///M5

A couple clarifications. 1) The T/S parameters are not wrong, you are using the software wrong. 2) NEVER EVER use a recommended enclosure in ANY software package, in particular if all you have put in are the T/S parameters. That only is a small piece of the puzzle, not the complete picture and it will lead you down a very wrong path. 3) Considering both 1 & 2 alluded you, you really, really, really, really, really should just build to Fi recommended specifications.

And of course as long as the amplifier is bridgeable in the first place. *caveat to Nick's comment, some 4chn amps are stable bridged at 2ohms but you'd have to have a really nice old school piece for that to be the case or something extremely unusual. Most likely he is dead nuts right.

Happy Birthday!!

Just put some "volume compensaters" in the box. 2x4's or anything you have lying around would work fine.

That's a lot easier said than done. I'm not aware of a single shop around here that has a decent set of components. Sure, some areas are different but I'm willing to bet that most local shops wont carry decent components. I'm very happy with the set of RF components I have. Got them for like $80, free shipping, and for the price I can't complain. I mistakenly ordered the set with the integrated crossovers though. Seriously? You live in San Antonio, there are plenty of options for you. Buying speakers without listening to them first is not a good idea. They are more personal than how shoes or pants fit so just picking some arbitrary set someone else likes won't get you very far.

If you truly care about SQ you wouldn't be asking us about your sub and its box, but your front stage. Ported is what you really want.

And for taking a cream pie in the puss.

And no, it has NOTHING to do with the size of the woofer.

And that has nothing to do with either box. You are a ported listener which is real obvious just from your screen name alone If you haven't liked a ported enclosure before it was because it was built poorly. Which then brings us to the ONLY generalization that holds that somewhat answers your question. A shitty ported box will sound worse than a shitty sealed box for the Q.

Note to self, don't pour booze on a hot fire. LOL. Glad you are okay.

If they put the V10 diesel in it, I want one.

You burn your lips too? Did you forget to burp the egg or what happeneD?

Hope its better than my piece of shit

I don't think it sounds promising, not sure if I can check as I don't have anything hooked up to the internal amp and I'm using its active capabilities. What I think you'd have to do is hook up the interior to the front rcas or the front internal amp outputs and the outside speakers to the rear outputs and then use the front to rear fade option in the deck I should ask this more simply. Any idea if setting the output level for each RCA channel also affects the internal amplifier? If not, I'm golden. BTW, the crossovers DO function on the internal channels. All I want is one more way to balance them besides the amplifier gain. If it were my boat, I'd just use the amp gain, but that would mean you can't turn it up as much once the amp is on versus it being off and that will spell disaster on my sisters boat. For me it'd be no issue. I can't just use the fronts to power 4 speakers and won't be adding another amp. If this doesn't work I'll put in a four pole switch to kill the four built-ins when the amplified channels are running.

I love my 15 but obviously it doesnt get as low. I am for once satisfied. Down the road I plan on getting another. Sure it gets just as 'low'.. The frequency response is nearly identical..fresh subs have to break in as well. If you want it to get "low" tune the box lower. yeah, it sounds good tho. im happy with it. i hope when it breaks in it will get a little lower. Again, low is a function of the box and unrelated to driver size. If you want it lower, build a different box.

125Hz is WAY too high IMO.

Ignore the Imprint junk and do it yourself and you are golden.

Anyone here have an 880/800 that could check something for me? Mine is in the basement, and I don't feel like powering it up so a no is okay. Curious if I can change the output level of the RCA's without affecting the internal amplifier. **Want to use the internal amplifier to output to four speakers in my sisters boat. The RCA output to an amplifier for the main two speakers. ***Considering the 880 will cross over the internal amplifier and rca's at the same time what I'd like to do is turn up the output for the amplified speakers and down the internal ones. This would allow cruising with just the main four speakers and bumping with all the above once parked and not having the 4 then scream.

Or "build" your own. Bass blockers are just that, nominal generic crossovers. Just measure your impedance and pick your own crossover frequency and build a simple 2nd filter. Will cost less (depending on components) and work exactly as it is supposed to. In a car I am generally an active fan, but building a quick filter when you have no other choice seems logical.

Good luck Matt, i just managed to get a bit sunburn which is unusual since I don't ever burn. First day with no shirt and 95 degrees, sunny, and by a huge reflector (lake) might have made that happen though.

WOW that thing is old! Maybe a gift from long ago? It's what I camped in as a child.

Deck >> off board proc exclusively in that you have control at the headunit. One bit of warning, without a real bit of tuning expect the active to sound worse than passive the first go around. It takes some time to dial it in.

Tent is from 1977 Of course the damn zipper worked this morning. Oh well, fuck it. I am going out on the boat and gettin' drunk.

Now I have to go back and pickup the tent.

Camping almost would have fared fine, but at 1 in the morning the zipper in my tent failed and with the mosquitoes we weren't going to sleep in it. Had to drive home