///M5

In keeping this on topic to the thread, simply I wouldn't bother with T/A until I changed out the drivers completely. So what you are saying here is that Drew has shitty components and needs to be replaced, And the most dedicated moderator in SSA refuses to give advice on a proper install with what the op has to work with ??? I never said that. Please read for once without emotion. The thread was about T/A, you asked what I would do in his shoes, I simply answered that I wouldn't bother with T/A. Why are you so fricking bitter? I was only trying to help out the op and things were going great, and instead of discussing the differences like Impious did. you acused me of not knowing what I was doing. I just gave suggestions, thats all. If I was wrong on anything, lets discuss it so maybe we all can learn something in stead of pointing out the stuff we don't know ... When are you going to learn that misinforming someone of something is NOT helping. If you'd just drop it when someone clarifies what you say is wrong instead of getting defensive this wouldn't be a problem. And you know I am more than willing to help Drew, but again I don't have the full picture of what he is willing to do and his needs. I asked a while ago and have gotten no response... Now you are getting somewhere, however that is going to mean changing ALL of your front stage...unless of course you give us more of an insight as to what "decent staging" is to you. My definition says there is not way in hell with your doors as they are you are even getting close. No electronics can solve that many issues.

In keeping this on topic to the thread, simply I wouldn't bother with T/A until I changed out the drivers completely. So what you are saying here is that Drew has shitty components and needs to be replaced, And the most dedicated moderator in SSA refuses to give advice on a proper install with what the op has to work with ??? I never said that. Please read for once without emotion. The thread was about T/A, you asked what I would do in his shoes, I simply answered that I wouldn't bother with T/A. Why are you so fricking bitter?

The typical digital thermometer are fairly inaccurate and need to be calibrated every so often, I love/prefer thermocouples.

Its pretty much convection which means nearly equal everywhere, plus heat rises and there is only one way out. Yes, I know there are variations but not sure what as I haven't bothered to measure. I do know that I could peg my gauge easily and mine only goes to 700 or 750 as well. Hell I got it so hot that the glass shattered and it doesn't work now anyways

In keeping this on topic to the thread, simply I wouldn't bother with T/A until I changed out the drivers completely. Wow, imagine that ANOTHER subjective commentary. Stop with the effing nonsense. Are you so little of a man you have to walk around and point out what compliments people give you? It thoroughly amuses me and not in a pleasant way. Keep subscribing to your golden ear and snake oil theories, fine with me. Not sure what this has to do with T/A since you've stated before you aren't using it as well....

Wow. Do you sit there any stare at your speakers, or even the parameters as the other so called audiophiles on this forum or do you properly install them and listen to them as they were intended? I personally like to listen to my speakers, and could care less what they look like. When was the last time you could hear a speaker by looking at it? When is there been ANYTIME that a speaker has been measured and performed differently than the measurements showed it would perform?? Go ahead and use your "golden ears" and listen away. What you hear and what you get can be very easily quantified by measurements, but you wouldn't like the results. Either way, stop pulling an Ultra. Either measure the damn driver, explain its technological advancements or just don't say anything as saying you use your ears just shows how bad your hearing is.

Yes, stop with the random questions and instead make them SPECIFIC to what you have. You will get MUCH better information as it is easy to see you have been VERY misled in the past.

The rating consists of a set of parameters that require that you understand your box, your amp, your signal, and your environment. NO OTHER RATING is anything but a joke.

T-mobile coverage blows. No worries. Had a simple question, but it no longer is anything to worry about. Shit, I had a complex answer

It isn't just the woofer, but to simplify it is the box, the environment and what you send it for a signal. All of which are VERY easy to model.

Where do you get larger amplitude from? Amplitude = excursion and is UNRELATED to cone size.

What do you mean by Max Bang and SQ Sub?? I am confused.

ALL "rules of thumb" suck. None of them are right. However, that does not mean that you won't need more port area. The larger the box, the more output at low frequencies for a specific power and along with it more air flowing through the port. There is a HUGE difference in air velocity (same port size) when you make a box larger. If you had ever spent even 2 seconds in a box modeling program you'd see that first hand.

It is the free air resonance of the subwoofer. Has NOTHING to do with bottoming out. As for why it is lower on larger, generically speaking all "larger" structures have lower resonant frequencies if nothing else changes. Rudimentary physics.

First of all that isn't a sentence, second it isn't coherent and third I am not really sure what you are even trying to say but will try to clear this up. Less tight? How, why, what would make you think that? Think of a driver with the same motor on a 12 and 15, now what's the difference? Reverberate? Are you trying to imply their is constructive interference at sub frequencies? Look up what the length of a sound wave is at 50Hz and now tell me how that applies to anything.

Aaron, got your message hopefully my SMS came through. Was at the inlaws farm where coverage with T-shit-mobile sucks. By Tuesday I should be on Verizon though so that will get better. Will try you tomorrow

so generally speaking say if lets use the q they are both in their recommended ported enlcosures in size but both enclosures are tuned to 35hz will the 15 reproduce the lower frequencies at a higher volume and why? Stop linking two questions together. Yes, a 15 CAN play louder than a 12. As stated above CONE AREA will be the advantage assuming everything else is the same. No, a 15 cannot play notes any lower or differently than that 12. There is an old wives tale that states that larger drivers play lower but they are all wrong. Modern drivers have no issues playing as they were designed. Some are designed to play low and others not, some flat and others peaky, some sealed and some ported, etc... There are no rules of thumb and the one you are implying exists is terribly wrong.

ive got the 2000 grand prix gtp since both of our cars are supercharged be careful about what alt and battery you get remember that our motor requires alot of cranking amps to run correctly (mine is the 3800 series 2 motor) you dont want your overdrive to cut in and out when you give it some gas as far as the subs id go with the 4 ssd's over the 15's the 12's will have alot more output and as far as response (15's dont have better response than 12's thats horse sh!t lol) trust me i know your car very well and know what different setups sound like in it ive had 1 12, 2 12's, 3 12's, 1 15, 2 15's and 2 fosgate 18's the bigger speakers have lower bass but most music is produced on a 80hz average anyway go with the 12's lol The average sub stage is going to be playing ~28hz to 70hz and upwards 80hz. Saying bigger speakers have lower bass is bullshit. The size of the cone does not effect the drivers ability to play one frequency verse another, it does however effect output / loudness of the material being played. bigger speakers have lower bass because they can play the lower frequencies louder lol thats why for 15's you set your crossover to 50hz and 12's to 80hz and your wrong the average sub will not be playing 28hz to 70 hz that all depends on the sub, size, and enclosure I said sub stage, referring to the driver and enclosure. I stated 28hz as some like to tune low although most tune around the low 30s. Crossing over is also preference based, some cross at 70ish and others go up to 80. Just depends on the person and the rest of their sound system. Your statement about different size drivers playing different frequencies louder is completely wrong. I won't argue anymore with you as I'm just beating the shit out of a dead horse and it's not waking up. lol name one speaker that has an fs of 27hz that isnt bottoming out lol the 18" n2 btl has an fs of 34hz lol if i am some where wrong correct me and prove it so my opinion may be changed in the right directing because i am not getting what you are talking about Your analogies are terrible and show a heck of a lot of confusion. Size of driver has NOTHING to do with whether it can play low or high notes. Hell half of the drivers you might look at share motors between sizes which means what you get generically from upping the cone size is more cone area. Pretty obvious.... As for a speaker that has an FS of below 27Hz? Tons of them. Try looking at nearly any home audio sub. You also asked about your goals. There are three links in my signature for noobs. Read them all and then you'll know what you left out.

Why would you buy the AA's if you NEED sealed. Also, no one can comment without knowing what sealed volume...then of course we don't know the transfer function of your vehicle so even then it is a crap shoot. Generically speaking a bad idea although when applied with intelligence it can be a win. I'd choose a different mid though. And as for the Xover it also is vehicle, driver and preference specific so no one will be able to help with that unless they are sitting in your car.

Crap At least you know the culprit.

While I love the length the barrel smokers offer (great for packer briskets), a BGE XL is definitely in my future; especially with a good controller and a few accessories I'm too lazy to look so Sean, which controller did you get again? Stoker? Guru? Also, do they make one that can get up to 500F? (not a requirement, just curious) Stoker, 450F No need for 500F because IMO you either want low & slow or hot. If it is hot you just don't connect the temp probe and the fan stays on. When I did that to "break-in" my new gasket I managed to melt part of the gasket. The Cotronics gasket material I have melts at >1750F so hot it gets!

Heavy wok is bad. About the only hot cooking pan I'd ever say that about. Most important for wok'ing is a burner, not the pan. A $14 pan is fine, and even a $50 burner, although it will have > 100k btu's.

Dead link

I assume you found them already...

And that is an asinine statement. On axis, off axis and aiming are all very install and driver dependent. Knowing nothing about either means you cannot comment. Of course you are running poor car audio drivers that are compromised to perform (or at least they should be if not, ouch) off axis. Don't draw your conclusions from what you have... At what point in this entire thread, let alone this post, did I say ANYTHING about my vehicle ??? Drew is running RD drivers. This has NOTHING to do with anything that is in my vehicle ... At what point in this thread did I reccomend ANY product, let alone the drivers that I run, to Drew in this thread ??? I apologise to SSA and Drew (bassahaulic) for ranting on this, But M5///, you were way out of line here ... Randall, my response was rebutting your comment to recommending OFF AXIS which is generally a terrible idea without knowledge. You referenced your tastes which infer your vehicle. I also know that you have "car audio" drivers in your vehicle which SHOULD be designed differently than home audio causing you to lean that way. A rudimentary understanding of speakers would help you here. And where do you see that I said that you recommended any drivers? Only one out of line is the one giving TERRIBLE advice of recommending putting things always off axis. Perhaps before getting defensive you should actually read what you typed.