///M5

Nothing you can do now, but let it work its way out. Next time you do this, do NOT wash up with hot water. It opens your pores and allows the fibers to embed themselves deeper in your skin. Or use hot wax, that will pull most shit out of your skin. Thanks for this; AWESOME info! Just remember you can not wait a couple days to do this. It must be done fairly quick, I keep hot wax at work for this, metal splinters suck! What sort of wax? Does the hair come too? I'm a fucking monkey.

I don't have dado's....but have a router installed on my table saw so that is no problem. What I didn't follow was it sounded like a double rabbet was being recommended.

I actually think it will be more fun. It may be heavier, but its more powerful, more comfortable, and far quiter without having to spend money on deadening which is pointless in a Mustang which I would try to make louder.

And Ryan, get the damn Mark for sure. As a daily driver it is a much better car. Not as fun, but still fun and WAY more comfy.

And Jon, tuning that low + wanting output means MORE cone area than an 8. I'd either tune low or go sealed for what you want.

There's a little confusion in this thread. With absolutely NO cabin gain in a house you need to port lower than in a car. You are used to a 2nd order gain in the low frequencies in your cars. Add to that the need for reproducing sound effects and it isn't unusual to tune REALLY low at home. The box that I've not gotten around to building for my living room which is connected to a PC I am tuning to 12Hz. It won't have any huge peak like a box tuned higher, but that defeats the purpose and it will extend low even without cabin gain.

Getting 37 sheets of sheetrock into my basement SUCKED

Dropped $600 at Menards and $650 at Home Depot today

but they are round and self leveling on round isn't so great We'll see what I end up with though, I have some time. Need some billet pipe clamps to hang them with too.

I also have some Epoxy from my sink build...

The ply is leftover from some picture frames I made btw.

Yes, shouldn't I?

I figured the tactile response was missing... So, can you fit an 8 or not? Where can we put your tweeters? How much install effort and eq'ing are you willing to do? Oh, btw, the fixed 24dB slopes is a deal breaker for me. There are plenty of better options in processors though. First let's nail down drivers so that we can be sure you get what you need.

ROFL

What ever happened to your kiss approach. Other than one little joint this is KISS. IF I can get away without any glass it's an afternoon project, besides the paint....but considering the location it is getting painted.

I never said I was using MDF, others assumed that. Already have baltic b ply

Counting on clearance for excursion, the pole vent, and room for the woofer to breath?

With drivers and boat color. Err, not really drivers but they are actual size and to scale

Okay Mr. Functional and simple. Probably a good idea for sealing purposes anyways, but it's more work to clean up before paint. Somewhat afraid I'll do a good job of splitting them to...

Channels? Man my brain must be off. Just carried 37 sheets of sheet rock down the stairs so I know why that might be the case...

Probably between a 1/16" and 1/32" of an inch. I glue in a baffle then bolt a square baffle to the baffle and run it through the table saw. *would That sounds more complicated than ripping the holes for the horn box. Basically I had planned to do what I said above and build a box for the horns with a missing wall. Ultra easy to get it to the first tube, second is the tought one. And I didn't understand the "second set of grooves" Basically asking to add another layer to the horn box and use that on the 10" after the 8"?

Hmmm, W18 + FF85k in the Jeep ? Truthfully you'd be better off with the ER's or CA's. The extra clarity in the lower midrange of the Excel isn't really the right thing to compromise in a car. CA's would have been my second option. I wonder if they are an improvement over the Mach 5 MLI's. I guess I should try mine one day since I think they use the same mounting hole... Huge improvement in every aspect. Would feel sort of like a wasting the potential for midrange since my midbass is LP'ed at 200Hz. Gah, this has me thinking now about a pair of Extremis 6.8. I don't want to step up to an SLS8 since it's way too much weight for the doors. How much do you want for the CA18's ? Won't shipping be your bitch? If you are only going to 200Hz either the Extremis or Ex Anarchy would be a better choice.

Psychoacoustics are a bitch, the "sound" experience is solely dependent on the recordings being used. What part of metal is most important to you or most lacking with what you currently have? What do you want the system to do better? Tons of ways to skin any cat, but doing it the way that best suits your needs would be my goal.

The easiest is to probably replace the center PVC with just a box. Baffle the front so it's round and not have it be visible deeper in. Was hoping for something that was less work. That box if it stayed together only means cutting two tubes, ripping them in two spots and making about 6 baffles for each side.

And of course any idea on bonding pvc to wood? rofl. This is probably a big fail