///M5

Record a song?

I try not to.... It's a scary place out there. Did you call him a hobo? You read outside the hop? so skeered that you hid your reply

SOunds nice. Enjoy. Time for my yearly waterskiing adventure. Feeling good enough to try on the feets. We'll see though as falling at 40+ hurts

I only took a minor bump in mileage on the SHO with this s/c. Definitely was worse, just not that much but it was fun! Oh, Ford ftw!

There is a reason you can't and no I've never heard of it either.

Crap, gotta hop in the car and drive 4 hours. Going to the bro's lake cabin for the weekend. Okay, not his but his wifes families.

Did you call him a hobo? You read outside the hop?

It all depends on the tune and the components, but it will still take more fuel than a NA engine. In my case though the propping/gearing changes significantly as well. Right now my boat has a power prop on it. Takes the 0-30mph from 7.5sec to around 4sec, but takes the top end from 44mph to around 39mph. What I want is to keep the bottom end grunt and regain some topend while reducing the rpm's at cruise where the hull is efficient.

II used to in the old house, my mouse didn't like it. Needed a mouse pad which sucked because it defeats the purpose. Fingerprint+ are annoying on it too.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . . That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say. Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption. I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally. I am just reverting back to my blower and turbo car experience. You always use more fuel with the cylinders pressurized. You have to. I know it may not be a concern to you, and might be the easy way with the blower, but I think for reliability's sake and savings, keeping it atmospheric will be best. You're going to be dealing with a cooler/denser air charge as well, so that will only help. If running at 24mph you use the supercharger and the prop to make it so that you turn 3500rpm with the s/c and 4500rpm with the n/a with the only changes being the tune and the boost wouldn't you expect the s/c application to use less gas? 24 isn't super arbitrary as it is the sweet spot for fuel economy on my hull

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . . That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say. Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption. I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally.

Then you are golden

And no way, no how is the Stinger fast enough to see transients. Piece of useless shit IMO. Of course when you are pushing the limits like you are something similar is needed for setup and then a piece of shit is okay.

Better question is what is an acceptable lower voltage What drop do you have and what are you using to measure it? (curious on the frequency response of the device and how fast it changes/drops) i shouldn't post at 4 am. your right, that is what i ment to ask. monitoring the voltage with a stinger voltmeter. however, i just assumed it's response is fast enough for an accurate reading . the voltage drop im getting varies by song, etc. this car's (04 sentra) idle must be pretty terrible, for example the AC powering ON drops the voltage to about 12.8v (according to the voltmeter). turning the head lights on causes a similar drop.. As long as you are within the safe operating specification of your amplifier and it doesn't affect the output such that it clips and causes you to exceed the average power the drivers can take you are fine. The second is pretty unlikely with the rail sliding down with the supply, but staying in the operation levels of the amp is necessary.

Time to do some serious data reduction. Classic case of carefully define what you will do with what data and then get ride of the rest.

Indeed

Put the whole budget now into the fronts and a subs later.

And the difference I guess I am wondering about isn't hardware as that part I've found a solution for but in the map itself.

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense. Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop. Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

No interest in ANY social networking site that is profession related.

I've been in the same league since 1988. We used to have to add up our scores manually from a newspaper. And no, there weren't any fantasy football magazines then.

Could you elaborate as to why, exactly? Also, who is that girl in your sig? I always see it but I've never thought to ask.. Yes the mids can't play high enough and the tweets not low enough and it isn't even close. Amusingly the gap in between is where 90% of all music is so you just chose a system that really can't play music. If you don't know what active is you CANNOT use the drivers above, nor can you just pick drivers. You MUST pick a set that includes a tweeter, a mid, and a crossover. Anything else and it is going to sound like complete shit.

I think you should spend less time brainstorming about how to spend money/time on stereo gear and instead spend more time brainstorming about what else you could do to improve that child's life that is always in your pictures. It would be better for everyone.

Not the Blose acousticmess please! That might be worse than what you specified. The real question I have is if this is in studio is he going to use the speakers for mixing? If so, you REALLY need studio monitors and to have them placed appropriately. Personally I use headphones to mix which would mean he could do something else. The other problem he has is the in wall. That requires a different crossover with different baffle step compensation and there is NOTHING on the market (with small exceptions) that are meant to be used that way. A custom crossover with engineering will eat his whole budget as well. Considering I'd recommend a Craigslist special. Get something used that is worth what he pays for it. Use them for a while to determine what could be "better" and then sell them and build something appropriate. It solves the near term need and provides a long term solution without costing extra money.

What'd you get? And if you say Blendtec I'd disagree.