///M5

Is Electrolux fancy?

Ugh, I am not a fan of canned interview questions. Context is way more important.

Que?

I am dying to find a touring bike frame in my size, but it is fucking hard. Rivendell makes them, but they are more expensive than a custom so that doesn't work. There are some seriously crappy old school Schwinn's that fit right, but I don't want one. More than willing to spend the dough on a custom, but would like to ride a geometry that is at least similiar for a while so I know where to make the best compromises. The bike I should have bought was the 85 Raleigh Team USA in 68cm that sold here last year. They wanted $300 for it though and it isn't worth more thna $180, so I passed. Lesson learned, there just aren't that many. Nice Raleigh Super Course in a 65cm on CL right now I might go pedal tomorrow, but it too I think is probably too small and 3cm may not sound like a lot but it might just defeat my purpose.

And again, bikes for different purposes all have different fits. Tri-bikes, race bikes, downhill, mountain, touring and so on. Sort of like wearing a hiking boot running or a water sock hiking. You want to pick something that is most appropriate for your normal needs. Guess what style is the most comfortable? That's right touring. I would always recommend that people fit their bikes like a touring bike if it is for normal riding, doesn't mean you have to buy something beefy enough to carry an extra hundred pounds on the rear and front wheels in the form of bags, but the fit is right.

Those 27" wheels look dinky though, don't they? It's a bit silly looking. For race day then why do they ride such smaller bikes? Just aerodynamics and weight savings? Weight savings is a joke. Easiest way to have less weight on your bike is to eat less. Rotational weight there is some logic in, but that is why they race on different rims than they train on. And NO you don't want race rims on your daily bike unless you are made of money. Training rims are WAY more robust.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways. youre the one thats misleading, youve got a rubber stamp that assumes everyone desires the same thing. Though you are right 95% of the time, all you do is fuck it up for the other 5%. But this 5% gives a big middle finger to you and your bullshit. I definitely don't assume everyone desires the same thing and I also know that 99.9% of the people on here don't want what I do, but what I do is try to help people with what they want and not what I do. In your case you just do shit thinking you know something but are way off on a few critical details. There is a reason you are the laughing stock of the whole car audio internet.

Those 27" wheels look dinky though, don't they?

And that is a single speed track bike with an aggressive "race" stance

And blame the wannabe racer looking fools for your bike size. > 80% of the shops would fit you like that because they all look at what Lance rides on race day and think that is a good fit. His training bike is WAY different than his race bike and well, you aren't fucking Lance. Good example of a tall ass guy on a bike that doesn't look too small. Note his position on the drops and the fact that the top of his bars are almost nearly at his seat height. You can attain this fit with newer frames as well, but the top tube will typically be lower again thanks to Lance and crew. http://maddaps.wordpress.com/2009/02/03/bill-walton-the-worlds-tallest-cyclist/

Go in armed with a ton of questions. Sales people in general sucks which is lame because it makes those of us who actually do our job still look bad to everyone else since the average one blows.

Interesting, it isn't all that high but again it may be a front back problem as much as height. All things change others. Actually in your case you'll probably have to ride on the hoods since your frame is too small, normally you should size a bike to ride in the drops. The angle of your back, but again that would be less severe if your handlebars and seat were closer to being at the same height.

Hopefully not as a pretext

And a little paint will go a LONG way. Obviously you recognize that faster than I, but just sayin'.

Awesome!! Nice work

9dB? Why'd you even post that. Ugh.

Surprised they don't charge you more as that is normally their prerogative.

A good starting point is having your bars at the same height as your seat....but that doesn't mean you can lower your seat. Then the more you ride the more you can lower them.

You are going to have to be like me and ride the hoods probably, but I am curious to see how bad it is on the drops.

Your frame is one or two sizes too small. You should shoot your LBS. Your seat is still too low and by an inch or two. Maybe more. Raise it until your knees lock and then lower it until you feel them relax. If you are short of knee flexibility you may have to do that in steps. You should ride in your drops as much as possible, set your bike up there, and take pictures there. Your bars actually probably need to come up. Take another pic with your pedals level. You look scooched forward to me, but that might be due to the small frame. Your LBS may have fit your top tube as it looks not terrible, but perhaps Trek geometry isn't for your body.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

Here you go MK. http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

2100 / 2400 you WON'T hear a difference. That could influence your other decisions...

Optics are crap on all pocket phones, can't get around them either. Sucks that technology can't be leapfrogged.

And the bars lower I did rotate them forward. The only way I could make mine lower would be to turn the handle bar stem upside down. Then I would be reallll low Is your back at more or less than 45 degrees? Will take a pic/ video to check According to the link I just posted I need a longer reach as I am always moving back on my seet (I think that my frame is a size too small). Going to see how much of this fitting I can do by myself Don't assume it is the reach, could easily be that your seat is just too far forward. First cleats, then approximate seat height, then position of seat, then seat angle, then height and then reposition. All factors affect all positions.