///M5

I've had to get clearance a few times, they ask me funny questions.

Not so sure I like background checks

You can localize WELL below 250Hz. The real question is if you are okay with your midbass being from the rear why don't you just run your sub higher in frequency?

Really why?

Hmm, interesting. We share some things...

EBC Yellowstuff was my first idea, however, seeing that I will more than likely need new rotors I thought about going up in size. Bigger rotors are 7.5 lbs extra per wheel. Probably an extra 2-3.5 lbs for bigger calipers and it adds up to 10 lbs extra unsprung weight per wheel. Seems like EBC Yellow is only $25 more than the Greens in the UK. I'll be going there in April and I can get them in my luggage, so no shipping cost. But it's still up for discussion if the slightly smaller surface 2-piston caliper + bigger rotor = better performance than the stock single piston and rotor. Keep in mind again that I'm not buying a kit, I'm making a kit, so cost will be smaller for sure, just a lot of extra work. Are you overheating your brakes now? Do they fade a lot in use? What is your goal with going bigger? I'm never opposed to larger brakes, but I think Ryan nailed it here a more aggressive pad might be all that you need. The pads helped, the rotors not so much...unless bling is a help.

Double sheet is of no benefit. The only thing that matters is $/lb. The CCF does nothing to block sound as it is super light (no mass, no sound blocking) but it can help by stopping two surfaces from rubbing and of course helping to isolate the MLV from the surface it is connected to. Same to address your "adhesive" question. You do not want to couple the MLV to the door as that defeats some of its purpose. Instead you want to "hang" it so that it can be isolated as much as possible but still be a barrier.

Doh, nice job on waxing off 30M bones

Do the doors just like you did the floor. As much of the firewall as possible as well. I personally would buy dampener and vinyl from SDS. I'd highly suggest following Don's install advice as well. *as an aside, I'd avoid the Stinger stuff for sure

Only thing they are good for is adding a ton of light in a shop. Specific task lighting should be used to keep your eyes sane though.

If they are flourescent they should NEVER be on.

Wow, one full year for Payton. Nutso. Bet Brees is super happy about that franchise tag now.

Reminder

I used to drink a good 3L a day, sometimes up to 5L. Exactly why I quit altogether and now only drink carbonated water.

Yummy and SHIT, I never sent you gasket material. Been traveling so much I forgot. Having a showing on the house didn't help. Coming eventually.

I tried those shoes too, but my toes were to long for them. We used to run barefoot all the time, it made our feet feel less when licking through wood and blocks. It has been years since I have done any of that. I am either barefoot ar in my birks! Whenever I can be, I'm with you.

The EXACT same things that need to be taken into account with a standard ported box. If you don't know what those are then a bandpass is not something you should attempt. No such thing as Bandpass 101, so if you need more info you are going to have to try harder yourself.

When I was young that was commonplace for me, now my feet are wimpy

Holy fail thread. None of the above. Can't help until you fix your goals. So far I understand you have a budget and what's been offered for that budget is FAR better in every respect than what you are looking at, but can't be sure what you need from what you've told us.

You can't fit a T-line in your car, lol. And if you have built what you think is one, I'd bet big time it isn't a t-line and is not as efficient as a standard ported enclosure.

Then use an SSF or build a 6th order, but design it for the sub in question and the task at hand not some generic ratio.

Yikes, I was on a snowmobile on the lake less than 2 weeks ago and its open as of sometime last night.

All I need is for the truck to be quiet ... No need to waste money at this time ... But it is on the list ... Then you needed MLV and not deadener. You added something to change the resonance of panels, not a noise barrier. Exactly why I stated the question. What ever dude ... I worked on this thing all weekend, barely got it back together (except for the amps), Worked all night last night, got class all day today ... got to get my amp in the mail (hopefully today), and the other one gets built in time ... have all this shit back together and playing by wednesday so I can drive it 10 hours to Daytona Beach ... I'm doing the best I can with what little money I have ... But I promised to be at Spring Break Nationals, So you can bet your ass I'm gonna be there with this truck ... Like I said ... Its on the list ... and yes, my truck is ALOT quieter since I installed the deadner on the floor ... Since you won't trust me, read Don's website and hopefully it'll be clear. It'll make you feel like you could have used the "little money" more effectively. Good luck getting all the shit back together by Wednesday and the drive!

I wouldn't even let her suck me off

Mine is connected to the Natural Gas...but of course, if it were only a propane tank I could burn through one in something like 5 hours. lol How do you like the natural gas in comparison to propane? I have cooked (some) and eaten food cooked off both, but have never done a fair comparison. J Neither flavor the food. Propane is under high pressure though so in general its easier to get hotter. A real grill is the key either way.