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///M5

SSA Tech Team
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Everything posted by ///M5

  1. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Just store a yeti cooler in it. I absolutely hate those. Once you have a boat with a real built in that is all you will want, I was spoiled by the Ranger.
  2. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    don't make me pull out my purple helmeted love warrior
  3. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Amusingly that stands for not only the football team but the company who makes the grill I have. Their other stuff is uber expensive and crap, this however is a beast.
  4. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    I thought you had a Primo? It's a Viking, but I figure saying Egg is more clear to most.
  5. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Aidan loved it. Good food makes people happy including kids. Had a ham on the egg for 7 hours, yummy.
  6. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    didn't know the wolves were even playing, lol. I don't usually have time for TV and at 67-53 I think I'll leave it off .
  7. Need to take a step back. You need midbass to lower midrange, not sub bass. AND you need it up front. The real question is what can you fit up there and what will it take to make your chest pop. For the style of music and budget you like I personally would recommend an active setup with some pro audio mids up front. Assuming you can sandwich an 8 or 10 up there. The rest gets tricky, but metal is completely different than what most people ask for and I think your focus is being misdirected by reading a lot of threads by bassheads. As for the rules comment, SQL isn't a term that is used on this forum. It means nothing and is just stupid. No offense to you. Think of it this way. SPL is about making a box as loud as possible which in turn means having the peakiest frequency response as possible, SQ is making a box have the flattest frequency response as possible. SQL would then be a compromise of two polar opposites. Makes no sense. Would sound like shit with metal too. Definitely buy SDS. Bang for the buck and helpful response from the owner are WAY beyond all other brands. Some other issues with your plans. An epicenter is a useless joke, the SMD is even worse, it is actually a shame those asshats sell it as it is a complete waste of money that does NOTHING positive. Truthfully almost any sub will do, but I'd definitely find one that is suited for a sealed enclosure and roll that way. You DON'T want an IDQ, way overpriced for a mediocre driver. I like your goals. I like the fact you've done a bunch of reading, but now I am going to challenge you to think about the reading you've done and hopefully allow you to realize that it's been biased by bassheads. If you are truly a metal head you have a complete different set of needs to fill and REALLY need to focus on the front stage. The rest is easy
  8. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    I love and hate the internet. I found the opposite, but of course when comparing even the aging values moisture was not included. In a boat that'll be a problem. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-value_%28insulation%29 Of course this shows that Polyurethane is always better than styrene. And I know myself well enough, I will not have the boat more than 5 years. Lol. Had thought about just building a frame in it out of wood, paint then epoxy and fill under the frame with poly expanded foam
  9. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Is that of the 2" foam board variety? I hope so, because half and even one inch foam coolers doesn't keep stuff cold for very long in my experience I can't find thicker than 1", but figured 2 layers would help. Going to foil it as well.
  10. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Okay I'm understanding it better now. Okay how about: lay flat pieces of insulation on sides, and bottom. Then make a wood shell, half inch shorter or something on sides, that drops in. Before gluing/screwing the wood panels together for the shell, cover them in some resin. Then drop that in, and fill any voids between the shell and insulation with expanding foam. Sand down the excess foam that comes over the top, then use a little mat and resin over the top to make it sealed and flush. Sorta sounds like what you were already thinking? Sorta what I was thinking. The hole is probably 3" smaller in both dimensions so the shell will have to be assembled in the cooler and coated. Flush may not be a big deal though as it'll be hidden under a recess.
  11. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    I can sand some, but sanding the inside of a box isn't so much fun nor do I want to do it much. I have no pictures, but imagine a plastic rectangular tub made from 1/4" plastic and you've got it. Tucked underneath some fiberglass supports so you can't see the edges and since the supports and opening is smaller than the tub it can't come out.
  12. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Cooler in my Malibu won't keep ice frozen when its below freezing. Absolutely NO insulation. That being said, I'd like to address it. Regrettably I cannot remove it due to the design of the boat so I "get" to bulid the cooler in situ. Plan is to use some Polyiso sheeting from Home Depot and cover in Fiberglass or Epoxy resin. So being I can't really paint it, won't be sanding it, and cosmetically I'd like it to look reasonable does anyone have any great ideas? Ideas so far: -Pre-cut the foam, paint black. Hope that resin alone is enough strength -Foam, Resin, Matt, Resin, Bedliner/paint, Resin (I really don't want to try and spray it in the boat as I know myself ) -Build a 2 piece plywood covering for the foam. Would have to resin the bottom again once installed since it would need to go in in 2 pieces, but this could be painted black and sealed before installation. All of them suck. Best would be to have some gelcoat topcoat that I could just spread on it when I'm done that self levels and still sticks to the sides. ROFL.
  13. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    what buffet? You pick a generic chinese name and in Hopkins and you got it. Can't remember, won't go back. Just south of Hopkins on 11ave. TERRIBLe
  14. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Wow, at a really shitty chinese buffet with great reviews
  15. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    As long as it has a decent beam width you'll be fine. Bonus points if you get one with a flat lip on the bow, like the Boston Whaler Montauks. My dad loves fishing off the bow of ours. Err, no, more like this but not such an ugly color
  16. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Won't happen next year. Nothing to upgrade to. I may do some serious customizing though which is sort of like getting a new one.
  17. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Hard to fish with little ones. My next door neighbor has a Ranger as well though, my buddy an aluminum boat, but I feel nekkid.
  18. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Yikes, some power names in there
  19. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    nein
  20. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Indeed. Not sure right now I'd call it funny.
  21. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Thinking of buying a tiller boat. Closest to the front platform of the bass boat and BAM deep and safe for kids. Something I am sure I will hate about it.
  22. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Need a house on the lake first.
  23. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Now it's like car stereo's. What the fuck am I going to compromise and how to buy another and make it work for both fishing and children. Not so trivial.
  24. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    And yet, absolutely PERFECT for fishing.
  25. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Was absolutely TERRIBLE for children though. Seriously god awful.

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