///M5

Dallas didnt 'let' the Vikes win.........Dallas is a shit team. J I don't disagree they are shit, but the Vikes aren't exactly living up to ANY expectations.

Don't you live in Texas? Definitely not NM where that is the case. There are 2 types of chili I know of. Hot dog chili - no tomatoes Eatin' Chili - Always has tomatoes Coney Island Sauce has no tomatoes nor beans. Regularly ketchup or tomato juice though. More like Sloppy Joes

No problem, but I have the dry blade setup as well.

VikesTOP

I love it. Dallas let us win Chicago's offensive line looks worse than ours GB has NO running game, and lost their best receiver in Finley Detroit sucks We stand a fucking chance!!

Lada?

Don't you live in Texas? Definitely not NM where that is the case. I do, but I'm still a traditionalist when it comes to chili; I have a handful of chili recipes that came from some San Antonio chili queens, and another handful of chili recipes from pre-WWII Mexican restaurants, all of which contain zero tomatoes. Funny, I would have thought you would have argued no beans more than no tomatoes. Obviously a lot of regional variants, but nonetheless what they all should have in common is NO Chili Powder. That stuff is god awful. Chili Powder = Ew Chile Powder = Yummy Beans seem to be somewhat common in the traditional recipes I have, actually Agreed on the chile powder

I like the FR88's on the dash, I like the SLS in the doors (experience with 8's, but can read plots on the 6.5's) and considering what you have for processing there are definitely things you can do to hugely improve it. I would also state that going 3 way in the long run will probably sound worse as it is much harder to setup properly. If you aren't savy with 2 ways I would never recommend a 3. The 99rs is nice, but it is a hell of a lot of money for something which you may never use feature wise. Obviously if you "need" a 3 way front the story may change, but from what I have read so far that would be quite a leap. Perhaps you should start with an 880 that is used or something to nail down what you have and see if you need to go that far.

Don't you live in Texas? Definitely not NM where that is the case. I do, but I'm still a traditionalist when it comes to chili; I have a handful of chili recipes that came from some San Antonio chili queens, and another handful of chili recipes from pre-WWII Mexican restaurants, all of which contain zero tomatoes. Funny, I would have thought you would have argued no beans more than no tomatoes. Obviously a lot of regional variants, but nonetheless what they all should have in common is NO Chili Powder. That stuff is god awful.

The FR88 can easily have a nice top end, but you have nothing in your system to tame any anomalies that exist. Perhaps this is why you stated strained, not at all what I'd describe it as and the raggedness is not so difficult to deal with. In fact I'd guarantee that dash reflections and your environment are a lot harsher than the natural frequency response of the driver in that range. Had you said it was muted perhaps I'd agree with adding something on top, but until you solve the woes that its current aiming/processing is guaranteeing you'll have it is hard to make that comment. Obviously a tweeter, including the DC28 won't have those concerns to eq out and will be easier to deal with for that matter. It may roll off harder to, but of course our ears are so insensitive to that it may not matter. The distortion on the DC28 is significantly worse than the Fountek as well. To my ears it would be a step down and you'd forego midbass by getting a driver that can play high enough to marry with it. If you truly want to do a 3 way, then you should start planning your mounting locations and processing before buying any drivers. If you haven't opened the DC28's I might send them back without even listening to them. PE probably would take them back even if opened, but you don't stand to gain anything...unless you are never buying a processor in which case a simple tweeter and paper coned mid would be your best choice.

No one has said the BTL will be the best for his goals. I just refuted others claims on it as a driver. The OP hasn't defined his goals INCLUDING budget. Considering there hasn't been one it doesn't come into play. Just because you don't need to spend the money doesn't mean it isn't right for you to do so.

??

5x7's what are they for? The SLS and FR88 is ALL you should be running that is not your sub. Midbasses will be confusing to listen to on their own, but you cannot make decisions on their capabilities by muddying them up with any other drivers. I will add it is very hard to do this by getting out of the car, making a change and then listening again. The phase change on the FR's should have made a significant difference. You are just changing one and not the other right? The Dayton 28 is an okay tweeter, but it is only a $10 tweeter. I personally prefer to spend a bit more on mine. It also won't play nice with either the FR88 as ultra top end is not its thing and it won't play low enough to mix with the Peerless. The $5 ND20 would work better for your application....assuming you are using this for a 3 way since you cannot use it for a 2 way. I'll also add that for a 3way you will NEED processing outside of the amplifiers. It helps a crap ton with the 2 way even. I would find it very weird to listen to a stage that was centered in my position in a car. The combination or aural and spatial cues wouldn't make me happy. That being said I don't want it centered in car either. Somewhere in between is my preference. You can have yours, but right in front of you will be most easily achieved if you move the right drivers a bit closer... Otherwise you are going to have too much processing to fix the stage which will then detract from the FR of the stereo.

The BTL is more efficient, it WILL be more loud than any other woofer from Fi. They don't have a "prime" wattage rating either, the ratings are the maximum recommended power applied given the thermal and mechanical handling built into the woofer. I know that. Given the proper wattage and set up the BTL WILL be louder. Which is what I stated above. You need more power to move the assembly of the BTL as compared to the smaller and softer spider pack of the Q. Well maybe not softer but less spiders means less mass in the assembly. I have both. I compare both... in my setup.. which is not ideal but given the same wattage the Q moves more. A decibel or 2 is negligible therefore its redundant to say (A) is louder than (B). Not my opinion.. just fact. I need a 3500 and then i'll give you an honest review as how loud the BTL will get.Prime may not be the correct word. Ideal is. It has to be ideal in the situation and set up of the system. FI is conservative in their ratings due to additional options available. What they put on their site is ideal. It can handle more or less. Again... system and set up dependent. NO. In an optimal box with ANY amount of power, the BTL will ALWAYS be louder than the Q. You DO NOT NEED "proper wattage". That is asinine. Your ideal comment is a joke as well. What is even funnier here is that I am NOT recommending that the OP buy a BTL, I am just making sure that the misinformation that is being puked in this thread is refuted. So 0-55 isn't fun in a Ferrari? You always drive all your cars only in one specific way? You have a particular vehicle for when you want to go fast, one for off road, and one for 55mph use? Is it more expensive to have three cars or to compromise and pick the one that fills the BIGGEST need you have first. Your analogy isn't helping you. If the Q is perfect,the BTL would still be louder. If the goal is louder how "perfect" is the Q when it isn't as loud. WHO cares about living up to 'its' potential. To use your dumb analogy that would be like buying a Ferrari and only driving around at over 150mph because anything less isn't near its potential. You also don't understand how drivers are engineered. There is NO prime "wattage range" that subs are designed to perform in, if they are it is a pretty shitty sub as most are designed to be mostly linear no matter what power. Otherwise when you have a quiet note in music compared to a loud note it would sound like shit since it wasn't designed to do that. Conveniently in speaker topologies that in particular would be hard to do and hard to screw up. So no, there is absolutely no prime wattage anything is designed for. Neither of you obviously understand driver basics and you really shouldn't go on misleading posters. The OP here is probably really confused here now and understandably so; however, that too would be easy to solve. A quick read through the noob posting guidelines would allow the thread to actually move towards what he needs. As a quick review, removing the terms SPL and SQ would REALLY help us understand if they were expressed in a method that wasn't based on subjective interpretation of terms.

Interesting marketing there. Not sure why that would be needed at all. Anything you add to the signal chain can cause noise. Less is more sometimes.

Don't you live in Texas? Definitely not NM where that is the case.

Ah, agree although I like to want to eat what I watch them make so that I'll make it

Not my idea of the best food show, but I like to try to learn stuff.

Smoked a couple pork butts today for the game. Still sort of surprised we won.

Trying to achieve something with the drivers you have and no processing power is going to be tough. Both your enclosures seem small for the drivers you have, but I haven't modelled them to verify. Are you still just trying to aim the FR's? That is step one. Play with the phase between them as well and keep the SLS and your sub off while you do this. Find the limits of where the drivers and crossover wise and keep them happy before doing the aiming. Don't do it at ridiculous levels either. After you have that nailed then do the SLS on their own, then start mixing together. Be careful of what you call center and what you want for center. To truly steer it you will need independent L/R eq. As an aside, I don't like my center in the center of the car.

Pretty simple actually, if your goal was truly loudness and to buy Fi that would be your loudest choice off 1000w that they make. Do you run at full volume all day all the time? 2/3, 1/2? Get my point. Who cares how much power you put on a driver if it does what you want it to. If for what you have it is the best driver from the manufacturer how could it be wrong? *again with the goal of loud You'd be surprised. Could go either way, will ALL depend on the install.

Started to answer. We had company all day. Some questions for you. I've never used a recipe for chili and change it up everytime so steering me in what you would like would help

If it was indeed ELNA it should be at least half decent. That one can be used to test if only the cap is at fault. I wouldn't drop $12 to find out though...actually I probably would. Time/money not doing it twice may be worth spending an extra $10

Do you just need a replacement? This should work for a test cap, it is a piece of crap but I'd bet the one that was in there is as well. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=020-1306&scqty=1

Congrats Neal!