///M5

Plucking seems the less painful method out of the two. Ha, I wasn't serious, just stating the usefulness of it. Plucking indeed.

off for a 100+mi rip. Going to drive up to the inlaws farm and go West from there as they have snow. Then a huge ham dinner. Yah baby.

I wouldn't. No way they sound good. Kevlar or glass cones which have nasty breakups "gold" plated phase plug powder coated basket Full swivel tweeter mount Jspec circuit crossovers - lol Space epoxy What do all those things have in common? They are marketing fluff that add cost to the set and have dubious benefits, in fact in a cheap speaker system they are all negatives and not positives. Those crossovers are junk for a cone that is going to be nasty. If you don't like any clarity go for it. One other major piece of marketing BS-- 92dB sensitivity, no way, no how, just a big flat out lie. :( And to make matters worse not unlike the AQ crap they won't post any parameters either.

You guys aren't old enough. That looks like a method to deal with fucking nose hair.

That blows

The large is bigger, One of the reasons Germany is sweet. You buy exact amounts of whatever. .5L beers are 0.5000L

Again, post your space first BEFORE any other questions. Without knowing there is NO answer. Install is everything.

Imagine that....they are from AQ, I wouldn't expect any different.

Crap, sorry MK.

<--jealous.

Do you have noise where it is mounted now? If not, then the pro's are only "less clutter"

Welcome

yeah i have enough room lol i have a 10 inch box behind my seat lol with room to spare and those 12s are only 6/4 deep Depth for the drivers is NOT what is required for room. To answer your question you first should post the maximum size box you can fit. And 6.5" deep for a driver + pole vent clearance 1" + MDF front and back 1.5" + excursion clearance 3" = 12" depth, but again that is unimportant as volume/cubic feet determine what you can run. For instance, keeping everything else equal an 8" sub in an optimal box will be louder than the same series of sub in a 12" size in a box that is too small. Install is EVERYTHING and that means building a box that is specific to your drivers. Box first, ALWAYS.

Not yet, getting there though

I am curious however to know what the penalty is because a few times a year I end up being stuck in a trail in a rush that says no studs and have taken it anyways. Always been good snow conditions though and I ride the side as much as possible but nonetheless feel like a jack ass.

Put a cobra on the F6 this year to replace the 1" stock track. Works really well on the trail. You running studs as well or just the track? If no, did you get the rain and if so how do you like how it turns compared to the stocker? Non-studded because the main trail i ride doesn't allow studs We didn't get the rain here so the snow is still ok. Really shines and stands out in loose powder on and off the trail compared to the stock, but is about the same on the harder packed groomed trails. Sweet, sounds perfect. I've found the trails that don't allow studs to be boring, no ditches you can use to bypass? Cement = straight = no fun, but I realize everyone else has their own opinion.

Make it objective, do a blind listen test on a few songs. Rip the song both ways. Keep them in separated folders. Re-rip the song back to full wav or whatever so they are the same size. Give the two folders to one of your friends. Have them keep track of what order they put the songs on the cd (256 320) and alternate randomly which one is first. Then he gives the disk to you and you guess. Take your time, use your stereo, your headphones, your truck and see. I think it will be enlightening. I probably should do this because one of the things I want to do now is get better at tuning. Problem is I would never be able to decide what song I would use. Use something you are familiar with, but make sure to bridge a few genre's. I'd also pick something that is recorded well otherwise I guarantee the most golden of golden ears couldn't pick up the difference. Worth trying something lowly at the same time like 192.

Make it objective, do a blind listen test on a few songs. Rip the song both ways. Keep them in separated folders. Re-rip the song back to full wav or whatever so they are the same size. Give the two folders to one of your friends. Have them keep track of what order they put the songs on the cd (256 320) and alternate randomly which one is first. Then he gives the disk to you and you guess. Take your time, use your stereo, your headphones, your truck and see. I think it will be enlightening.

*pukes* You mean it knocks down all dynamics. I am not at all familiar with it so my assumption may be poor, but I don't see how/why that would be of any benefit. Of course I also intrinsically believe that any compression algorithm does not alter amplitude with gain, but again am only going from a gut feel.

On my W505 a couple of my legit cds have no information. Another CD that I burnt with various artist has all the correct tags same with some of my shit. my cd player wont recognized album or track info but if i rip it and burn to a new disc it will.. Mine are all older than album art and have none, but all new ripping software grabs them automatically pretty much. I ripped everything with EAC to FLAC before the new shit was available.

A lack of parallel walls will have zero affect in the subbass. The purpose of non-parallel enclosure walls is to reduce standing waves within the enclosure. For subbass, this isn't going to be an issue to begin with as the dimensions of the enclosure are much shorter than the wavelengths of the sound waves, so standing waves are not going to develop. For subbass, I doubt there would be an audible difference between a well designed and braced MDF enclosure and some other exotic enclosure material. The resonant frequency of the panels is gong to be too high, and any losses from panel resonance/flexing is going to be too small compared to the driver output to audibly affect the sound. On a meter, I doubt you would see much of a difference either as long as the MDF enclosure was properly braced to begin with. Notice I explicitly stated I discussing affects in the subbass frequency range here. As we move up the frequency spectrum where the wavelengths are shorter and you are closer to the Fs of the enclosure panels, those issues can start to become problems (although there are far less exotic means of dealing with them). External panel shape can also affect frequency response in other ways in the higher frequency region....but that's neither here nor there. Like I said if it is that big of a concern. I gave two common methods for enclosure design that could be adopted for subwoofer enclosures if the builder feels enthusiastic. Replace the italics with "wasting time" and you are spot on. 2 main reasons. This is a sub and this is a car.

The speed of sound is a constant in your environment. You cannot speed up or slow down waves. You can shift their frequency though which is always bad. This is mostly realized when you have a speaker play a very large range of frequencies with high dynamics. In that case you can have what is called Doppler distortion which is caused by the cone moving heavily at a frequency and trying to play another at the same time. It gives you some frequency smearing and is part of the reason that audiophiles regularly prefer low xmax drivers.

YammySUCKStop

tis monday for me.... .......and I have a bottle of Crown Royal waiting at the end of it! Share??? Sure! Shure!

I have no problem renting a long track. Studs are extremely helpful on ice/hard shit. Hooks up better than ANY track. I've got a buddy with a 136 Yammie with >150hp and paddles and I kill him to 60. From there my ass is behind, but whatever where I ride that is what I want anyways. And I only have the lowly 600. Them Yammie triples got some wicked top end, everyone I ever rode was WAY to heavy for powder though. I rode an RX1000 when they came out and that thing was a boat anchor in powder. Even the Mountain max is heavy as shit. I am a fan of low and light weight. I haven't rode an IQ but have rode an RMK. Not a triple, but even worse. A four stroke Apex, lol. Thing steers like a fucking boat. I personally hate it. If you were fat, lazy, and NEVER left a groomed trail it would be fine. Have to be fat and lazy though as it sucks in the turns which is half the fun of the trails here.