///M5

Fucking WIN! Bag the head You haz problems She's got a butt face. If you took away some of her fake boobs then even in that outfit she doesn't deserve looks. Those are what make her even acceptable to look at, otherwise I find her pretty gross.

The Donkey Barack Obama was touring the countryside in his chauffeur-driven limo. Suddenly, a donkey jumps out onto the road, they hit it full on and the car comes to a stop. Obama says to the chauffeur: 'You get out and check, you were driving.' The chauffeur gets out, checks and reports that the animal is dead. 'You were driving; go and tell the farmer,' says Obama. Hours later, the chauffeur returns totally plastered, hair ruffled with a big grin on his face. 'My god, what happened to you?' asks Obama. The chauffeur replies: 'When I got there, the farmer opened his best bottle of whiskey, the wife gave me a slap-up meal and the daughter made love to me.' 'What on earth did you say to them?' asks Obama. 'I knocked on the door, and when it was answered, I said to them, 'I'm Barack Obama's chauffeur and I've just killed the jackass.'

Fucking WIN! Bag the head

That was not appealing as a treat to read during breakfast J

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help! tried to cut some of that post down.. so im a idiot. mounting depth on 6.5 sls is 3.30" so they will fit in the doors. im not going with the kicks because they would need some work to even get sealed up well and they may vent outside but they also vent up behind the dash. anyways, i think i will go with the sls in the doors, founteks in the a piller.. question on processing. im trying to spend about 200 on the head unit. alpine cda 9855 is at the top of the list, i also know the 9853 is an option but after showing my brother them, he liked the screen more on the 9855. the price difference is not much of a difference anyways. so far i missed out on two 9855's on ebay. there is another coming up in a little over 1 day that i will try for. i was also considering some other options. im wondering on what you think of a alpine cda 105 and imprint combo? lowest price on ebay is about $235 (buy it now items). however, for about 170 you can get a 9853 with, what appears to be, the same functionality. (guess i answered my own question) pioneer prs 880 and 800 seem to be going for a little more then what i would like to spend. i think i'll try a wtb thread as well. Make sure you check the tweeter channel high-pass in case you want to use full-ranges or even a passively crossed mid / tweeter combo on that channel. thanks for pointing that out, i believe most alpine decks are stuck with a 1000hz highpass on the tweeter channel. so i went with an amp to handle the highpass on the full rangers (us acoustics usx 2080 from audioclinic). Can you use the t/a and eq without the crossover being active on the tweet? If not....ugh.

This was the basis for this discussion and the statement is the most important one here. Never did I state not to use a gauge, but it is no more important than other gauges. If you "have" to watch a gauge it means you are expecting a failure. I personally would make sure the design is such that you don't expect one and is a much better idea than monitoring it to make sure. As for the protecting the thousands you spend on a system, there are other more expensive repairs that can happen as well. Does everyone monitor their transmission temp, engine oil pressure, gas/air mixture and so on? Any one of those systems failing is surely going to create more expense than an undervoltage on an amplifier. So which do you add first? If you answer any other way than the one you expect to most likely fail your answer is idiotic. If you design your system such that you create the voltage scenario as the one most likely to fail, I'd change your design before adding a meter which was my original point. So yeah, meh on blindly recommending a meter. Install/design the system correctly instead.

Yummy!!

Haven't heard that term in YEARS

Electric fuel pump? If so, connections good and solid?

If this was a real amplifier then for sure. Real question though is are you happy with how it is now? If so, then don't bother.

Meh. I'd rather have an oil pressure gauge and a few other gauges first. And just like oil pressure "should" always be in range when your car is setup right, your voltage should be as well when you build a system otherwise you should fix that problem. Well I dunno, maybe everyone can't afford to do everything perfect the first time? He has a plan. What's so wrong about having a voltage meter? I mean if we're thinking like that then you know your engine is in pretty good shape right? Well then just go ahead and disconnect all of your gauges then because you know it's done right correct? So just like you said you shouldn't have to monitor it right? There's nothing at all wrong with watching your voltage. Every proffesional setup has a meter no matter what they have invested because it's a good idea, plain and simple. In the end he's going to get his setup done correctly and then he can sit back and watch his voltage stay nice and steady with a smile. I never said not to measure it, but was helping the OP save money on the build as the value of mounting one permanently I see as not necessary. By your argument then the other gauges should also be added and in that regard first as the cost to replace the other items is more than the parts that low voltage will cause. Using a gauge as an excuse to turn the levels up to where the gauge is necessary to monitor it is asinine. As I stated before, measure it and set the gains right for the electrical that you have. If there is an issue, don't push the limit.

Meh. I'd rather have an oil pressure gauge and a few other gauges first. And just like oil pressure "should" always be in range when your car is setup right, your voltage should be as well when you build a system otherwise you should fix that problem.

Makes me sick. Of course they have a four stroke or two in the works that will help that...

Maximum Length Sequence ftw

....I also worked for a drycleaner..... Although I did it for free with a friend and we mainly just made deliveries. My grandpa started one in 1934, so free I understand

Shit, KG's contract is what started the whole re-doing of the whole pay structure of the NBA and that was in MN.

Boston had deeper pockets too. They were able to pay him and other stars. The T-wolves were only able to pay him. Wasn't about able to, but willing to. Glenn Taylor easily could have stepped up.

If you truly have to "monitor" your voltage I'd suggest turning your gains down or upgrading your alt. Being in a situation where monitoring is required isn't acceptable.

Perhaps simplifying this would help. If your alternator provides all the current necessary at all times for your system then the battery load "won't" matter. Quotes for two reasons, one starting drain needs to be recharged and there is some "conditioning" charging required. Both I wouldn't consider an issue or is there any difference really between one or two in that case. If of course the opposite is true and your alt can't keep up then indeed since you are discharging two batteries, the second will be an extra load for sure. Considering you feel you need a second this is most likely to be the case....otherwise of course I'd question why you are adding a second battery anyways.

Ding, ding, ding. Winner.

Sort of expected when a pro leaves a team, in particular when he is the franchise. Of course, the team should build around him. KG did the same to us, but I don't blame him.

That is rediculous, my bladder would explode. That is rediculous, my bladder would explode.I won a bet in college pissing into an apple juice jug. Bet was I couldn't fill it. You are a freak! Here's some interesting info. The "average" human bladder comfortably holds 14-18 ounces before you start to feel discomfort. Once it gets about 50% full the nerves will send the sensation to urinate to the brain. It can hold almost double it's comfort capacity before it will involuntarily empty itself, so it won't actually burst. Your kidneys are constantly excreting urine and the muscles in your ureters go through a cycle every 10-15 seconds pushing more urine down into the bladder. Of course this is all in a perfectly healthy individual. Given Sean's size he probably has an over-sized bladder. Extremely so. Put it in perspective, on that day I lost 8lbs by taking a piss, lol.

That is rediculous, my bladder would explode. I won a bet in college pissing into an apple juice jug. Bet was I couldn't fill it.

You need structure, not fill. What I did when I built a box with a radial arm saw that I adjusted with a non-square framing square. Of course that was circa 1988, lol.

When I worked at the drycleaners I'd have 3 46oz'ers before lunch. At least one with and probably one or two in the afternoon. Ultra steamy and greater than 110F makes you thirsty.