h/u clip if you are running off of rcas ... you are not using the amplifier's hi levels

you should upgrade your big 3 before you buy a second battery and see where you are at as far as voltage drops go ... then if needed look into a new alternator .... a second battery is only useful if your car is off

its not going to do anything for you without a decent charging system .... think about it, if your stock alternator cannot charge a single battery how is it going to charge multiple .... you should talk to nate at excess amperage ... my lincoln also has a tight fit and he made me a custom direct bolt on 300a that is about the same size and it was only like $500

if you are going off the fuse rating off the amps you will never be drawing that much and you do not be using the full 105 amps from your stock alternator to power your accessories ... you should be fine with just a single 250 amp alternator ... no need for a second battery as you do not play music with your car off ... just buy an optima yellow top as they are deep cycle batteries

have fun rewiring your entire car to bypass the factory amp =)

quick ? about the video ... meade says that his h/u clips at 60 ... y does his h/u clip? ... also why is he tunning his amps to 59? ... i thought you were supposed to set ur gains 3/4 of the way because some music is louder than others? .... he says he can play it at 59 without it ever clipping is this true or will some music cause the amp to clip?

my pops is vp of sales for fluke so i get all the free multimeters i want =) ... i have about 20 at my house lol

thanks! that is exactly what i was looking for

i recently got an internship and in our engineering lab where i work we have many oscopes. i was wondering how i would be able to use the oscope to set the gains on my amplifier