latorgator

I think the best for tuning it would be 32 hrtz and not sure wat would be best for sub direction but i was told sub up port back would be best his geo is a hatchback

Hey guys I was hopeing to get help on designing a box for my little brothers geo metro... He is over seas in the army and should be back in a few weeks so i decided i wanted to surprise him.. All I know is he doesnt want a wall built in the car (he likes his back window), So the max dimensions i have are 35" wide x 36" long x 20" tall. I have a mtx 1501d amp to push the beast so far and also dual alternators and 2 sp1000 stinger batteries. Any help would be very appeciated thank you.. also i could even try to send some money if someone did design it but no guarantees on that we all know how tight money is... Thanks Gator

me too me too seriously

True I guess if I pop it then I can make sure to recone it with the copper

so does anyone know if there is anyway I could find out if mine is copper

It says on fi website in the technical section that you can only due a sealed box if you have the copper coil option. I didnt think it would matter but than I read this so I wasnt sure Off there website: SSD 18 – You must have the copper coil option in order to run the SSD18 sealed. You are looking at 5-7 cuft sealed for a proper response. The Ported box we recommend using 6-10 cubic feet @ 33Hz (this is optimal in our eyes and to our ears, you can tune 31-35hz fine if you so please)

I bought a used 18" ssd from a buddy.. I sorta wanted to due a sealed box with it but I was told you need the copper coil option to be able to due a sealed box.. I just didnt know if there was any way to tell. Any help appreciated alot

I noticed I should of put this on fi forum sorry

My buddy is trying to put a 18" fi ssd fully loaded in the back of his eagle summit van.. He has about 1200 watt rms of power to run the sub.. There is two different set of max dimensions we can use ( it all depends on how tall the box will actually be. The first set is a tall narrow box and our max dimensions are 27 1/4 tall X 39 wide X 15 Deep. And the other set is 20 1/2 deep X 39 wide X 21 tall. Any help would be wonderful... Would really like start build on box as soon as we can.. Also I would like it ported wit a tune right around 32 hz. And I not sure wat would sound best wit the speaker direction and port direction so any advice is wonderful.

Any Help from anyone :)

My buddy is trying to put a 18" fi ssd fully loaded in the back of his eagle summit van.. He has about 1200 watt rms of power to run the sub.. There is two different set of max dimensions we can use ( it all depends on how tall the box will actually be. The first set is a tall narrow box and our max dimensions are 27 1/4 tall X 39 wide X 15 Deep. And the other set is 20 1/2 deep X 39 wide X 21 tall. Any help would be wonderful... Would really like start build on box as soon as we can.. Also I would like it ported wit a tune right around 32 hz. And I not sure wat would sound best wit the speaker direction and port direction so any advice is wonderful.

actually a lil of both cuz he didnt tell me until i saw it

its about a 3/8" slit. And my camera is broke but i'll try and get a new one and get pics

The other nite we were changin the box my fi's are in and the drill slipped and went through the rubber on the subwoofer.. He said if we put rtv silicone on the inside and outside of the cut it would be ok but Im not sure any help would be good

773

My buddy has 2 XT-4000D amps made by US Amps, I was wondering if 1 of them would work good for a dual 2 ohm 15" Fi Btl Subwoofer

I just got 2 more 15 fi btl to put in a 91 blazer. The box I am going to build will be 38" wide 31" deep and 20" tall. I want both subs facing straight up with the port also straight up. I was wondering how big I should make my port. I am looking to get around the 32 hz mark. Also I will be bracing with 1 1/4 inch wood dowels and will be using 3/4 inch mdf.

The amp itself made a big pop I had trunk open wen It happened, Then it had smoke billowing out of the fan holes.

I checked the battery terminal to make sure and they are hooked up the right way and they are I checked volts and it shows 14.5 wen car is runnin, I didnt see anything ground any where I about to pull it all..

I just hooked up a rf t40001bd amp in my car, the amp is ran by 3 stinger sp1000 batteries and a 250 amp alt. I played it for a good 40 minutes I than went out to listen to it again and pop the amp smoked and the fuse discolored (but never popped... not sure wat else Im scared to put another amp in... Any help would be appreciated

well i just want something that can handle like 5000 watts or 10,000 watts of power just woundering Do you have an amp or amps that are actually doing that level of power, and do you have an electrical system to back them up? It is pointless to have something of that nature in a daily driving car. I have 8000+ watts for subwoofers and 2000 watts for highs in my cadillac, but with that I needed 2 alt, 7 stinger batteries, 2 runs of 0 gauge, new rear shocks... I love it but truthfully I wouldn't go through all of it again. Its alot of work and headaches (not even counting the whole bank account thing). just my 2 cents

Ill have to give it some good trial and error and se what works best

I love the design I have, I broke my tailbone last night (fell skateboarding), So I just waitin to get better to start build. What due you think the best tuning for daily would be shizzon

whats wrong with this design

Due you think this combo would be descent loud and good sq for wat my buddy is using it for.. SSA Icon 12D2 + Sundown SAZ-1000D or due you think 2- 10' fi q would be better