///M5

bigfatnosnowtireTOP

I am curious to find out how the all season 295's do...which I should be able to later on today

If you read the thread, that is nearly exactly what we are recommending. You got a little lost in the details though. -no real midbass will play to 2500Hz, my favorite bang for the buck driver has a hard time hitting 300Hz which means you are compromising a bit in the driver. Nonetheless there are choices. -For systems with output as the goal, having the subs play higher is no big deal and beneficial as they are more efficient by default than anything else you can use based on cone area -ANY decent horn can play WAY below 2300Hz, some down under 1kHz even -Overlapping can be a terrible idea much more often than a good one. And no it will do the opposite from being "warmer or smoother" -RTA's really shouldn't be used EXCEPT for to find anomalies, definitely not for setting up your system. You should set it up for yourself and not for some computer -EQ in general should not be to satisfy your "wants" but to remove the anomalies. Your "wants" should be solved in your installation. -Flat sounds like ass, always -You should generically speaking never use an eq to "move up from there" but to pull things down. EQ's are for making cuts, not boost. -I would say several weeks, not hours or days. The recommendation of using a midbass or better yet a dynamically capable midrange and a horn is the ONLY solution for getting loud, maintaining a stage, and still sounding good. Multiple drivers playing high frequencies is always a bad idea and a hell of a compromise in the wrong direction. quoted You know I said the truck would stage... but I NEVER said WELL ... wtf bro ?? I would NEVER put that system in competition. So far I've read is adding horns under the dash ... nothing about driver positioning ... how is this going to help your stage ?? What do you mean by stage but not very well, that makes absolutely no sense...unless you have a seriously jacked definition of stage. The horns will help significantly for a multitude of reason. A L/R point source will ALWAYS be easier to make cohesive than multiple point sources, the horns even under the dash will be as high if not higher than the tweets in the current door, and they can actually be aimed. Basically nearly every aspect of staging will be improved over what he has currently. again, best of luck with your system bro ... Thanks, Randal .......... And again, your suggestion won't have the dynamic capability that the OP wants. One normal tweet on each side will NOT "keep up" with his subs at all. Rudimentary understanding of sensitivity and power ratings will tell you that. He will definitely still need processing AND your off axis recommendation is not good either. We already went over this though. It won't.

Buy some snow tires and you'll be fine. My brother has a Lincoln LS (same chassis as the Mustang), and he prefers driving that in the snow over his old 4wd Explorer. A car with the proper rubber is a huge difference. YES

The older ones are terrible in the snow.

You'll get volume and height out of that, but miss out on the rest

I know they have nothing to do with this particular thread, but the Sony Ericsson's definitely can handle their 5-8MP ratings well enough to be considered a good option for not carrying around a digital camera for random events.... Other than that, you are correct for the most part... But I honestly don't buy a phone hoping to use the camera at all, I am only smiley when I was in a pinch and needed to use it.. You have never used a real camera obviously. Considering the Sony 14.2mp alpha350 can only resolve what the Canon 12mp 450d can I would expect things to scale to their lower end units. Add to that you are going from HUGE DLSR optics to dinky, cheap, disposable cell phone optics I am sure that their ratings are still a joke. I am not saying that they can't take a reasonable picture and perhaps even a great one for viewing on its OWN screen, but it is not a replacement for a camera by any means. At least not if you ever want to print anything which to me is exactly the purpose of the camera. edit: And no, the Canon can't resolve all of its pixels either. BTW, MP in cameras have stopped being a buying reason years ago.

Personally then I'd wait for a replacement. There will be one in a month or so I am sure as phones are popping out like crazy atm. After typing on both the keyboard and screen I am super glad I have it. WAY faster and yes I am sure it will stay that way after getting even more used to it.

Funny looking squirrels you caught there.

Always loved those and if it weren't for the original SHO would have owned one or two myself.

What he meant:

Why not the Droid 2 Global, better phone than either IMO. Or you could wait for the HTC Lexicon/Merge which should be out anyday. Of course I am biased and went through this last week and chose that phone realizing I could swap within 30 days for the HTC if I prefer. BTW, the 8m pixel camera is a joke. No phone has a lens that can resolve anywhere near that amount. Hell ALL phone camera's suck as their optics are a joke.

You are in over a lot of peoples heads on this board...but in a good way As with any setup that is really custom buying a single driver and listening isn't a terrible idea. Just make sure to enclose it properly. The 4" maybe small enough to run sealed instead of IB/AP. Normally I don't recommend that in a car, but considering the frequency range it isn't a bad idea like usual.

wow you guys got a hell of alot more then here so far, only about 2inch or so here. We've had over 20" at my house already

I have been using the (Animal) DC-28 for 7 years. I have replaced the beater bar once and clean it every 5 or 6 months. Still working great. Also I have 2 dogs and a cat. No complaints and yes I have used some very nice machines in the past, filter queen, hoover, and rainbow (amway) to name a couple. Cool. Good to hear. We have no animals and they have the next step down but I figure more suck is better in one thing and that is a vacuum.

Weddings are a great place to get laid.

Translation: Titanium, CSS or Underhung if you have the budget

Hard to pick among the TangBand's. I would expect the Titanium to be the easiest to integrate as you can just roll the top end off rather aggressively. The Poly cone is cheaper, the underhung will dig deeper and blend really easily, the Bamboo I'd probably pick the Poly over for in car but will add I haven't heard either. I have only heard the Titanium which was impressive, but the others are supposed to be good as well. The CSS is a driver I also haven't heard or used, but have read reviews on it from people whom I know compared it to good drivers and they really liked it. As for the tweeter. I know they are cheap, but for what you need I'd spend as much of my budget on the mids. They are also really effective tweeters. You know they have to be otherwise Zaph wouldn't have used them in his ZDT3.5's. If you go that route, your choice is metal or cloth. If you are a metal guy, grab the Aura, if you aren't grab the textile Dayton (pick the format that is easier for you to mount ). Or hell, buy one of each and let your ears decide. They are cheap Either way, I'd integrate the midrange & midbass first. Try and get as much "sparkle" as you can out of the mid without it breaking up and then decide how much tweet you need based on the frequency you can handle the mid playing up to. The goal is to get as much of the acoustic spectra coming out of that one driver. This will make the blending of the other two drivers really easy.

Not without a significant amount of processing......more processing than most processors are capable of. And even then, with the spacing of the mids just in that picture (I don't know what the rest of the setup looks like, if there is anything else) there are going to be some serious limitations and disadvantages to that setup if one were trying to do anything other than get loud with it. This is the truck cableguy was talking about staging well. ROFL. That is absurd and won't work for shit. Breaks about every basic rule in speaker building. Plus what sort of pansy builds an exposed panel for crappy crossovers, those don't have ANY components in them worth showing off. Complete crap.

Nicely put. I would stress the fact that if these weren't truly A/B tested BLINDLY then I'd really chock it up to pyschoacoustics. One other thing Brad left out that pops up in my mind. It is possible for the particular track that the low frequency information was stressing the driver with the low tuning causing other anomalies higher up in the response. Once the tuning was raised this could have gone away. Acoustic masking is a bitch as well, plenty of different ways that could rear its head and have you notice/not notice things with very minor changes.

LOL, that is a short port for such a small box....you liking to huff?

CCF and MDF sandwich. Put the CCF on the wall and bolt some MDF to it. The crapton of deadening recommendation is terrible...

I think the Dyson is a joke (price performance) but assume it is just as good as the next vac that is half the price. Considering it is bagless and free to me I figure its a yes. Amusingly we have a maid so I could force her to use our old one, but actually want the floor to be clean.

I think I'll stick with Kirby, Rainbow or Oreck myself I hated the oreck momma had when I was younger. I love my electrolux though. I might be getting a Dyson animal, but only because I'll get it free with Holiday Inn points

Aura NT1 or Dayton ND20 will mate with a driver that can play high and are great little tweeters