///M5

Why is the Prime Minister buying you lunch? I am the fastest man through the chunnel. That word always hints to me of projectile vomit. Derivation of the word chunder in a cylindrical form.

Test your coils & the voltage output of your amp.

So are you saying they used to play fine and now aren't? Or did they never?

You misunderstood my response and the other thread completely. ALL component sets will cover the audible frequency range. In the thread where this came up the discussion was not finding a comp set to do it but a single midrange that was ultra efficient. From your post I do not understand your goals. And perhaps a better couple of questions for you to answer anyways are what have YOU heard that you like? Why not buy those?

Ha, that is far from a trival question and there is no one answer. It will always depend on your ears, your car, your mounting locations, installation skills and so on. The one thing that would be easy for me to answer is the processing. Personally the Alpine H701 with a touchscreen is the only way I'd attempt a three way like this. There are plenty of other options but having control right at the drivers seat is exactly what I'd want.

You misunderstood this jake. Basically don't bother buying one unless you have something more useful to use it for.

Speaking of which I finally used the UniSaw this weekend for something useful.

No worries Hopefully it helps you, them and the forum.

Congrats

Since you seem so sure perhaps you should give us a dissertation on how hearing response is related to hearing damage....or spend sometime looking and then you will realize how absurd and inappropriate your conclusion is. Flat out wrong in fact. 150db even at 50Hz is very damaging. Hearing you NEVER get back either. Sean by no means did I say it was not bad, SPL at those levels will never be good for hearing, but there is a big difference in the damage caused to the ear by 150 decibels at sub-bass frequencies vs. mid frequencies that our ears are the most sensitive to. Again, you aren't thinking or reading what I typed. Answer this VERY simple question. What is the correlation between sensitivity and damage causing potential? Once you research that you will understand how flawed your logic is.

Or a simple bad ground. Sounds like a bolt in place install which IS a problem. Don't blame the speakers, you put them in an environment where nothing can excel. Take some time and build a baffle, beef up your door, deaden some resonances and they will come to life. At the same time pull a fresh ground to your headunit and make sure all the other grounds are clean and secure. That should address your hum. The pico fuse isn't really that common, but depending on how you handled your install it could be the case.

As Brad stated you could use 200w+ it doesn't matter, just use the gain knob for its actual purpose. Headroom is never your enemy. Go ahead and run Sundown. As for where to cross them? The lower you go, the more vocals you will get out of them and have to rely less on other drivers. Considering nothing else is near the sensitivity that is your goal. Of course you go too low and you will blow them so you can either be conservative, use your ears and REALLY listen, or just set them high and have no concerns.

Since you seem so sure perhaps you should give us a dissertation on how hearing response is related to hearing damage....or spend sometime looking and then you will realize how absurd and inappropriate your conclusion is. Flat out wrong in fact. 150db even at 50Hz is very damaging. Hearing you NEVER get back either.

Not at all. The whole idea of mounting to the door card is TERRIBLE. You need to mount them to the metal part of the door to a robust baffle.

That should be easy. Nothing special about the IDMax but its price tag. Don't throw money away!

The first half of your question is too open. As with any topic, stating your goals is much better than anything else as everything is based on compromises and there is no golden setup. The second portion is fine, but severely limited by the $350. To put it in perspective I would argue you should balance your spending. IE spend the same on the front stage and your sub setup, or at least similar money. That being said getting 150dB out of your front stage for $350 isn't going to happen, but it won't out of your subs either. The other problem I have with your question is that you asked me what I would do. Even if my goal was an SPL setup I'd still focus on the front stage. So a more generic answer is that I'd put a few midbass drivers in the front, one pro audio midrange per side and some horns. Obviously I killed your budget by 2x in the processing alone, but it is what I would do. The next question is if I were budget limited what would I cut first? The ultra high and ultra low frequencies. Again the focus should be on the portion of the frequency range that you are interested in listening to. Jazz at 150dB makes no sense btw. If you want me to rank what I'd give up first, no problem. I'd yank the midbasses and have my subs fill in as they are more efficient at it anyways. Next I'd cut the horns. Using a normal tweeter at a significantly higher pass than 2x Fs will allow it to do more as long as one is chosen with some thermal capabilities. (ie, cross it really high and let the mid do the work to save it) My other problem is that I'd also want it to stage. Just making noise is sort of like declaring you have a small pecker to me. If it doesn't sound good and is only good for showing off then really what made you want to do it? Obviously if ALL OUT competition is your goal then winning should be the priority above all else, but if it is for something for you to drive around and listen to then you should really step back and TRULY evaluate your goals. That is always the first step in making any plan, and not just for car audio but for life. Probably the single biggest difference between successful people and non-successful ones. Using your car stereo as a learning mechanism for this isn't a bad idea Oh and I would NEVER have two comp sets in any vehicle. I made that mistake once and put a second set in the rear, but dang was that a waste of money.

NO!!! Damian is a nice guy and clever with tools, but his initial version of that setup had me baffled from the get go. Complete defeats the purpose. Mount them to the doors via a baffle, not the super cheap GM plasti-crap.

Of the delorean or the chassis?? oh that's right both

Did you ever try the teething pills? I've been meaning to re-ask what they were. He is just starting to react and now I really have to. The last time it went away right when I was going to and I know myself, if I don't go do it right away. I'll forget. Help?

Horns will cover only the upper register and harmonics of the voices and you'll need to pair them with something serious on the bottom end. You do cite one thing that isn't really right and that is that your mid will take care of your midbass. Of course in my vehicles it will, but I exclusively care about accurate reproduction and only to reference levels, not killing my hearing. In the case of efficient mids they rarely can play low enough to cover any midbass. Many can't even cover the whole midrange, but of course that is a bit of a subjective definition but I base mine on something very simple and that is the required frequencies of the instruments/vocals I am listening to. I listen to jazz so you can figure out what that definition translates into rather easily, but again why bother. For the case of the OP, I'd change it to the male vocal range with some adaptations.

Been more than a week for me since any has touched my lips. :shocked: I don't remember a serious bender anytime in the recent past either. Definitely a few bottle of wine nights but nothing ridiculous

And one "just to play with" is always a bad idea.

hopefully not butt crack

Goodluck!! I hope you can drop the general crap.